quote:

I recall reading about a volcano eruption in the Pacific, scientists claimed it put out as much pollution as 100 years of industry.

That's not what I've read in published reporst by scientists. Vocanic eruptions have been observed/monitored and Total emissions from volcanoes on land are estimated to average just 0.3 Gt of CO2 each year - about a hundredth of human emissions.

This is from New Scientist and can be found here. Just scroll down to "Volcanic misunderstanding" and you can find the links to the scientific reports if you care to read them.

Point is the scientists around the world are convinced (with a mountain of data to support their position) on whats happening. The problem occuurs in delivery of the message to the general public and while the "peer review process" works well for them they have no sutible forum to get this message out. The media is more interested in hyping any story (since they want to sell their product and advertising revenues along with it) to deliver the message properly. Add this to the deliberate disinformation campain being waged by PR firms and astroturf sites around the web and the public is left confused about the facts.

quote:

Originally posted by john galt:

AGW is an acronym for Anthropogenic Global Warming [aka Al Gore Wierdness], the misguided belief that humans are causing the natural warming of the planet since the end of the last ice age some 15,000 years ago. They probably also believe that Neanderthals drove SUVs.

Global Warming [and Global Cooling] are natural processes that have been going on for billions of years.

Attacting Al doesn't change change any of the evidence,It just diverts attention away from it, plain and simple. Part of a plan?

Of course the world has warmed and cooled in the past that is an etablished fact. It's also a fact that it took thousands of years to acomplish. It's also a fact that the planet has never warmed at this curent rate in all of the historic records and when it has warmed appreciably 90% of the plant,marine and animal life went extinct.

You post absolutly no science on this being Natual yet you make this claim over and over again.

No science debate there,just a belief system at work verging on incredible at times

quote:

Originally posted by john galt:

Your graph is clearly misrepresented Johnny, care to tell us where you got it from? It conveniently stops around 1800, long before the effects of co2 became obvious and means nothing other than to show the temp before now

Here's a dozen diferent reconstuctions of the past 1000 years using a variaty of methods or proxies



The source can be found here

They all show the same thing and the observed temperature is clearly higher than it's ever been before. so why post a meaningless graph? You've been at this too long to claim it's a mistake.

An unbiased mind would spot this right away

Now back on topic.......

quote:

I know it's possible for the IP to have gone bad again but I would think I'd of had some sign, rough running or hard starting, poor MPG. I drove it about 30 miles, got off the freeway and parked it, came out an hour later and hard to start and it's just gotten worse from there. Weird eh?

It could be the run solinoid Under the cap of the IP sticking but I would get the GP's working just to eliminate that problem first. Once that's done I can try to talk you through testing/replacing it.

You can't buy the solinoid,at least I was never able to find one (and that was years ago) but if you have your old pump you may be able to salvage it if it's any good. I've seen those pumps quit at idle due to the govenor or internal linkage wearing out but they would start right back up again with a little throttle. Doesn't sound like your problem though since the fuel seems to be spitting out the line at the injector when you undoo it.

Question; when you checked for fuel spitting out was it about a 1/2" line of fuel? You should see a line of fuel about that long squirt out if it's injecting properly. any less and they are not getting enough to start. I've been fooled on that one before

Dan,


No I don't think it's half a line of fuel, but I also don't recall it being that much when I installed the new pump and bled the lines.

I agree on getting the GP's working, I soldered up a heavy jumper line late last night and will install after work tonight. The plan is to use this and eventually put a fuse inline. This should get the GP's working.

Van started fine this morning with a shot of ether, just a light mist really. I confirmed no power to the GP's before doing this. I will see how it starts at lunch.

I have the old pump, been toying with rebuilding it myself as I have a small machine shop here at work. I need to find sources for the parts I will need as well as some instructions, I suppose I could find all this on the internet if I knew what to search for, maybe DB2 rebuild? I'm also toying with making some beefier parts during a rebuild as something clearly broke with the engine running, possibly even the pump shaft. It would be nice to "toughen up" the pump to better handle higher viscosities of blends. Thus far I haven't even found an exploded diagram but truthfully haven't searched very hard.

I clearly have much to learn about climate change and I enjoy learning. Can you point me to any particular forums/websites that would be of interest to a "newbie" like me?

As a side note, my father is a retired NASA engineer, during the fuel shortages of the '70's he tells me he was looking into things like castor oil as a replacement for jet fuel. Of course when the price of oil subsequently dropped all that was abandoned. Imagine where we'd be if tha research and research like it had been continued to be fully funded and pursued for these past 30 years.

