I wouldn't go to 90% unless it is well above 60F

I am thinking about our 5 months out of the year when it is above 80, especially the 3 months or more when it is well into the 90's. I think I will probably keep it more like 75/25 but will probably experiment with 90% in the really hot months. When it is so hot you can't touch your steering wheel, or even anything remotely dark on or in the car I would have to think that even 100% WVO would be pretty thin.
Rusty

quote:

Originally posted by Ga Diesel Guy:
rtarh20
i forgot to mention to you that we are furthur thinning the mix. i have a 34 gal fuel tank in the dodge. i use about 17- 20 gal of veg and 14-17 gal hwy diesel. i will not start running 90-100 until temps stay in the 70's or more

I hope the 17-20% is a blend & NOT straight WVO, because I would think viscosity would be too thick for long term engine life. Is your engine direct injected ? Thick viscosity at start up may have less of a 100% combustion, due to lack of good spray pattern. Thus causing excessive coking/carbon build up & possibly stuck rings. I'm no expert but this is a liittle of what I gathered on these discussions.

yes sir 17- 20 is a blend then that is mixed in the tank with dino . sorry bout the confusion but thats why i love this site yall always looking out for us new guys

rtarh2o, I have been running the a blend for about 1 1/2 years. I also add Power Service cetane boost. The only real problem I've had is finding a fuel pump that will hold up. I ran a vegtherm in line heater for about a week then my IP died so I disconnected the vegtherm when I installed a new IP. My heat exchanger is one that I made out of a piece of 4" stainless pipe about 7" long with a 3/8" stainless tubing coil inside of it. Also I don't use any oil that is hydrogenated.

rtarh20
i have a winter blend for temps in the 30's
15 gal wvo 1/1/2 kero 1 gal rug 12 oz diesel clean with cetain boost 3 oz dse then i added 7 gal dino. this mix is thined good and cost about 1.14 gal to make because of the dino.
i am trying to upload pics of my water seperation unit on this site but having tec. problems (may be loose screw behing the keyboard)

quote:

The only real problem I've had is finding a fuel pump that will hold up.
82 GMC P/U 6.2 running 85/15 WVO/RUG

Perhaps the vehicle IP is incompatible with the blend chosen. Has anyone analyzed the damaged IP to determine the cause of failure.

Spending some time using the search function will show that the 6.2 GM is problematic with WVO even in fully converted two tank systems, so it wouldn't be a good candidate for reliable high percent blends of WVO. The system described wouldn't provide adequate pre-heat of the fuel mix on start-up when most of the IP problems will occur.

Mixtures that will run without problems in Mercs, Toyotas, Isuzus, and VWs, will eat up Ford, GM and some Dodge IPs.

try my blend in my sig, good down to 5F and only cost me about 25 cents a gal, happy veggin

quote:

Spending some time using the search function will show that the 6.2 GM is problematic with WVO even in fully converted two tank systems, so it wouldn't be a good candidate for reliable high percent blends of WVO. The system described wouldn't provide adequate pre-heat of the fuel mix on start-up when most of the IP problems will occur.

quote:

There are alot of posts on the reliability of the 6.2 IP's. I hope dmcmmc's problem was solved when he removed the vegtherm. I read on another site that one theory about what kills the IP's is the hot oil hitting the cold IP. What happens is the (I am not sure about all the terminology) plunger shaft gets hot (from the oil) and expands before the body heats up thus causing excessive wear and failure. This makes sense and sounds like what happened to dmcmmc. I am planning to use injector heaters to heat the oil after the IP so it will be hot entering the engine but cool before. The fuel lines and filter will be coolant heated so they will warm as the engine does. I am using a Carter pump that I have been told will hold up to the thicker fuel well. I have heard the IP's hold up well to thick fuel and IP's that are worn and don't work well with diesel work great with WVO.
I my thought is that if I find the right blend to thin it out for start-up it should be fine, that blend will change seasonally too.
Any other ideas?
Rusty

quote:

75% WVO, 25% stale RUG, AMSOIL cetane boost, AMSOIL diesel fuel modifier, acetone, startron, AMSOIL cold flow improver, pure gum turpentine

veggedout, what amount of each of the above are you using? The 75% WVO I can figure out but what about the rest?
Rusty

I first mix 75% to 25% an then add 1oz to five gal of the cetane boost, diesel fuel mod and clod flow improver, 1oz to ten of acetone, 1 oz to 32 gal of startron and 5oz to 10 gal of PGT, HTH happy veggin'

Is this correct ?

Blend:
75% WVO
25% stale RUG
Additives:
[0.39%] 5oz to 10 gal of PGT pure gum turpentine,
[0.16%] 1oz to 5 gal of AMSOIL cetane boost,
[0.16%] 1oz to 5 gal AMSOIL diesel fuel mod,
[0.16%] 1oz to 5 gal AMSOIL cold flow improver,
[0.08%]1oz to 10 gal of acetone,
[0.02%]1 oz to 32 gal of startron

Great math john, thanx, yes that would be it

Wow, how did you figure all of that out and what does it all do! So do you premix it in containers and just pour in what you need? I am building a centrifuge cleaner and plan to mix my blend in it as well, from there I will probably put it into containers to put in the car, does this sound right?
Rusty

I started off with The DSE mix and started reading and exprimenting over the last 2+ years, some of these help with thinning and others with increasing ceatne, still others help with keeping the engine clean and also keeping the fuel from gelling in the winter, I adjust the thinner (stale gas) with the temp. I settle, prefilter and mix in a 55, then pump through a 20 micron and then a 5 micron and then a water block filter right into the tank, works great, HTH, happy veggin'

Where do you get the stale gas? How did you approach them about it in the first place?
Rusty

quote:

Originally posted by rtarh2o:
Where do you get the stale gas? How did you approach them about it in the first place?
Rusty

It's from boat/marine storage and repair places. They have to drain the tanks. If I recall the history of this, he ran into it by accident.

Others have since reported some success in taking his idea and asking other boat yards if they can get their stale gas. Something you might try yourself or maybe you might try a junk yard too?

quote:

rtarh2o

found it, see "free old gas"

There are some lakes around, maybe some boat storage. I will look into that and the junkyards, I keep thinking I must know someone.
Rusty

it's out there, you can also check service stations, they have to drain the tank to replace fuel pumps on most cars, happy veggin'