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Typical house water pressure is about 50PSI so it should operate OK up to that pressure. Depending on the type of filter cartridge used, end leakage will increase as pressure increases and the cartridge might collapse. Both incidents have been reported by those using a pressure pumped system. The hand crank pump is easier, less complicated and much cheaper.
--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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Good info.
I took a look at that hand pump and the local distributor for it has it listed for over $200. I could take a chance on another cheap ($40+/-) hand pump from Northern Tool and hope this one has the correct fittings. Or I could get an $80 electric pump, install some valves and a pressure gauge to keep the pressure at the filter down...just thinking aloud. Thanks again for all the assistance I see you offer on a regular basis. Ben |
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John,
I am looking to start running a blend of VO and ULSD in my '80 MB 300CD and a '81 VW Rabbit. I live in a climate that rarely has more than four or five nights below 20 Fahrenheit. The upflow filtration unit you have linked on the first page of this thread looks like it would work great for me. Do you have any pictures or updates to this design? I will be using high quality WVO that is already filtered and low in water content. Any advice you may have would be greatly appreciated. '80 MB 300CD '81 MD 240D '81 VW Rabbit pickup '91 Toyota MR2 |
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I have been using an upflow settling tank for several months now. It is amazing how clean the WVO looks coming out. I take it from there to a centrifuge to make sure it is really clean and there usually isn't much in the centrifuge after running for several hours. This is a good testiment to how well the upflow works. You could probably achieve similar results with just a good filter after the upflow. I even run mine through a Goldenrod after the centrifuge! Better safe than sorry.
Rusty |
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jihn you have any pics of this new system addition. That you would like to share?
2006 Dodge 2500 run on 50/50 of petro diesel and blend. |
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John, nice addition. I run mine through a Goldenrod water block filter after the centrifuge. I wish I had found out about upflow settling before I spent all the money on my centrifuge but I would probably always wonder if the upflow actually worked as well, now I know and it just makes me feel good doing both.
Rusty |
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ok john
im blind in one eye ect ect. i was interested in maybe an overall picture of the system. 2006 Dodge 2500 run on 50/50 of petro diesel and blend. |
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--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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Hi, John Galt.
I have used your upflow system and would like you to take a look at some pictures and give your approval and thoughts if you have a moment. I'm pressed for space, so I got an IBC tote follwing the drum in your design. The down-pipe is 1/2", however, and a fryer cubie takes 12-14 minutes to drain. It was getting cool out when I started this system. I add 3-4 cubies per week that sit around at the same temp until I get around to adding them. The tote is 1/2 full after a month of adding to it. The upflow drum sat primed for a week before flowing to the tote. There is a fine bag strainer in the opening of the tote. Here are pictures of it in action; http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/EvansvilleBrian/B100/upflo/100_3138.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/EvansvilleBrian/B100/upflo/100_3139.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/EvansvilleBrian/B100/upflo/100_3137.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/EvansvilleBrian/B100/upflo/100_3140.jpg Thank you, Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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That looks pretty slick. Does the upflow output pass the HotPanTest?
--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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Good morning, John,
I just went out to get a 50ml sample from the top of the tote. Very clear and gold visually. I heated it up in a stainless steel pot. I didnt monitor the temp, but I got it to smoking and smelled like it could be cooked in. I had about 3-4 pops and then no more after several minutes on the burner. There were no bubbles on the bottom of the pot either. Only where the pops shot up, there were some, momentarily. My oil is very low titrating to begin with. 1g/lt to 2g/lt NaOH. I'm thinking this is working. Either way, It has to go into the tote. I cant have 10 drums out in my yard. I've been told that just seetling in the tote is a big help, so this is just an extra measure. The tote shows no seperation near the bottom. I'd like to change out the blue drum for a white one so I can see when there is too much water and sediment. Thanks for looking. Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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John (or anyone else with a working cold upflow system), in your system does the PHO settle out in the bottom of your first barrel or is it caught in the filter media between the two barrels? I ask because it has only recently turned cold here in northern Virginia and the PHO that is solidifying is continually clogging the filter between my first and second barrel, not settling out at the bottom. I'm considering adding some heat to the pipe from the upflow barrel (just before the filter) but am concerned about that merely allowing the PHO to pass through the filter and then re-solidify (?) in my settling/storage barrels. Any thoughts?