Congrats to you,and your wife.

quote:

I agree on getting the GP's working, I soldered up a heavy jumper line late last night and will install after work tonight. The plan is to use this and eventually put a fuse inline. This should get the GP's working.

You will need a rather large fuse. The GP's draw about 250 amps at first then as they heat up the draw goes down to less than half. I don't remember just how low they went (sometimers ) but the drop is substantial over 20 seconds or so. I think that's why ford went with two wires and fuesable links to handle the current. Properly wired and routed to advoid melt through of the insulation will be fine for awhile but the standard disclaimer applies.

quote:

I have the old pump, been toying with rebuilding it myself as I have a small machine shop here at work. I need to find sources for the parts I will need as well as some instructions, I suppose I could find all this on the internet if I knew what to search for, maybe DB2 rebuild? I'm also toying with making some beefier parts during a rebuild as something clearly broke with the engine running, possibly even the pump shaft. It would be nice to "toughen up" the pump to better handle higher viscosities of blends. Thus far I haven't even found an exploded diagram but truthfully haven't searched very hard.

If I remember correctly they are a Stanadyne (sp?) pump and we were getting them rebuilt in the area for about 350 bucks each. That could be all different now that those IP's are less common but it might be worth looking around. If you can rebuild it then more power to you, having a machine shop must be nice,I'd love to have one to play in myself

quote:

I clearly have much to learn about climate change and I enjoy learning. Can you point me to any particular forums/websites that would be of interest to a "newbie" like me?

An unbiased mind, refreshing to say the least. Sure, There are a number of Resources available on the web, the trick is sorting out the real science from the opinions and that can be tough to do with all the propaganda getting in the way.

A good place to start on the history is The Discovery of Global Warming from 2 hundred years ago to present by SPENCER R. WEART ( a physicist and a noted historian specializing in the history of modern physics and geophysics. Until his retirement in 2009 he was Director of the Center for History of Physics of the American Institute of Physics)

A site I read is realclimate. This site is run by climatologist themselfs and dives right in to the nuts and bolts of the science. It can get pretty involved with the math and equations involved but is probably the most trusted and reliable site on the web. You can start-here for the basics and here's an index that goes indepth on the elements of global warming.

Here's a page from New Scientist that debunks the common myths floating around now and is more for the layman.

Climate change: A guide for the perplexed

All kinds of links in all sites to find the original research, enough reading to keep busy for some time

quote:

As a side note, my father is a retired NASA engineer, during the fuel shortages of the '70's he tells me he was looking into things like castor oil as a replacement for jet fuel. Of course when the price of oil subsequently dropped all that was abandoned. Imagine where we'd be if tha research and research like it had been continued to be fully funded and pursued for these past 30 years.

Yeah, we've pissed away a lot of time on cheep oil. It appears That time is over imo

Well same trouble today, seems to be getting worse. I've got the GP's working though, used a 60" battery cable. I'm really starting to suspect the IP which sucks cause I put this used one in there like a month and a half ago. From the research I've done I could likely rebuild it myself but would be unable to calibrate it. I can get a rebuilt for anywhere between 300 and 700 dollars which I don't have right now. I'm gonna try and start it in about an hour and see what happens, it's been sitting with the hood up for 6 hours. Fuel out of the filter head is nearly clear so there is hardly any WMO or WVO in it.

Used engine oil can be acidic. Just a general observation. You're probably on the right track with pumps being the problem. Rotary pumps have issues with alternative fuels. They were designed for very specific diesel fuel parameters.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: john galt,

John,

True enough but I've only run 5 gallons through it, not even that much considering theres some still in the tank.

