Here is the basic outline of the process of converting to wvo/svo.

I try to update it yearly.
For a continually updated version go HERE

If you have basic questions please ask them IN THIS DISCUSSION And I will try to answer them as quickly as possible. The questions and answers will then be archived and indexed so others with these same questions can find them easily.

PLEASE CONSIDER THIS THREAD CLOSED TO DISCUSSION SO NOT TO CLUTTER IT UP. If you want to discuss an item in this thread please go to the 10 steps "discussion" post HERE. This will help reduce confusion for newbies who review this thead. If you responded above already please help clean up this thread buy deleting your post.
Thanks,
Dana
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Some commonly used abbreviations whose meanings may not be readily apparrent to "newbies" are included. For a list and discussion of these go to this post.
-----------------------------------------
Steps to conversion.
1.Determine if you have a ready and affordable supply of vegoil available.

2.Secure that source.

3.Determine what configuration is most appropriate for your vehicle, climate, and budget and which components will be required.

4.Decide if you want to make all or some of your own components and then install them...or buy the components as a "kit".

5.Make or purchase a prefilter/dewatering unit if your vegoil source is WVO..

6.Determine if you are capable of making your own components. If in doubt reconsider your decision in step.

7.Order your kit or gather your parts/materials.

8.Fabricate your components and preassemble the conversion, marking connections.

9.Install your vegoil conversion.

10.Test your vegoil conversion.
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Finding a diesel vehicle is part of step 3 for those that do not already have one.
Here is a discussion with links to help you.

Steps 1 and 2.
Determine if you have a ready and affordable supply of vegoil available and secure that source.


If you don't have a ready supply available you probably do NOT want to convert to vegoil.
Usually the most "available" (read as inexpensive) vegoil is wvo(waste vegoil) so this is the option I usually recommend investigating first. You cannot simply TAKE wvo from the dumpsters sitting behind restaurants. It usually BELONGS to somebody else. In most cases wvo in a dumpster BELONGS to the rendering/grease disposal company that owns the dumpster. Removing wvo from these dumpsters is THEFT unless you have permission..and often the restaurant owner/manager may not have a clue that the contract with the grease disposal company takes fulllegal ownership of "grease" once it is poured into their dumpster. Having "permission" from a restaurant that does not legally own the wvo will not be a defense if you are caught and prosecuted/sued by the grease hauler whose dumpster you are removing wvo from. And such prosecutions have already taken place.

Even if there are just drums or cubees of wvo sitting out back of a restaurant it may not be OK to simply take the wvo contained. It may belong to another person making biodiesel or collecting for their own vegoil converted diesel. Best to thoroughly reconnoiter the restaurants in your area to see if they all currently have grease disposal company owned dumpsters "out back". If so you will need to convince the restaurant to pour their fryer oil into a container you provide to "stay legal". Some are willing to pour the fryer grease back into the containers it comes in (Cubees) for you. It never hurts to ask. The benefit to them may be that they save money on grease disposal costs since most grease disposal companies charge for each time they pick up grease and an alternative way to dispose of the fryer oil may cut their bill by several hundred dollars a year.

I suggest starting with any oriental restaurants/buffets in your area. These usually have the easiest to process (filter and dewater) wvo. Burger places usually have the hardest to filter/dewater and use wvo..check these last. If possible look in the prospective sources existing disposal container first. High quality wvo looks clear at temperatures above 50*F. It may be from golden colored to as dark as Coke...but if it appears creamy it should not be your first choice. In weather colder than 50*F you may have to take a small sample home and warm it to 50* to determine its quality. If you can find a source of high quality wvo it will make your life much easier than if you only have a low quality source available. So take your time..this step is important. It IS possible to use high fat or hydrogenated wvo in a conversion as long as that conversion is desinged to deal with its tendency to turn to "pudding" at temps where diesel fuel is still quite free flowing. Most conversion kits are not designed to do this..but can be relativly easily upgraded to do so.

Once you find a possible source or two it is time to approach the owner/manager about the possibility of taking some of their "waste fryer oil". Don't show up too well dressed..or at a time they are likely to be very busy. But don't show up greasy either. I have usually approached restaurants in as follows with good success:
At a time in the early afternoon when the restaurant is nearly empty I order a small meal and ask to speak to the manager "when he as a few minutes" as I order. Normally he/she will come to your table half expecting a "sales pitch" since restaurant supply salesmen use this approach occasionally. So it may take a few minutes before they understand that you are asking to take something off thier hands (saving them money) rather than sell them something. Go slow at first and if you get a blank stare go slower. Expect them to look at you as if you are asking a very unusual question. You are..and this is good. Explain that you have found a group of individuals experimenting wiht using waste fryer oil as a fuel for their cars and trucks with only small modifications to the fuel systems. You are planning to try this experimentally and are looking for a restaraunt that would be willing to let you take some of their waste fryer oil to see if it really does work as fuel. Eventually you might want all of their "fryer oil" but for now you're just interested in some for initial experiments. If they say NO ask if they have a policy against this..some chain restaurants do. If so..it is best to simply thank them for their time and forget this as a source of wvo. It isn't going to happen...and arguing won't change that. Managers do not risk their job questioning or breaking "corporate policy". Go on to your second choice.

If they look skeptical let them think about it while you eat you meal. Offer to provide a something as a collection vessel. Ask if they forsee any problem that you may have to overcome or have any rule you may need to comply with. Be sincere and co-operative. If they say they need to think it over..or talk to the owner say that you will be here for lunch next week, thank them for their time, leave them your telephone number...and don't forget to tip the waitress after you finish your meal. Don't try to tell them everything you know about vegoil fuel..unless they ask. It won't help. If they give you the same "I need to talk to the boss" line next week ask if it would be more convenient for you to contact them by phone rather than when you come for meals. Use you best judgment..but I prefer the "soft sell" and patience to being pushy when asking for wvo access. And if I have to come back a second time..I usually bring in a table full of friends when I do. It helps...