Ben 2005 Ford F250 6.0L PSD- PlantDrive conversion |
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If you had a few pops, that is way too much water (for SVO anyway, don't know about for bio)), which means your upflow system is NOT working. Did you make sure the oil you are pouring in is at a lower temp than the oil being fed? If not the new oil will go right to the top, defeating the upflow settling process. I did some test this past summer and could not get the cold upflow settling to dewater. Now that it's colder (below 50 F) maybe I'll try again if I find the time.
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With my cold upflow, if the temperature is below 50°F the PHO is either caught by the bugscreen and pantyhose prefilters or stays in the bottom of the upflow barrel. However because I couldn't always count on cold enough temperatures, I added a settling barrel between the upflow barrel and the intermediate filter. What little PHO that's dissolved in the output of the upflow settles out in the 2nd barrel when it gets cold. I pump off the top of the 2nd barrel through the intermediate filter and it doesn't get blocked. No PHO in the final filtered samples anymore.
--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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This is for Biodiesel.
I built my processor with 2 heating elements to aid in dewatering and also plan to use the glycerine pretreatment. I have an auxiliary barrel for pouring the bottom shmag from the cubies into. The cubies sit out with the tote for a few days, so the temps must be the same. Anyway, I'm getting only clear dark oil into the tote. If I'm stopping any PHO and blocking particulates,then I'm probly doing more good than some say is needed. If I had the space, I've considered a conga line of upflow drums. Maybe 3 in a row? My summers are long and hot. My wash and dry tanks are not finished yet. So, I'm just trying to get an advantage on breaking into this hobby as I collect the oil. I get Cognis QTA testing on my sample batches and this oil comes well within ASTM spec. and never emulsifies while washing. Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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This is for Biodiesel.
I built my processor with 2 heating elements to aid in dewatering and also plan to use the glycerine pretreatment. I have an auxiliary barrel for pouring the bottom shmag from the cubies into. The cubies sit out with the tote for a few days, so the temps must be the same. Anyway, I'm getting only clear dark oil into the tote. If I'm stopping any PHO and blocking particulates,then I'm probly doing more good than some say is needed. If I had the space, I've considered a conga line of upflow drums. Maybe 3 in a row? My summers are long and hot. My wash and dry tanks are not finished yet. So, I'm just trying to get an advantage on breaking into this hobby as I collect the oil. I get Cognis QTA testing on my sample batches and this oil comes well within ASTM spec. and never emulsifies while washing. Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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This is for Biodiesel.
I built my processor with 2 heating elements to aid in dewatering and also plan to use the glycerine pretreatment. I have an auxiliary barrel for pouring the bottom shmag from the cubies into. The cubies sit out with the tote for a few days, so the temps must be the same. Anyway, I'm getting only clear dark oil into the tote. If I'm stopping any PHO and blocking particulates,then I'm probly doing more good than some say is needed. If I had the space, I've considered a conga line of upflow drums. Maybe 3 in a row? My summers are long and hot. My wash and dry tanks are not finished yet. So, I'm just trying to get an advantage on breaking into this hobby as I collect the oil. I get Cognis QTA testing on my sample batches and this oil comes well within ASTM spec. and never emulsifies while washing. Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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John, it sounds like you are using three barrels now with two pumps. Upflow barrel to settling barrel #1, pump through intermediate filter (20 micron) to settling barrel #2, pump through final filter (5 micron) for use/storage. I had a three barrel set-up, then outsmarted myself and dropped one barrel.
Ben 2005 Ford F250 6.0L PSD- PlantDrive conversion |
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Your setup looks perfect for that application. --.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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