I have 200 gallons of high quality WVO stacked up as the temperature has gone down. I added a heating element with a 74 degree thermostat, and now I can [1 micron] filter the oil again.

I was running 50 WVO/50 Diesel during the summer but once temperatures dropped I stopped running any WVO.

I plan on testing between 5-20% RUG in VO in two containers, just to see what viscosity and observable results I can produce. One outside in the cold, one in room temperature.

Hypothesis: Without ANYTHING but filtering and dewatering the oil, I believe adding RUG should make the oil 100% "runable" in cold temperatures.

Anyone with experience, chime in!

Josh

quote:

Without ANYTHING but filtering and dewatering the oil, I believe adding RUG should make the oil 100% "runable" in cold temperatures.

With some kinds of used VO, in some temperatures, with some vehicles, that mix will work just fine.

Convert your engine and use two tanks.Gasoline even at 5% always gave me trouble.Cold filter your oil to remove animal fats.

20% RUG should work okay, in theory. Have you tried it?

quote:

Convert your engine and use two tanks.

Not Applicable here. This is the General Blending Discussion section of the forum.

quote:

Originally posted by TimelessAG:
20% RUG should work okay, in theory. Have you tried it?

Yes, on many occasions and for some time. I used it as my standard blend when I first started blending and it was OK but I came to learn that 15% and under is best for my, and I assume the majority of other vehicles.

I often throw 4-5% Rug in my Oil tank in my SVO conversion because it gives me better performance which I believe is due to it lighting off sooner than the wvo and bringing the timing forward that is delayed by the burning characteristics of WVO itself. Many will argue with this opinion however.

5% WVO should not give any trouble nor would I think at least 10% but all vehicles and the conditions they are driven in are different so testing is essential. I would keep the RUG as low as possible to give good starts and if you have to go over 15%, add a non volatile agent like Disel, Kero or Bio to get your blend where you want it to be.

I also suggest you vary your blends according to the conditions ( more thinner in winter, less in summer) throughout the year as there is no best, all year round blend.

My fuel blend uses naphtha instead of gasoline, stale petrol stinks. The amount of naphtha varies from 5% in the summer to 15% in the winter. There is a noticeable power loss at 15% but it helps give clean cold starts, especially at -25.

Well I blend 30% diesel into my wvo,always with heat and wvo tank.Wmo its 70% diesel.

Sigh.. blending does NOT = fuel heating.

It's not needed, lets get this technology moving forward.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9751014871/m/8841094582

I agree blending is to remove the need for heating, but what does it hurt to add a little heat? I am still up in the air about whether to add heat to my Mercedes but did have a heated filter on my 6.2 Land Cruiser. I couldn't use rug to blend with though so may not go with heat this time.
Rusty

I plan to hit one million miles with mine.
Can't be too careful.
Besides gasoline is the opposite of diesel.I back fired one time with only one gal mixed in with 70 wvo the rest diesel.That scared me.

How important is engine longevity?
Is it acceptable to start with difficulty, run rough and belch smoke for a few minutes, as long as it smooths out and seems to run OK after a while?
Is injector fouling and IP damage from wet, untested VO not a problem?
Is it an old MB with nearly half a million miles, or a newer computerized vehicle?

quote:

Originally posted by TimelessAG:
Sigh.. blending does NOT = fuel heating.

It's not needed, lets get this technology moving forward.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9751014871/m/8841094582

You seem to have some grudge against fuel heating for some reason. There are a lot of things that aren't needed but are done anyway because they help or reduce the chances of problems.

While I Believe that it is entirely possible to run an MB engine on straight oil with no heating as long as one waits till the engine is fully and completely warmed up, I have run blends and then added a small heater and found an improvement even in weather that is a lot warmer than a many other places. I'm far more interested in results that benefit my engine than subscribing to some " Law" that I shouldn't heat with a blend.

The blends I ran worked well enough. I just found that heating them slightly allowed them to work a little better at intermediate stages of the warm up process.

As I see it, a blend is going to have a generally significant proportion of oil. There is no argument that oil works far better when heated so why not heat it? I found adding a HE was simple and straightforward and nothing like the work involved in doing a full conversion. I suppose if adding a HE is beyond some peoples Mechanical abilities they may be very keen to use a blend that will be fine without any modification to their vehicle but for others, this small, inexpensive addition to the fuel system may be no big deal and well worth the minimal time and effort.

Are you infering that the link to the post you wrote is technology that should be developed? If it is, I think you are a bit behind the times. Rons Upflow design that John has posted much info on and Suns CF process is a far greater leap in technology than the system you are proposing mucking round with jeans filters and adding RUG which you will then throw away when it settles out in the unuseable portion of your blend.

What about dewatering? The system you advocate makes no mention of that and with the added RUG, it would be impossible to test for it using conventional HP methods. I like to be able to check my oil is water free not just be limited to taking it for granted and trusting a process which is reliant on the feedstock being the same as last time.

Having read your method, I think I'll stick to just presettling, upflow settling, running the oil through my dryer and filtering processor and pumping it into my drums ready for use. Seems a whole load easier, more reliable and far less messy to me. So far my Filter bag and water filter are coming up to surpassing the 2000L mark and haven't needed changing.
If you are running as collected oil straight through a 1UM filter, you either have highly unusually clean oil that I seriously doubt many people would be lucky enough to get or, you are changing those filters every 20 gal of oil.

All the "refuse" that drops out of my variable oil supplies is contained in the bottom of the tanks which is easy and clean to pump into drums to give to a bio maker friend or just to dispose of if it's too wet or contaminated.

I only worry about 1 layer of oil and that is the clean, clear stuff at the top which is what I use.

I concur with what DCS states. I use a similar system to produce clear clean dry oil, and as well I haven't needed to clean or replace the canvas bag filter or 5µ final filter after processing hundreds of gallons.
I found that adding heat with a FPHE after the fuel feed pump on the pressurized side of the fuel system made the VO, kerosene, naphtha, diesel blend run even better, especially in the cold. Because the heat is added on the pressure side, there have been no problems with the volatile components in the blend.