That is in fact both step 1 AND 2.
See this is easier than you expected!
But a word of caution...two actually.

1.Once you have secured a source of wvo try very hard to maintain a good relationship with the managers and cooks. Keep the grease disposal area clean and be unobtrusive. I rent a pressure washer each fall to clean the greasy back areas as a "perk" the grease haulers never provide. In a few case Ihave gone back to the restaraunt that said they "were not interested" originally and ask if they would like me to pressure wash thier grese disposal areas..for free. Except for the corporate policy retaraunts this results in about 50% changing their minds about allowing me to pick up thier grease. You may nto need this..but I use thouands of gallons of wvo fuel each year.

2.Never load grease when it might in any way create more work or trouble for the restaurant.
Don't "gab" with the cooks..they may be busy. Just be friendly and efficient and as invisible as possible.

And finally...
If possible bring in "business" in the form of restaurant customers whenever you can...it will help secure the source of wvo more than anything else.

And leave decent tips.
Waitresses are paid lousy wages and tipping creates "good karma". Really!

Steps 3 and 4.
Determine what conversion configuration is most appropriate for your vehicle, climate, and budget and which components will be required for that configuration. Then decide if you want to make all or some of your own components and then install them...or buy the components as a "kit".

(Finding a diesel vehicle is part of step 3 for those that do not already have one.)

For a description on all the possible components in a modern conversion look HERE

Modern converisons all contain the same basic components (more or less)but configurations differ. Generally there is a heated fuel pickup in the tank, heated fuel line, a coolant/fuel heat exchanger, a heated filter, and (in some cases) electric injector line heaters. Fuel routing is controlled either by remote fuel (solenoid) valves and/or by using two seperate fuel pump. In addition there may be fuel temperature and pressure monitors which may or may not be connected (in comercial kits) to automatic controllers.

Contact me directly for special tips on running vegoil in extremely cold climates or for possible upgrades to any kit you are considering buying if the only wvo available is high fat or hydrogenated.

Now you know essentially which components you are going to need.
Time to consider what configuration you want/need.

If you already KNOW you are going to buy a kit rather than make your own it is time to go to each kit makers website and decide which kit you can afford. A set of comparative charts with links to vendors and pictures of the kits and individual components is available at:HERE


To see a plethora of possible conversion configurations go HERE.

Find one with all of the components you have determined you will need using the Kit Calculator and begin to search out the individual components. If you can afford to purchase all of the components great. If not consider making them yourself to save 30-50%. If you cannot afford to buy or make the components maybe you should consider NOT converting to vegoil.
After all this is still considered experimental. So you may not want to experiment on your expensive diesel. Don’t have a diesel..then before you go further you will probably want to get on..since vegoil will not work in gas engines.

For a link on finding diesel powered vehicles in the US go here.

Ok..lets assume you have your conversion components and configuration chosen..and have discovered where to most economically purchase them. You have secured a source of wvo and are poised to convert your diesel to vegoil fuel...but before you do I suggest you may want to make you prefilter/dewatering unit first..so you actually have some fuel on hand to use when you get you conversion completed. I usually recommend that customers considering fabricating their own components fabricate their own prefilter first to make certain that it is realistic to believe they can do so..even using my simple plans.

Hey...at this point you are almost halfway through the process of converting to vegoil. Lots of work is ahead of you ..but often the planning is the hardest part. And that part is pretty much done. On to step #5.

Steps 5 and 6.
Make or purchase a prefilter/dewatering unit if your vegoil source is WVO

If you have a source of unused vegoil which is inexpsensive enough to use as fuel you can probably skip this step. Filtering should be a very simple matter of running it through a fuel flter since there should be very small if any particulate load in it. If you live near a oil "pressing" plant you may be able to buy contaminated svo (not suitable for food use) or "purge oil" (mixed oil from different feedstocks which occurs as they switch from one feedstock to another)at a very low cost. This is relativly rare but worth checking into.

In the US most available and affordable vegoil suitable for fuel use is in the form of already used food grade "waste vegoil". Often called "fryer oil" it is mainly composed of vegetable oil which has been used in deep "fat" fryers and can be any one or a mix of soy, canol, peanut, or other vegetable oils. Sometimes it is hydogenated or has lots of grill grease in it as well. Generally these last two are to be avoided if possible but can be used by a well designed conversion. The cleaner and more liquid your wvo is al room temp the easier it is to filter and use..but if you are stuck with wvo with either high fat or hydrogenated content it just makes the processing and use a tiny bit harder..not impossible. Similarly in other areas of the world palm oils are commonly the leaste expensive vegoils..and have low tmep charachteristics that are similat to high fat or hydrogenated wvo. It CAN be used as fuel..one just needs to treat it the same way one does less visous svo in colder temperatures.

There are two components in wvo which one must remove in order to make it suitable for fuel use, particulates and water. The filter units used to accomplish their removeal from wvo are commonly referred to as "prefilters" since they are filtering the vegoil before it is introduced into the fuel tank..after which it passes through at least one more final filter before flowing through the Injector Pump (IP) which has a very low tolerance for even very fine (10 micron) particulates..and even less for free water. Either one will scratch or pit the mirror like inner surfaces of an IP and ruin it in fairly short order. And normally IPs are very expensive to replace. For a more indepth explanation look here

One of the simplest ways to dewater wvo is to allow it to settle for a few weeks at temperatures it is fully liquid at. A high particulate load may cause poor settling though so filtering out particulates first generally speeds up the process dramatically. Usually a combination of settling and filtering is the best way to ensure that good vegoil fuel results with a minimum of equipment. At the very minimum water must allowed to settle out...which can take as few as four hours if the right conditions are present. But using only settling as a form of prefiltering/dewatering generally results in quickly clogged on board "final" filters and/or damaged IPs and injectors.

