What do you blend with? Dino, Kero, RUG? I know may of us add additives also, such as Diesel Kleen, but what I am looking for here is what are your main ingredients? I think we can discuss percentages in another thread.

Question:
What do you blend with?

Choices:
Diesel
Kero
RUG
All the above
Other

 

I've recently gained access to about 20 sealed one gallon jugs of Penzoil Bar and Chain oil. I hate to have them go to waste. What are your thoughts on me mixing this stuff into my blend? I was thinking one gallon to every 30 of my WVO/K1/RUG blend.

One guy that I work with was wondering about adding a gallon at time to his Power Stroke when he fills up with #2 diesel in an effort to combat the effects of ULSD. Thoughts?

Finally, I also have a dozen sealed quarts of 80/90 gear lube. Would one quart to 30 gallons of blend do any harm? Too thick?

I really hope Tim Cook comments on this, as I think he has more experience then anyone when it comes to putting various fluids into the fuel tank.

Eric, I would think the bar & chain oil is OK, as is the gear oil, but the main problem may be keeping it mixed since it's such a different weight. Try mixing a jar of it and see how well it stays in suspension. If it stays suspended , I think you're fine. One issue I had was with used motor oil, for some reason the Diesel Kleen seems to react with used motor oil, and it caused the motor oil (or at least the dark part of the motor oil) to drop out to the bottom of the barrel when mixed. I noticed this because when the used motor oil was mixed in it made the whole blend very dark, almost black. After a few days, I noticed it had cleared and I had a black coating on the bottom of the drum when I finished off that batch.

P.S., save me a gallon of that bar oil, I have a chain saw...

B.K.,
I'll bring you a gallon when we put your ILHs on my MB or when we adjust those valves again this spring, which ever comes first.

I have a similiar concern about the seperation. That's why I will definitly make the mix in the 55 gallon drum and let everything sit for a few days before I pump off of the top. That concern is also why I told my co-worker I wasn't sure how the oil would mix being just poured into his truck's fuel tank with diesel. Especially the gear lube.

quote:

in an effort to combat the effects of ULSD. Thoughts?

Your buddy is misinformed about ULSD and has it confused with old LSD. ULSD has lubricity additives already mixed in at the refinery, LSD did not.

So therefore he could dump just about anything into the tank that won't hurt the engine and still believe he's combating the effects of ULSD. Sticking a banana in his ear would be equally effective.

You didn't have the options that I use. I primarily blend with RUG plus a tiny bit of mineral spirits.

When it gets cold, I cut it with some Kero.

My oil has a lot of fat in it.

What's the reasoning behind the mineral spirits?

I read a post somewhere about xylene allowing a water block filter to catch suspeneded water. I'm not sure if I believe the claim, but I'm adding about 4 ounces of xylene per 30 gallons of WVO.

Are mineral spirits paint thinner??

Detailed blend history and testing is HERE.

Mineral Spirits is the same as most paint thinners. It seems to disolve fats as well as or better than RUG. I had several gallons around not being used so I am using it in blending.

The RUG that I use is gasohol, 10% ethanol. (E10??)

With 80% high animal fat waste soy oil and 20% RUG with about 1% mineral spirits added (all blended WARM) I have no problems at 32 degrees F overnight.

By the way, I am only using the blend in the startup tank of a two tank heated system.

I start with wvo filtered settled for 1-3 weeks (the longer the better) with a 5 micron bag. For every 10 gallons of filtered oil I use 1-2 gallons of kerosene (use more when it gets colder), 0.5 gallons of gasoline, 7 ounces power service diesel kleen, 4 ml of Kathon FP1.5 aviation (antibiotic). I bought 80 bucks worth of the DSE "secret" ingredient and have been using that, but it is not necessary. I think you can add chevron's fuel injector cleaner once a year and it will do a better job than the secret ingredient. After blending, I put it through 5 micron and 2 micron whole house filters and goldenrod water block filter. Approaching 18,000 miles on mercedes benz 300D. Only problems have been fuel filter plugging at 6000 and 8000 miles, (but the Kathon seems to have cured this) and the engine shutting down when it gets down to about 1/4 of a tank because it thinks the tank is empty. This shutting down problem first happened at 16,000 miles and has happened twice since when I thought it was over it. When it happens, I just add a couple of gallons of fuel to the tank and off she goes like nothing happened. Tim and some others say that you can do this with direct injection, others say you should not, so curiosity got the best of me and I just went out and bought a 2000 VW jetta TDI. I will let you know how it goes.

I havent taken the time to read all these posts. I must say however that all ULSD doesnt have the lubricity additives. Adding just a little vegoil or biodiesel will fix that problem. You wouldnt need anywhere near a gallon of oil in a tank to help. Over the counter fuel additives only recommend a few ounces to 150 gallons of fuel.

I must also take issue with the idea that ear bannanas will have an effect on USLD. I will take the time to argue that point at a later date.

Bulk suppliers statements. Additives are put in by bulk truck drivers at the discrection of their employer or customer(retail outlet). Truck stop A may have them in. Truck stop B may not. Some even have signs on the pumps that they add Power Service or other product directly to the bulk tanks.

ASTM D975-04c Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils
has been adopted by all States.

Similar standards exist in Canada and Europe.

from:
http://www.cppi.ca/ULSD_Q_A_s.html

Q18. Because the process of removing sulphur from diesel tends to reduce lubricity, what is being done to adjust for this problem?