I've been reading up on these pumps, pretty interesting really. Turns out they have a rotary vane pump called the transfer pump that sends fuel to the high pressure pump. Not enough fuel from the transfer pump and the high pressure pump won't pump enough. Holley pumps are rotary vane, the trouble I've always had with them is sticking vanes, plays havoc on setting a carb as the pressure goes up an down or ceases entirely. Looking at the various pictures and diagrams here: http://www.oliverdiesel.com/tech/howdb2pumpworks.htm and here: http://www.dieselpowermag.com/...tion_pump/index.html leads me to suspect the vane pump. There's and added variable: I use a holley electric pump as a lift pump, this does not run when cranking meaning the transfer pump has to work harder when cranking. I'm gonna jumper the lift pump to always on and see if a little pressure at the transfer pump inlet doesn't help during cranking. If this is the case then I can take apart my old pump and rebuild it if I can get the parts (haven't found a rebuild kit yet). Essentially nothing will work right without proper housing pressure from the transfer pump. Once the engine is running the transfer pump likely makes enough pressure to operate everything else. I could I suppose try two other tests. First bypass attach the lift pump pickup to a bucket of ATF with a little diesel but not much, the thicker fluid should decrease internal leakage. Second I have a racecar high pressure fuel injection pump which could be put in place of the current lift pump giving me 90psi instead of 5 at the transfer pump inlet, this would effectively take over the pumping action of the transfer pump. I think the old pump broke the main shaft. It broke on an unusually cold morning with a high blend on a day I didn't plug in the van, everything cold. A block from home it just cut out. The shaft on the old one spins real easy vs. the replacement which has some resistance (like it's doing something). Can't help but wonder if the transfer pump section of the old pump is still good enough to put into the replacement pump. This would get me going until I can afford to have a pump rebuilt, or rebuild it myself. I know I can make a shaft, probably better and stronger than original. LOL maybe there's a market for WVO/WMO heavy duty Stanadyne pumps.

Forgot to mention: my thinking is the more I've thinned this fuel the worse the problem is which leads me to internal leakage in one of the pumps or regulators. The stock pump has provisions to overcome this with hot fuel by means of a bimetallic spring. Trying the ATF would have the effect of reducing clearance leakage.

Well after much searching I've found a rebuild kit for $47. I've also found a local diesel repair shop that is also a rebuilder and Stanadyne dealer. At this point I figure there is little harm in tearing down my old pump and attempting to rebuild it. Despite being a hobby machinist I am rather accomplished and I've rebuild a lot of things over the years. I made my own 36mm venturis for Zenith carbs I have installed on a 3.0SC engine in a old Porsche 911 that I've had since my oldest was very little. Made those on the little lathe at work before we got the big 20". My friend with a much newer EFI 911 prefers my car as the throttle is much more crisp. Point is I am a fast learner once I get the basics down. I figure tearing the pump apart and rebuilding it will give me lots of incite on how it works and where it could be improved for WVO/WMO use. Worst case I get it repaired and have to have it calibrated, best case it runs just fine or better than before. This van just flipped 102K miles but had a lot of time idling as a bucket truck as indicated by the hour meter so real "mileage" is likely more like 150K. Little is known about the replacement other than that the rollover truck it came out of was running when it was brought to the junkyard. When I installed it in the van it ran better than it ever had indicating the original pump was well worn. The GP's appear new and the injectors are Ford reman's as evidenced by the stickers on them. Wish me luck, the WMO guy called today and he has a full drum of WMO and half drum of WATF waiting for me. I had the idea of driving down there with my wife's SUV and a trailer to get the drums when I could just put them in the van, just don't trust it to make the 50 mile round trip in the condition it's in now.

From what I have read about the Ford Stanadyne pump it seems that the pump's primary drive shaft deliberately has a thin spot machined into it so it will twist off under excess load, I assume this is supposed to save the internal components, don't know. This seems to be the most common failure with these pumps with heavy fiels. My friend here always shuts down after purging with diesel so has not had any problems during startups, he only switches to the blend once the engine is completely warmed up.

I have searched ebay for IP's and injectors for his vehicle several times, I have found USED Ford 6.9/7.3 IP's (same pump, search Ebay for both, also try a search for International and Navistar) for as little as $100.00 but usually closer to $150.00. Keep checking back as these sales are usually "buy it now" and they sell fast.

Just did THIS search for Ford 7.3 and found 5 rebuilt pumps from rebuilders for as little as $265.00, the $295.00 one says they are overstocked on this pump, no shipping charge and no core required, didn't check the other sales. This search for Ford 6.9 found one rebuilt IP for $265.00. A search using International injection pump found one for the Ford 7.3 for $199.00 plus $15.00 shipping, again, no core needed.

Based on my searches for rebuild kits for my first-gen Dodge Cummins Bosch rotary IP I dought the $47.00 price for the kit you found will include anything more than just the gaskets for the pump, that is all I have found for around that price for the Bosh pump, the rebuilder sites always state that if the Bosh core pump being returned has the intenal rotary head galled they will still charge the full core charge, apparently they can't get these internal parts either, at least not at a reasonable price.