A common collection technique that minimizes water content is to collect WVO from the top surface of any collection container and "follow" the surface down as it drops during the "pumping" process. This essentially uses the collection vessel as a primary settling unit. Other techniques are to allow any wvo collected to settle for a few hours at temps it is fully liquid at and then decant/pour off/siphon the wvo off leaving any sediment behind. These techniques will allow any prefilter unit filters to process many more gallons of wvo prior to requiring cleaning or replacement but are not sufficient to remove most suspended water. Suspended water in VO fuel can cause significantly accellerated internal erosion in injector pumps and injectors.

Several vegoil conversion maker has developed their own prefilter units but none of them appear to reliably remove suspended water. Centrifugal filters like the Dieselcraft and "spinner" are fairly good at removeing water in low particulate wvo...but are very expensive and so most suitable for those who have quantities in excess of 500 gallons per week to prefilter/dewater.
No matter what prefilter/dewatering unit you need to test it for suspended water levels. The least expensive way to do this is using the Hot Pan Test.

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The hot pan test. (not to be confused with the "crackle test"
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Smear a finger of wvo across a fry pan (cast iron preferred)as a temp check.

Keep the sample of wvo to be tested handy. Enough for 1/4"-3/8" thickness covering the bottom works best.
Heat the pan on high temp until the smear begins to produce smoke then pour in the sample.

NOTE:
Do not pour in a sample with any visible water. If water droplets are visible no testing is needed. There is water present in your sample. Visible droplets of water will spatter hot oil out of the pan and may cause burns or fire.


Look closely at the bottom of the pan where the oil meets it. Are there very small bubbles forming. This indicates some suspended water. The number of bubbles indicates how much water is present in suspended form.

I usually accept a FEW suspended bubbles (up to 3 per sq inch maximum). Lots of small bubbles is unacceptable to me. If crackling or popping is heard..way too much water is present for the VO to be safely used as fuel.

I have tried to keep this test as simple, cheap, and translatable as possible. It works....though it is not "foolproof".


NOTES:
Do not pour in a sample with any visible water.

If water droplets are visible no testing is needed. There is water present in your sample.

Visible droplets of water will spatter hot oil out of the pan and may cause burns or fire.

Do not average bubble count. The visibility of bubbles is dependent on the temp of the underlying pan and this may be regionalized depending on your heat source.

If the pan has been washed or not used previously it must be "seasoned" to make certain that no moisture is trapped in the pores on the surface of cast iron.

False positive results (bubbles) can be obtained if the pan is WAY too hot..or if solvents are mixed in the WVO.

False negative results (no bubbles) are possible if the suspended water has high concentrations of salt/sugar/ acids.
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Two well tested prefilter/dewaterer designs which have proved to be adaptable to nearly any wvo source are described and sold athere. The "simple handpump unit" is suitable for most non-commercial situations and costs from $75 to $150 to fabricate. It can easily be converted to the much higher capacity semi automated vacuum prefilter unit which is best suited to commercial and co-op use where wvo fuel amounts in excess of 140 Gallons per week is needed.

Regardless of how you prefilter your wvo fuel there will always be some smqall amounts of unusable wvo which is too dirty or full of water after settleing/filtering. A discussion on getting rid of this "junk" wvo or dregs is here

Since before you can use wvo as fuel it must be prefiltered/dewatered this is a logical place to begin the fabrication/conversion process. I usually suggest that folks make their own prefilter unit. This saves a lot of $$$ allowing them to purchase or build a much better conversion.

This is the first major investment in converting to vegoil fuel. Once you have a wvo prefilter/dewatering unit you are halfway to running your diesel on vegoil. If you do not feel you have the skill required to fabricate a prefilter unit you should probably buy ready to install components and consider having a mechanic install them. At the very least you should consider enlisting the help of friends with mechanical skills.

Step 7.
Order your kit or gather your parts/materials.

Ok, it is time to either lay out the cash for a complete conversion kit or begin to gather the components for you own. Regardless of whether you are buying all your components or making them you should make a complete list of what you are going to need for you conversion first. If you are buying a kit determine if it includes all of the needed components or if you will be responsible for finding some of them elsewhere. Not all kits come with everything you need.

Get firm prices on each component including shipping..which can add a substantial amount to the total. And remeber that some vendors will ship your kit/components in a few days..and others may take months. Basically..shop for the best deal that fits your timeframe.

Once your list is complete with all the costs/prices determine if it is still affordable and if so..order them or go pick them up.

Step 8.
Fabricate your components and preassemble the conversion, marking connections.

If you are fabricating your own components the parts list will be longer..but the cost significantly lower. I suggest getting all the parts together and THEN beginning on the project one component at a time. It will save time, fuel, and frustration.
Most of the sub components used to fabricate my conversion components are commonly available at hardware and plumbing stores, auto supply stores, and furnace repair shops. Of course a better deal can often be found at the various internet supply and "salvage" vendors on such items as DPDT switches, relays, filters, remote fuel (solenoid) valves, and fuel pumps. Don't forget Ebay as they often have unbelievable deals on the sort of odd stuff we use for conversions.

