additive that will help to clean injectors etc?
I have hear that a cup of power steering fluid is a good injector cleaner?

Never heard that but I have seen people take the filter out, drain the bowl, and fill it up with sea foam and that worked just as slick as can be. That stuff is awesome!

What is sea foam? I am looking for something that will clean the injectors and IP?
Rusty

I have a screwdriver that I use which comes into contact with a lot of Bio. The silver/ Nickel coating has been removed from it leaving a copper looking base. If Bio will take chrome off a screwdriver as well as all the other things it eats through and dissolves, I reckon a good dose of this stuff is going to clean anything that can be cleaned by a liquid in your injectors or engine.

As I have a 2 tank system and run b100 as start up fuel, I reckon I'm giving my injectors a good, regular clean every day.

quote:

If Bio will take chrome off

Then I'd worry about any hard chrome plated pieces in the injectors or IP. However I doubt that the shiny material removed from the screwdriver was chrome, but more likely it was cadmium, which is commonly applied over a "flash" layer of copper to help it stick to steel, pot metal, etc. Cad plating is very common on shiny metal parts, but doesn't protect as well as chrome electro-plating. Nickle plating is sort of in-between - moderatly corrosion resistant, and rather hard wearing, but will wear away and weather away. Cad plating is actually rather soft, and will go away in rain water, after a few years.

Your point about biodiesel cleaning things is still valid though. I just wanted to correct a possible misunderstanding. As to it's ability to dissolve burnt on combustion deposits, let's say I'm skeptical. As you said "this stuff is going to clean anything that can be cleaned by a liquid in your injectors or engine".
Cheers,
JohnO

Years ago, we had a 86 Plymouth Neon (gas engine)that developed irratic behavior while trying to idle, fuel mileage was off, etc. This occurred while on a cross country trip. 2 containers of fuel injection cleaner in 2 tanks of fuel didn't solve the problem. I then bought 2 quarts of Trans fluid and dumped it into the next 2 tanks of fuel. When I was pulling into the pump for another fuel up and noticed that the idling had smoothened out and fuel mileage was back up to normal on the next tank.
I have used trans fluid to clean 5th wheel grease off my hands with great results (didn't have any soap available and i figured the trans fluid was the lesser of two evils on car interior)
Only one major issue wrong with dumping it in your tank for a fuel cleaner on a diesel, if you get pulled over by DOT, they will think you are using off road fuel because of the red coloring of the trans fluid.

quote:

they will think you are using off road fuel because of the red coloring of the trans fluid.

A good reason to keep the empty container with you. Marvel Mystery Oil does the same thing.
Cheers,
JohnO

Seafoam is an all purpose "miracle juice" for engines. I have no clue what it is but it gets its name cause it's green and foamy. It works on any engine whatsoever you put it in. Even crank cases. I love it. I use it to get back performance, dewater bad fuel, and especially clean injectors. It's great stuff. It's available at oriely's auto, Autozone, and walmart but walmart is the worst thing to ever happen to america so don't get it there. Personal opinion. If you want another miracle compound look up Xado. Xado is a compound that chemically bonds to worn metal in an engine and replaces it to new. I know someone who had SEVERE coking and used that stuff. Car runs like new. Never another problem. Anyway, that's my $.02.

I will have to go to wall mart to get some then, thanks, btw Bill Clinton gave China "most favored nation" status and that is what opened the flood gates, and dont forget he also sold our nuclear technology to them (via his little buddys from Indonesia) as well. But thats a completely diff topic as well as forum i guess.

what is "coking" my engine seems to be "missing" for lack of a better term. im running regular ol diesel from the OPEC cartels right now to find out the prob.

Thanks for your understanding in the Walmart matter. And as far as the OPEC cartel goes isn't that why we're doing this? But I digress. I don't know exactly what causes coking but what I do know is the end result is scratches and gouges in the cylinder walls and rings. In my 99 7.3L the "missing" was an electrical problem. Under the valve cover is a plug that runs electricity to the injectors. That plug came loose and gave speratic to no signal to one of my injectors. I'd try there. Check out that Xado stuff though really. They even recommend putting it in new vehicles just to be a protectant and aid in even wearing when breaking in the engine. It's about a hundred dollars for a treatment but I think its worth it. I'm putting it in my truck as soon as I can.
Sorry. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.

your exactly right I wuld love to put the screws to the opec worms (as well as teh speculators) SMAK there i go again.
does the 06 6.0 have the same plug under the valve cover?
I just got back from a trip to yellowstone towing a 24 foot trailer for 2800+ miles and when i got back there was an oil leak and the "missing" thing.