A: Lubricity is a measure of the fuel's ability to protect the various parts of the engine's fuel injection system from excessive wear. The processing required to reduce sulphur to 15 ppm also tends to remove naturally occurring lubricity agents in diesel fuel. To manage this change, the Canadian General Standards Board has a lubricity specification defined in CAN/CGSB-3.517 for all diesel fuel that has been in effect for many years (in the U.S. the equivalent standard is ASTM D975 as issued by ASTM International). If a fuel lacks sufficient lubricity, suppliers add lubricity additives to ULSD, or to the RSD, to ensure that it meets the required lubricity specification when dispensed at the retail pump. This approach has been used successfully in Europe since the late 1990s.
Q19. How do I know that the lubricity additive works? Is it expected to meet certain standards for effectiveness? If so, what are they?

A: All diesel fuel, including ULSD, needs to meet the lubricity specifications defined in the Canadian General Standards Board CAN/CGSB-3.517. The lubricity specification can be met based on any one of five test methods, including the High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR) test (D 6079) which requires a wear scar no larger than 460 microns (which is more stringent than the ASTM D975 specification of 520 microns).


That's not to say that some cheap retailers may sell non spec. fuel, as in the past.
There are, of course, penalties for selling non spec fuel which vary from state to state.
That problem is rare in Canada and Alaska, perhaps it's common where Mr flyingpig lives.

Have gone 2000 miles on the 2000 jetta using 18% kerosene. When the temp hit 16 degrees it was hard to start, and I had to jump it a couple of times, but once she started everything ran fine. If I knew it was going to get into the teens at night, I would have to put it in the garage if I wanted to start it without jumping it. The problem with the mercedes (18,000+ miles now) shutting down stopped after I added Chevron's diesel fuel system cleaner. This may mean that I will run into some long-term problems in the future, but for now everything is running okay. I will continue to keep you posted.

Has anyone heard the rumor that Diesel Secret is just Sta-Bil repackaged? It makes sense, if the Sta-Bil actually does what it says on the bottle(prevent decantation) Has anyone used Sta-Bil when blending?

quote:

Originally posted by Phylarch:
Has anyone heard the rumor that Diesel Secret is just Sta-Bil repackaged? ..

Do a search on Diesel Secret in here. There is a complete chemical breakdown as to what is in it in here somewhere. I'm sure it is in the SVO forum. You can find the same thing about Sta-Bil on the net somewhere (or bottle?) and then compare them. Would love to hear what you find out about this.

StaBil comes up as 95% hydrotreated light naphthenic petroleum distillates and 5% "secret ingredients" while DSE is dimethylbenzene and naphthalene. Do you really want any of this in your engine?

Posted 19 August 2005 06:51 PM Hide Post
I was able to cut & paste off my old W95 SYS. here is the actual MSDS info I was sent.

DSE additive Material Safety Data Sheet
General
Synonyms: dimethylbenzene, xylol
Molecular formula: C6H4(CH3)2 This is a mixture of the three xylenes, m-xylene (CAS 108-38-3), o-xylene (CAS 95-47-6) and p-xylene (CAS 106-42-3), and often also contains ethyl bezene (CAS 100-41-4).
CAS No: 1330-20-7
EINECS No:
Physical data
Appearance: colourless liquid
Melting point: -48 C
Boiling point: 137 C
Vapour density: 3.7 (air = 1)
Vapour pressure: 5.1 mm Hg at 20 C
Density (g cm-3): 0.87
Flash point: 27 C (closed cup)
Explosion limits: 1.1 - 7%
Autoignition temperature:
Water solubility:
Stability
Stable. Highly flammable - incompatible with strong oxidizing agents.
Toxicology
Harmful if swallowed or inhaled. Eye, skin and respiratory irritant. May act as a narcotic. Typical TLV/TWA 100 ppm.
Toxicity data
(The meaning of any abbreviations which appear in this section is given here.)

ORL-RAT LD50 4300 mg kg-1
SCU-RAT LD50 1700 mg kg-1
Transport information
Personal protection
Safety glasses, good ventilation. Remove sources of ignition from the working area

General
Synonyms: albocarbon, mighty 150, mighty rd1, moth flakes, NCI-C52904, white tar, naphthalin, naphthene, camphor tar, tar camphor, moth balls
Molecular formula: C10H8
CAS No: 91-20-3
EC No: 202-049-5
Physical data
Appearance: white crystals
Melting point: 77 C
Boiling point: 218 C
Specific gravity: 1.14
Vapour pressure: 1 mm Hg at 20 C
Vapour density: 4.4 g/l
Flash point: 88 C
Explosion limits: 0.9 - 5.9%
Autoignition temperature:
Stability
Stable. Flammable - avoid sources of ignition. Incompatible with oxidising agents. Heat-sensitive. Sublimes slowly at room temperature.
Toxicology
May cause irritation. Toxic by inhalation or ingestion. TLV 10 ppm. Sensitizer. Possible carcinogen.
Toxicity data
(The meaning of any abbreviations which appear in this section is given here.)

ORL-CHD LDLO 100 mg kg-1
UNR-HMN LDLO 29 mg kg-1
ORL-MUS LD50 533 mg kg-1
IVN-MUS LD50 100 mg kg-1
ORL-RBT LD50 3000 mg kg-1
Irritation data
EYE-RBT 100 mg/mld
SKN-RBT 495 mg open mld
Risk phrases
(The meaning of any risk phrases which appear in this section is given here.)

R20 R21 R22 R36 R37 R38 R43 R45.
Personal protection
Safety glasses. Use efficient ventilation.

It seems that Sta-Bil 1104NEW is Isopropanol 67-3-0 at 95%
Until 1996, It was Sta-Bil 1104, when it was Naptha 647-42-94-6 at 95-100%

simple MSDS search on the net.

Isopropanol has popped up a few times in the forum as an additive, as has mothballs. So I guess some of the rumor was true until 1996!

Now, the question is, will it help keep my 50/50 Veg/Diesel from seperating while I take a vacation?