In order to keep errors during final assembly I recommend preassembling the components in the order they will eventually go after checking each to make certain it will fit where you plan on installing it. Don’t cut hoses yet..just lay them out and mark which goes where. I always use a bit of colored tape to mark each hose connection on the hose AND the component it will be hooked up to but a few wraps of masking tape and a magic marker will work just as well. Taking the time to do this will avoid the most common and time consuming problem with hooking up all those hoses and component once they are installed. Believe me..its worth it.

Step 9.
Install your vegoil conversion.
This is pretty strait forward if you have followed my advice so far. I usually prefer to start by installing the tank and working my way forward. If you can get the use of a lift at a garage it speeds everything up considerably...but otherwise just use common sense when jacking. Rent jack stands if you don't have them and jack and brace on a hard surface so they cannot shift when you are under the vehicle running the fuel lines. NEVER crawl under a vehicle just held up by a jack.. and Don’t use cinder blocks to support the jack or car.. they can crush unexpectedly...and so can you. I normally lift the vehicle and drill/saw my one large hole for the insulated HOH fuel lines using a hole saw. remember to use a rubber grommet or bit of spare hose as a buffer for the other hoses passing through the hole or you may find a hole rubbed into you fuel lines somewhere "down the road". Alternatively I have used "foam in a can" to seal and secure the lines in the hole I cut. If you have planned everything perfectly it should take less than an after noon to install your conversion. But it will take longer..plan on it! My first conversion took nearly two days...about 18 hours. My last conversion took less than 4 hours. Yours will likely take from 8 to 16 hours. have another vehicle handy to get things you forgot you would need...and a second pair of hands can shorten the installation time down by way more than half!

Besides the individual components you may also need:
Lots of Zip ties. 100 is a nice number.
A few more hose clamps than you think you will need, Get the proper size for them to work properly.
At least 30' of steel wire..for fishing hoses through and under the car and temporarily securing stuff.
A 12v test light ro multi meter (if you are installing 12v heaters or a heated filter)
A flashlight or trouble light.
Screwdrivers, pliers, utility knife, wrenches

Before you hook up the coolant or vegoil fuel hoses have someone blow through the tank fill tube and make sure you feel a good flow of air out of the vegoil fuel line. Even if you marked it you want to make sure you don't have any kinks in it. While they are regaining their breath add a few quarts of filtered vegoil to the tank then have them blow into the tank again forcing the vegoil through the line. When vegoil appears at the end of the line have them stop. Then progressively hook up each inline component forcing vegoil through each one as you do. It may be a bit hard to force vegoil through the filter so instead fill the filter element with clean vegoil before assembling it. Purging air form the system as you assemble it will save you lots of frustration in the next step since it should shorten the time it takes to purge air from the system during your initial test drive. Only a small amount should be present once everything is connected and after a few initial peremptory purges any air present will indicate an air leak in the system with little doubt. If you have correctly tightened all of your connections this should not be a problem at all. If not it will be time to recheck all of your connections if you experience more than a few hiccups during your initial test drive. One last thing to check before your test drive is that all electrical connection are working the way they should. Test the remote fuel (solenoid) valve(s) before you start the engine. Turn on any 12v heaters just long enough to determine if they are getting warm. If you are not absolutely sure that your electrical connections are correct fix them. Check your antifreeze level..you may have lost a bit during the tie in to the tie in process.
and don't forget to add some vegoil to the tank..two quarts won't go far.


Suddenly it time for....

Step 10.
Test your vegoil conversion.
Clean up first..and take all of your tools as well as some rags..and hand cleaner..just in case.
Jumper cables may also come in handy.
If possible have the friend that helped install the conversion follow you on your initial test drive.
Take along a jug of premixed 50/50 antifreeze mix just incase there is a bubble that works its way out of the new hoses you added to the system.

Start your engine as you normally would. Make sure that your vegoil switch is in the diesel position so you don't mistakenly start on vegoil. Allow the engine to warm up with the radiator cap off if possible. If the level in the radiator or coolant overflow tank lowers top it up with antifreeze mix. Once your engine is warm get in and drive normally for a mile or so. Make sure you are not in traffic and can pull over without incident if the engine does quit unexpectedly. Best if you can be going at highway speeds since if the fuel supply is temporarily cut due to air bubble your momentum may allow you to quickly switch over to diesel and purge most or all of the air in the injector lines before all your momentum is lost.

As you are cruising smoothly down an empty road switch to vegoil for 5 seconds...then back to diesel for a full minute. Any hiccups? If so repeat until you no longer feel any difference after your short switch over. If you feel no engine miss or sudden acceleration due to air being purged through the injectors try switching over for 10 seconds. Still no hiccups? Switch for a full minute...breath normally. Usually the test drive is pretty anticlimactic. If you have hiccups no matter how often you repeat the purge process it is time to go home and look for air leaks. Are all the connections tight? Did you tape all the threaded connection on components?

In fact most people wonder if they hooked up the electrics correctly and if they are still running on diesel at about this point. After a few more minutes of smooth running pull over and smell the exhaust...if it smells like a barbeque..your conversion is done.

*If you have chosen to use a tank previously used for diesel fuel as your vegoil tank you should be aware that waxy deposits accumulate in them and tend to be loosend by warm vegoil. To avoid the possability of these deposits clogging your main filter after a few hundred miles of problem free vegoil travel you can:
A. Steam clean the tank before use...thoroughly drying it afterward.
or
B. Stick a small clear plastic outer shell disposable fuel filter in the vegoil line prior to the main filter..and keep a few spares in your trunk...along with a few rags. It is easy to see if these are clogging with the dark tank crud and nearly as easy to swap a clean one for a clogged one.