John - I believe antigravity IS a reality, as are laser weapons, both high power (megawatt) (C-130 airborn tactical laser) (Boeing 747 airborn laser), as well as man portable (PHAZER weapon - DAZZLER weapon), and apparently so is cold fusion, also true invisability cloaks and controllable optical invisability coatings (background matching) for aircraft. Projects that are being openly discussed are usually at least 2 generations older than what is in development.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tim c cook,

quote:

I believe antigravity IS a reality

Quite possibly, however I was referring to anti gravity, i.e. the disbelief that gravity is real.
There are people who refuse to believe the obvious, like the simple fact that the planet has been warming since the last ice age ended.

HHMMM,I will have to think a bit about that distinction, didn't realize there were folks that disputed the existance of gravity, guess they never fall down?

I don't buy the idea that global warming is caused mainly be man burning fossil fuel but it likely does contribute somewhat. Unfortunatly from some scientific research it appears that it may not actually take thousands of years to shift the environment, some research seems to indicate that it can happen catastroficly over as little as a few years once a tipping point is reached, hope not. Whatever happens. the planet will survive, and it will force the equilibrium equation back into balance.

A funny thing happened on the way to saving the world’s poor from the ravages of global warming. The poor told the warming alarmists to get lost.
http://online.wsj.com/article/...327992553917308.html

Spoke with a pump rebuilder today, my symptoms indicate a worn pressure head not a bad transfer pump. He also indicated that the primary reason these seem to be failing is the new ULSD fuel which does not lubricate the pump properly. I get the impression that a thick blend might have been covering up the problem until it got bad enough. My old pump appears to have the broken shaft, this is the one he recommended rebuilding as the pressure heads are very pricey. Anyway he wanted $495 to rebuild it. There seem to be lots of opinions over at thedieselstop.com as to who sells junk rebuilds and who is quality. I'm thinking I'll save a few bucks and get one of the cheap ones Tim found with no core charge. This would leave me with two broken/worn pumps with seemingly different problems, perhaps enough to assemble one good working spare or at least a good core to trade in for one of the high end pumps down the line like the "moose" pump which is a modified stock pump for better performance. Rebuild kits are just seals and gaskets. While it might be worth it to take the pumps apart I still wouldn't be able to properly calibrate it for which one place charges $200. Either way I'm hoping I can drive it another couple of weeks while I get the cash together to order a pump. I figure I'll drain the tank and put in a heavy blend and see if that will keep it going for a little while longer.

John, interesting article on China. The sad story is the American production workers who will continue to lose jobs overseas to countries who won't implement expensive environmental and safety programs.

quote:

The sad story is the American production workers who will continue to lose jobs overseas to countries who won't implement expensive environmental and safety programs.

Equally sad is the attitude of Americans who insist on buying cheap import products instead of products made by their neighbors. They don't seem to mind that those products are often toxic, or produced by slave labor in prisons, or by factories that pollute, just as long as they're cheap. That's what's driven companies overseas, and as a result it's becoming increasingly difficult to buy domestically produced goods. That attitude is a lot like shooting at one's feet in a rowboat.

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the primary reason these seem to be failing is the new ULSD fuel which does not lubricate the pump properly.

That's a frequent comment. I guess a lot of US refiners are producing ULSD which does not meet the ASTM lubricity specification. In any case adding a few percent of BD or VO provides all the lubricity required.

quote:

Unfortunatly from some scientific research it appears that it may not actually take thousands of years to shift the environment, some research seems to indicate that it can happen catastroficly over as little as a few years once a tipping point is reached, hope not.

Yes the PETM about 55 million years ago was an example of this. That's why there's a lot of research going on now into this as it most closly resembles whats happening now. Once past the tipping point it only took a few decades to climb something like 7 degrees C.

quote:

Originally posted by john galt:
There are people who refuse to believe the obvious

I can agree with that

quote:

like the simple fact that the planet has been warming since the last ice age ended.

Nope, it doesn't happen that way. Once the temperature spikes, and does so quite quickly after the ice age it steadily drops into the next ice age with minor variations of course but the fact is it never steadily warms up, at least not in the last 8 ice ages that have been studied by scientists. We appear to be creating a deviation from that cycle though



I try to get my facts straight on this subject, it can be daunting at times sifting through all the information but I have learned to stay away from opinion articles in the media, it's not a good source on whats realy going on