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Member |
I use a lower rad hose type of block heater.
The 1000W heater in your example will cost about 10 cents per hour if your electricity rate is 10 cents per kilowatt-hour. What exactly is your question? --.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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Just wondering if this is a good option ie will it get hot enough to help with the harder starting caused by the colder ( mid 20's this week) weather I have not been running blend because of this When I hook the heater up I plan adding more coolant hose and running it along the fuel lines
1997 ford 7.3 turbo psd 2wd 155,000 ext cab long box for sale $4000 obo |
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I am using your cold upflow setting and having good results but have been running a 50/50 blend
1997 ford 7.3 turbo psd 2wd 155,000 ext cab long box for sale $4000 obo |
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I apologize, but I still don't understand the question. Any form of engine pre-heating will help with cold starting in temperatures below freezing. --.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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Miller0613,
Do I read you correctly that you are using house AC power to run an ancillary (outside the car) 1000W heater/pump to warm the engine block coolant? If it is on-board (12V DC?) or off (AC) would make a big difference in cost effectiveness. If you are using house mains, do you have a 220V option? Using 110V AC will double the overall amps required to acheive the heat you want. If you are talking about house mains power, I agree with john's suggestion of a lower radiator hose or some kind of a block heater (blanket wraps - the stock heaters are often very hard to install retroactively). Another high wattage option I like to use when my car has sat in the cold overnight is to use a hair dryer and blow hot air into the intake for a couple minutes, sometimes even running it while I crank the starter. Aloha! |
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I save a few cents on preheating the truck with a timer from home cheapo. I have it set to kick in 3 hours before I leave home in the morning. This way, I can plug it in when I get home, but don't use any electricity until 5 am.
You can call me Steve |
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If that's the type of heater that circulates the coolant then I asume it's the kind that installs in the vehicle heater circut which is an easy install,just cut the hose and install the pre heater in each end (mindfull of direction). I have used them up here before I went 12 volt and they work exellent.
The timer is also a good idea. There's no point in running a heater all night when it will warm up in 2 or 3 hours anyway. Over the course of a month it should show up on the hydro bill as a savings
Use that idea myself when I need to get the odd school bus going in the morning. DI's like to have a shot of warm air for sure,it makes a big difference at 40 below 12 years off the grid and counting |
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Yes, miller0613, a block heater will help with cold starting, which it sounds like you have already working. And, putting it on a timer, like Mysubrattles, is a good idea as well, because I found my block heater only needs 2 hours to get to terminal temperature when the ambient was at 32F (0c).
miller0613, since you are running 50% #2 at 50% of a blend of 20kero/80wvo, and the ambient temperatures have dropped into the 20s in Michigan, where you are, then it seems like you could be a little more aggressive with your solvent, and cut the WVO by 30-50% with Kerosene. Doing so might make your engine start better in the cold. Even 50/50 K/VO, the way you are mixing that with 50% D2, means you will not see more than 25%K in your fuel. |
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12Vdan, Sure does! I haven't used one on a DI in those temps, but that is good to hear. Last Winter I showed a local olive oil presser w/a VW TDI that trick to get him going again. He had adventurously poured a couple of old bottles of some AMAZINGLY delicious extra virgin North California olive oil (lucky b@st@rd! Aloha! |
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