Welcome to the world of responsible and inexpensive non-petroleum fuel use.
Have fun...but please don't forget that every activity has its dangers. Before you forget I suggest you look over this discussion on VegOil SAFETY

This message has been edited. Last edited by: danalinscott,

A list of the components commonly used to convert vehicles which can be purchased via internet and places to purchase them can be found at: http://www.websitetoolbox.com/mb/voconversionbasics?forum=55694

This message has been edited. Last edited by: danalinscott,

I try to update this sticky post every 6 months.

I request that anyone who has suggestions for improvments please email them directly to me with the header "10 step suggestion". My email is linked to in my signature.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: danalinscott,

Just a work area for the above sticky used as a backup while making changes. Just in case something goes worng.

quote:

Originally posted by danalinscott:
Here is the basic outline of the process of converting to wvo/svo.


If you have basic questions please ask them IN THIS DISCUSSION And I will try to answer them as quickly as possible. The questions and answers willthen be archived and indexed so others with these same questions can find them easily.

PLEASE CONSIDER THIS THREAD CLOSED TO DISCUSSION SO NOT TO CLUTTER IT UP. If you want to discuss an item in this thread please go to the 10 steps "discussion" post HERE. This will help reduce confusion for newbies who review this thead. If you responded above already please help clean up this thread buy deleting your post.
Thanks,
Dana
-----------------------------------------
Some commonly used abbreviations whose meanings may not be readily apparrent to "newbies" are included. For a list and discussion of these go to this post.
-----------------------------------------
Steps to conversion.
1.Determine if you have a ready and affordable supply of vegoil available.

2.Secure that source.

3.Determine what configuration is most appropriate for your vehicle, climate, and budget and which components will be required.

4.Decide if you want to make all or some of your own components and then install them...or buy the components as a "kit".

5.Make or purchase a prefilter/dewatering unit if your vegoil source is WVO..

6.Determine if you are capable of making your own components. If in doubt reconsider your decision in step.

7.Order your kit or gather your parts/materials.

8.Fabricate your components and preassemble the conversion, marking connections.

9.Install your vegoil conversion.

10.Test your vegoil conversion.
-------------------------------------------

Finding a diesel vehicle is part of step 3 for those that do not already have one.
Here is a discussion with links to help you.

Steps 1 and 2.
Determine if you have a ready and affordable supply of vegoil available and secure that source.


If you don't have a ready supply available you probably do NOT want to convert to vegoil.
Usually the most "available" (read as inexpensive) vegoil is wvo(waste vegoil) so this is the option I usually recommend investigating first. You cannot simply TAKE wvo from the dumpsters sitting behind restaurants. It usually BELONGS to somebody else. In most cases wvo in a dumpster BELONGS to the rendering/grease disposal company that owns the dumpster. Removing wvo from these dumpsters is THEFT unless you have permission..and often the restaurant owner/manager may not have a clue that the contract with the grease disposal company takes fulllegal ownership of "grease" once it is poured into their dumpster. Having "permission" from a restaurant that does not legally own the wvo will not be a defense if you are caught and prosecuted/sued by the grease hauler whose dumpster you are removing wvo from. And such prosecutions have already taken place.

Even if there are just drums or cubees of wvo sitting out back of a restaurant it may not be OK to simply take the wvo contained. It may belong to another person making biodiesel or collecting for their own vegoil converted diesel. Best to thoroughly reconnoiter the restaurants in your area to see if they all currently have grease disposal company owned dumpsters "out back". If so you will need to convince the restaurant to pour their fryer oil into a container you provide to "stay legal". Some are willing to pour the fryer grease back into the containers it comes in (Cubees) for you. It never hurts to ask. The benefit to them may be that they save money on grease disposal costs since most grease disposal companies charge for each time they pick up grease and an alternative way to dispose of the fryer oil may cut their bill by several hundred dollars a year.

I suggest starting with any oriental restaurants/buffets in your area. These usually have the easiest to process (filter and dewater) wvo. Burger places usually have the hardest to filter/dewater and use wvo..check these last. If possible look in the prospective sources existing disposal container first. High quality wvo looks clear at temperatures above 50*F. It may be from golden colored to as dark as Coke...but if it appears creamy it should not be your first choice. In weather colder than 50*F you may have to take a small sample home and warm it to 50* to determine its quality. If you can find a source of high quality wvo it will make your life much easier than if you only have a low quality source available. So take your time..this step is important. It IS possible to use high fat or hydrogenated wvo in a conversion as long as that conversion is desinged to deal with its tendency to turn to "pudding" at temps where diesel fuel is still quite free flowing. Most conversion kits are not designed to do this..but can be relativly easily upgraded to do so.

Once you find a possible source or two it is time to approach the owner/manager about the possibility of taking some of their "waste fryer oil". Don't show up too well dressed..or at a time they are likely to be very busy. But don't show up greasy either. I have usually approached restaurants in as follows with good success:
At a time in the early afternoon when the restaurant is nearly empty I order a small meal and ask to speak to the manager "when he as a few minutes" as I order. Normally he/she will come to your table half expecting a "sales pitch" since restaurant supply salesmen use this approach occasionally. So it may take a few minutes before they understand that you are asking to take something off thier hands (saving them money) rather than sell them something. Go slow at first and if you get a blank stare go slower. Expect them to look at you as if you are asking a very unusual question. You are..and this is good. Explain that you have found a group of individuals experimenting wiht using waste fryer oil as a fuel for their cars and trucks with only small modifications to the fuel systems. You are planning to try this experimentally and are looking for a restaraunt that would be willing to let you take some of their waste fryer oil to see if it really does work as fuel. Eventually you might want all of their "fryer oil" but for now you're just interested in some for initial experiments. If they say NO ask if they have a policy against this..some chain restaurants do. If so..it is best to simply thank them for their time and forget this as a source of wvo. It isn't going to happen...and arguing won't change that. Managers do not risk their job questioning or breaking "corporate policy". Go on to your second choice.