I avoid shopping at MalWart unless it's for a N.Amer. made product.

quote:

Originally posted by john galt:
I avoid shopping at MalWart unless it's for a N.Amer. made product.

LOL, I wasnt aware that they actually made those things.

I got a bunch of stuff from my great aunt after she died and ALL her stuff was made in the good ol USofA. was pretty cool

I just had to replace the IP on my 6.2 diesel that I am running a blend on. I am not exactly sure what the problem was but I think something was sticking inside it (plungers, vanes, have been told several possibilities) I am looking for something to add every few tanks to prevent this from happening again if indeed that was the problem.
Rusty

Have you tried a naptha purging?

Naptha is the best fluid of choice for injector cleaning. Remove the send and return fuel lines and stick them in a jar with 1000mL of naphtha. Start the engine with the car in Park (or neutral if you have a manual) and vary the throttle until the fuel is almost completely consumed. Don't suck the jar dry, or you will need to bleed the system of air. Note the quantity and quality of deposits which come out the return line. Repeat every six months with 500mL. Subsequent "purgings" should produce less deposits. Liqui-Moly (also Lubro-Moly) makes a great product called, "Diesel Purge" (along with a lot of other great products - I swear by their 15W-40) which I have gotten as cheap as $4.95 a can (500mL) in a box of twelve.

Biodiesel will do nothing to clean your injectors if your driving habits and/or lack of regular servicing and maintenance exacerbate coking deposits. Biodiesel, like any proper diesel fuel, would only help to remove deposits if you gave the car a good ol' Italian Tune-Up, i.e. 2hrs @ 70+ mph uphill with a heavy load. By design, the heat of the engine will remove deposits.

Good advice regarding ATF. It contains lots of detergents - as well as conditioners and the dreaded "red dye" I often top up the fuel filter with ATF when changing out an old one.

quote:

Only one major issue wrong with dumping it in your tank for a fuel cleaner on a diesel, if you get pulled over by DOT, they will think you are using off road fuel because of the red coloring of the trans fluid.

Adding a liter of ATF won't significantly change the color in a full tank of ULSD. Also, it is legal to use off-road diesel, or any red-dyed fuel, as an additive. If you fueled with 100% ATF and the DOT ever had cause to investigate your tank, likely they would fine you for avoiding road tax. Very unlikely. Besides, it is the big rigs which do the most damage to the roads and interstates. Personally, I don't mind not paying for road taxes to fix problems I am not directly responsible for, but that is me.

Aloha!

quote:

if you gave the car a good ol' Italian Tune-Up, i

That is so funny because it is so true. I hitched through Italy once and the drivers there are all clinically insane. They must be trained from birth to believe it is impossible to die whilst in a car. Drive as fast as you can at all times and treat any clearance that dosen't scrape more than a layer of paint off as a wide gap. Total nutters those Romans even if they did invent the durable straight roads with hard wearing surfaces we all depend on now. They seem to think that means they own all of them personally.

Naptha sounds like a good tip but can running on naptha damage anything? Does it burn very hot? Could you use it as a fuel additive? I heard something about old naptha mothballs being used in the past but also heard it was dangerous.

Mothballs is an old dragstrip trip. I hear almost like a shot of nitrous but terribly hard on the engine. So I've heard. Thank you all for understanding the "American Made" thing I have. I work at Spirit Aerosystems and the airline industry is notorious for shipping jobs overseas. I've heard that a bottle of Heet is like 90% naptha. A good cleaning of the injectors could be as cheap as a bottle of that. Who knows that might be all Seafoam is. I don't really care what it is as long as it works. And like I said, It Does! And I believe the 06 6.0 does have that same plug. It's the exact same engine. The only difference is a little displacement and the smog control crap.

which valve cover is it under?

the truck just seems a bit less responsive than before and sometimes it dosent kick down like it should?

Ok now that's not what it was doing to me. Mine just stuttered real bad. Like a gasser that is missing on a cylinder. Now I don't know what would happen if it is pulled apart a little and arcing across where it's not stuttering hardly. You know If you really want good help go to powerstrokenation.com or powerstroke.org and look for a guy named charles ledger. He's a certified powerstroke tech. I'd ask around up there. You'll probably get more help there.
And there's one under each valve cover. Your check engine light would come on though and the code reader would say the cylinder # and high to low side opened/closed. That means its the electrical.

ahh ok then thats not the prob, it feels like it may be starving for fuel but then again i just changed the filters teh other day so they are squeeky clean, the old ones were WAY dirty.
I will shoot over there to to the sites you gave me and do some CSI over there, Thanks for the help