If they look skeptical let them think about it while you eat you meal. Offer to provide a something as a collection vessel. Ask if they forsee any problem that you may have to overcome or have any rule you may need to comply with. Be sincere and co-operative. If they say they need to think it over..or talk to the owner say that you will be here for lunch next week, thank them for their time, leave them your telephone number...and don't forget to tip the waitress after you finish your meal. Don't try to tell them everything you know about vegoil fuel..unless they ask. It won't help. If they give you the same "I need to talk to the boss" line next week ask if it would be more convenient for you to contact them by phone rather than when you come for meals. Use you best judgment..but I prefer the "soft sell" and patience to being pushy when asking for wvo access. And if I have to come back a second time..I usually bring in a table full of friends when I do. It helps...

That is in fact both step 1 AND 2.
See this is easier than you expected!
But a word of caution...two actually.

1.Once you have secured a source of wvo try very hard to maintain a good relationship with the managers and cooks. Keep the grease disposal area clean and be unobtrusive. I rent a pressure washer each fall to clean the greasy back areas as a "perk" the grease haulers never provide. In a few case Ihave gone back to the restaraunt that said they "were not interested" originally and ask if they would like me to pressure wash thier grese disposal areas..for free. Except for the corporate policy retaraunts this results in about 50% changing their minds about allowing me to pick up thier grease. You may not need this..but I use thouands of gallons of wvo fuel each year.

2.Never load grease when it might in any way create more work or trouble for the restaurant.
Don't "gab" with the cooks..they may be busy. Just be friendly and efficient and as invisible as possible.

And finally...
If possible bring in "business" in the form of restaurant customers whenever you can...it will help secure the source of wvo more than anything else.

And leave decent tips.
Waitresses are paid lousy wages and tipping creates "good karma". Really!

Steps 3 and 4.
Determine what conversion configuration is most appropriate for your vehicle, climate, and budget and which components will be required for taht configuration. Then decide if you want to make all or some of your own components and then install them...or buy the components as a "kit".

(Finding a diesel vehicle is part of step 3 for those that do not already have one.)

A discussion and decription of all the components in most modern conversions is HERE

I have developed a "custom kit calculator" to help folks easily determine what components will be needed to convert their diesel vehicle in the climate they expect to have it function well in. It is on my website here

Contact me directly for special tips on running vegoil in very cold temperatures or for possible upgrades to any kit you are considering buying if the only wvo available is highfat or hydrogenated.

Now you know essentially which components you are going to need.
Time to consider what configuration you want/need.
If you already KNOW you are going to buy a kit rather than make your own it is time to go to each kit makers website and decide which kit you can afford. If you cannot decide let me know and I will be happy to assist and advise you. Contact me atdanalinscott@yahoo.com.

Below are the links to some of the kit sellers websites.
Some accurately portray thier conversion kits capabilities..and some exaggerate them.
If you want my opinion on any kit before you buy.. contact me atdanalinscott@yahoo.com.

Frybrid
Vegistroke (Fords Powerstroke engines only)
Greasecar
Neoteric/Plantdrive
and
Greasel

To see a plethora of conversion configurations go here.

Find one with all of the components you have determined you will need using the Kit Calculator and begin to search out the individual components. If you can afford to purchase all of the components great. If not consider making them yourself to save 30-50%. If you cannot afford to buy or make the components maybe you should consider NOT converting to vegoil.
After all this is still considered experimental. So you may not want to experiment on your expensive diesel. Don’t have a diesel..then before you go further you will probably want to get on..since vegoil will not work in gas engines.

For a link on finding diesel powered vehicles in the US go here.

Ok..lets assume you have your conversion components and configuration chosen..and have discovered where to most economically purchase them. You have secured a source of wvo and are poised to convert your diesel to vegoil fuel...but before you do I suggest you may want to make you prefilter/dewatering unit first..so you actually have some fuel on hand to use when you get you conversion completed. I usually recommend that customers considering fabricating their own components fabricate their own prefilter first to make certain that it is realistic to believe they can do so..even using my simple plans.

Hey...at this point you are almost halfway through the process of converting to vegoil. Lots of work is ahead of you ..but often the planning is the hardest part. And that part is pretty much done. On to step #5.

Steps 5 and 6.
Make or purchase a prefilter/dewatering unit if your vegoil source is WVO

If you have a source of unused vegoil which is inexpsensive enough to use as fuel you can probably skip this step. Filtering should be a very simple matter of running it through a fuel flter since there should be very small if any particulate load in it. If you live near a oil "pressing" plant you may be able to buy contaminated svo (not suitable for food use) or "purge oil" (mixed oil from different feedstocks which occurs as they switch from one feedstock to another)at a very low cost. This is relativly rare but worth checking into.

In the US most available and affordable vegoil suitable for fuel use is in the form of already used food grade "waste vegoil". Often called "fryer oil" it is mainly composed of vegetable oil which has been used in deep "fat" fryers and can be any one or a mix of soy, canol, peanut, or other vegetable oils. Sometimes it is hydogenated or has lots of grill grease in it as well. Generally these last two are to be avoided if possible but can be used by a well designed conversion. The cleaner and more liquid your wvo is al room temp the easier it is to filter and use..but if you are stuck with wvo with either high fat or hydrogenated content it just makes the processing and use a tiny bit harder..not impossible. Similarly in other areas of the world palm oils are commonly the leaste expensive vegoils..and have low tmep charachteristics that are similat to high fat or hydrogenated wvo. It CAN be used as fuel..one just needs to treat it the same way one does less visous svo in colder temperatures.

There are two components in wvo which one must remove in order to make it suitable for fuel use, particulates and water. The filter units used to accomplish their removeal from wvo are commonly referred to as "prefilters" since they are filtering the vegoil before it is introduced into the fuel tank..after which it passes through at least one more final filter before flowing through the Injector Pump (IP) which has a very low tolerance for even very fine (10 micron) particulates..and even less for free water. Either one will scratch or pit the mirror like inner surfaces of an IP and ruin it in fairly short order. And normally IPs are very expensive to replace. For a more indepth explanation look here

One of the simplest ways to dewater wvo is to allow it to settle for a few weeks at temperatures it is fully liquid at. A high particulate load may cause poor settling though so filtering out particulates first generally speeds up the process dramatically. Usually a combination of settling and filtering is the best way to ensure that good vegoil fuel results with a minimum of equipment. At the very minimum water must bellowed to settle out...which can take as few as four hours if the right conditions are present. But using only settling as a form of prefiltering generally results in quickly clogged on board "final" filters.

A common technique is to collect vegoil from the top surface of any collection container and "follow" the surface down as it drops during the "pumping" process. This essentially uses the collection vessel as a primary settling unit. Other techniques are to allow any wvo collected to settle for a few hours at temps it is fully liquid at and then decant/pour off/siphon the wvo off leaving any sediment behind. These techniques will allow any prefilter unit filters to process many more gallons of wvo prior to requiring cleaning or replacement.

Several vegoil conversion maker has developed their own prefilter units but to my knowledge none remvoe suspended water from WVO/SVO.


You can purchase Neoterics pump/filter/wand prefilter unit near the bottom of this page(Around $400)

Greasecar has a description of their DIY prefilter units here. No estimate of cost is included.

Greasel does not sell a prefilter unit but does sell some prefilter components. Select the products tab from this page.

Each of the above sites provides some direction on prefiltering as does "Fatmobile" here

Two well tested prefilter/dewaterer designs which have proved to be adaptable to nearly any wvo source are described here. The "simple handpump unit" is suitable for most non-commercial situations and costs from $75 to $150 to fabricate. It can easily be converted to the much higher capacity semi automated vacuum prefilter unit which is best suited to commercial and co-op use where wvo fuel amounts in excess of 140 Gallons per week is needed.

Regardless of how you prefilte ryour wvo fuel there will always be some unusable wvo which is too dirty or full of water after settleing/filtering. A discussion on getting rid of this "junk" wvo or dregs is here

Since before you can use wvo as fuel it must be prefiltered/dewatered this is a logical place to begin the fabrication/conversion process. Since I offer the lowest cost option for those considering converting to vegoil (fabricating your own components) I usually suggest to new customers that they make their own prefilter unit. This saves them a lot of $$$ allowing them to purchase or build a much better conversion..and allows me some way to advise them on if they have the skills necessary to fabricate their own conversion from scratch..of go the more expensive route of buying the components/kit ready to install. Once you have thoroughly reflected on this you will actually have also completed step #6 as well.

This is the first major investment in converting to vegoil fuel. Once you have a wvo prefilter/dewatering unit you are halfway to running your diesel on vegoil. If you do not feel you have the skill required to fabricate a prefilter unit you should probably buy ready to install components and consider having a mechanic install them. At the very least you should consider enlisting the help of friends with mechanical skills.

Step 7.
Order your kit or gather your parts/materials.

Ok, it is time to either lay out the cash for a complete conversion kit or begin to gather the components for you own.

If you have decided to purchase a kit compare what is offered from the various kit makers:
Noeteric
Greasecar
and
Greasel

While I do not offer kits I do offer some of the more difficult to make components and encourage folks to consider putting together their own custom kit to more perfectly match their needs and budget.
Heres my website: VegOil Conversions by Dana Linscott

Regardless of whether you are buying all your components or making them you should make a complete list of what you are going to need for you conversion first.
If you are buying a kit determine if it includes all of the needed components or if you will be responsible for finding some of them elsewhere. Not all kits come with everything you need.

Get firm prices on each component including shipping..which can add a substantial amount to the total.
Basically..shop for the best deal.
Once your list is complete with all the costs/prices determine if it is still affordable and if so..order them or go pick them up.

Step 8.
Fabricate your components and preassemble the conversion, marking connections.

If you are fabricating your own components the parts list will be longer..but the cost significantly lower. I suggest getting all the parts together and THEN beginning on the project one component at a time. It will save time, fuel, and frustration.
Most of the sub components used to fabricate my conversion components are commonly available at hardware and plumbing stores, auto supply stores, and furnace repair shops. Of course a better deal can often be found at the various internet supply and "salvage" vendors on such items as DPDT switches, relays, filters, remote fuel (solenoid) valves, and fuel pumps. Don't forget Ebay as they often have unbelievable deals on the sort of odd stuff we use for conversions.

In order to keep errors during final assembly I recommend preassembling the components in the order they will eventually go after checking each to make certain it will fit where you plan on installing it. Don’t cut hoses yet..just lay them out and mark which goes where. I always use a bit of colored tape to mark each hose connection on the hose AND the component it will be hooked up to but a few wraps of masking tape and a magic marker will work just as well. Taking the time to do this will avoid the most common and time consuming problem with hooking up all those hoses and component once they are installed. Believe me..its worth it.

Step 9.
Install your vegoil conversion.
This is pretty strait forward if you have followed my advice so far. I usually prefer to start by installing the tank and working my way forward. If you can get the use of a lift at a garage it speeds everything up considerably...but otherwise just use common sense when jacking. Rent jack stands if you don't have them and jack and brace on a hard surface so they cannot shift when you are under the vehicle running the fuel lines. NEVER crawl under a vehicle just held up by a jack.. and Don’t use cinder blocks to support the jack or car.. they can crush unexpectedly...and so can you. I normally lift the vehicle and drill/saw my one large hole for the insulated HOH fuel lines using a hole saw. remember to use a rubber grommet or bit of spare hose as a buffer for the other hoses passing through the hole or you may find a hole rubbed into you fuel lines somewhere "down the road". Alternatively I have used "foam in a can" to seal and secure the lines in the hole I cut. If you have planned everything perfectly it should take less than an after noon to install your conversion. But it will take longer..plan on it! My first conversion took nearly two days...about 18 hours. My last conversion took less than 4 hours. Yours will likely take from 8 to 16 hours. have another vehicle handy to get things you forgot you would need...and a second pair of hands can shorten the installation time down by way more than half!

Besides the individual components you may also need:
Lots of Zip ties. 100 is a nice number.
A few more hose clamps than you think you will need, Get the proper size for them to work properly.
At least 30' of steel wire..for fishing hoses through and under the car and temporarily securing stuff.
A 12v test light ro multi meter (if you are installing 12v heaters or a heated filter)
A flashlight or trouble light.
Screwdrivers, pliers, utility knife, wrenches

Before you hook up the coolant or vegoil fuel hoses have someone blow through the tank fill tube and make sure you feel a good flow of air out of the vegoil fuel line. Even if you marked it you want to make sure you don't have any kinks in it. While they are regaining their breath add a few quarts of filtered vegoil to the tank then have them blow into the tank again forcing the vegoil through the line. When vegoil appears at the end of the line have them stop. Then progressively hook up each inline component forcing vegoil through each one as you do. It may be a bit hard to force vegoil through the filter so instead fill the filter element with clean vegoil before assembling it. Purging air form the system as you assemble it will save you lots of frustration in the next step since it should shorten the time it takes to purge air from the system during your initial test drive. Only a small amount should be present once everything is connected and after a few initial peremptory purges any air present will indicate an air leak in the system with little doubt. If you have correctly tightened all of your connections this should not be a problem at all. If not it will be time to recheck all of your connections if you experience more than a few hiccups during your initial test drive. One last thing to check before your test drive is that all electrical connection are working the way they should. Test the remote fuel (solenoid) valve(s) before you start the engine. Turn on any 12v heaters just long enough to determine if they are getting warm. If you are not absolutely sure that your electrical connections are correct fix them. Check your antifreeze level..you may have lost a bit during the tie in to the tie in process.
and don't forget to add some vegoil to the tank..two quarts won't go far.


Suddenly it time for....

Step 10.
Test your vegoil conversion.
Clean up first..and take all of your tools as well as some rags..and hand cleaner..just in case.
Jumper cables may also come in handy.
If possible have the friend that helped install the conversion follow you on your initial test drive.
Take along a jug of premixed 50/50 antifreeze mix just incase there is a bubble that works its way out of the new hoses you added to the system.

Start your engine as you normally would. Make sure that your vegoil switch is in the diesel position so you don't mistakenly start on vegoil. Allow the engine to warm up with the radiator cap off if possible. If the level in the radiator or coolant overflow tank lowers top it up with antifreeze mix. Once your engine is warm get in and drive normally for a mile or so. Make sure you are not in traffic and can pull over without incident if the engine does quit unexpectedly. Best if you can be going at highway speeds since if the fuel supply is temporarily cut due to air bubble your momentum may allow you to quickly switch over to diesel and purge most or all of the air in the injector lines before all your momentum is lost.

As you are cruising smoothly down an empty road switch to vegoil for 5 seconds...then back to diesel for a full minute. Any hiccups? If so repeat until you no longer feel any difference after your short switch over. If you feel no engine miss or sudden acceleration due to air being purged through the injectors try switching over for 10 seconds. Still no hiccups? Switch for a full minute...breath normally. Usually the test drive is pretty anticlimactic. If you have hiccups no matter how often you repeat the purge process it is time to go home and look for air leaks. Are all the connections tight? Did you tape all the threaded connection on components?

In fact most people wonder if they hooked up the electrics correctly and if they are still running on diesel at about this point. After a few more minutes of smooth running pull over and smell the exhaust...if it smells like a barbeque..your conversion is done.

*If you have chosen to use a tank previously used for diesel fuel as your vegoil tank you should be aware that waxy deposits accumulate in them and tend to be loosend by warm vegoil. To avoid the possability of these deposits clogging your main filter after a few hundred miles of problem free vegoil travel you can:
A. Steam clean the tank before use...thoroughly drying it afterward.
or
B. Stick a small clear plastic outer shell disposable fuel filter in the vegoil line prior to the main filter..and keep a few spares in your trunk...along with a few rags. It is easy to see if these are clogging with the dark tank crud and nearly as easy to swap a clean one for a clogged one.

Welcome to the world of responsible and inexpensive non-petroleum fuel use.
Have fun...but please don't forget that every activity has its dangers. Before you forget I suggest you look over this discussion on VegOil SAFETY

This message has been edited. Last edited by: danalinscott,

Pardon me. I just need a answer if possible.I bought a fuel heater,and I need to cut into heater lines.I will but metal ones.What size do I need for 1983 300sd heater lines.Of couse I'll take heater with me to find coolant lines for heater.
Thanks

Sorry done found that page.