I was told by a local bd maker that I should take out the magnesium rod at the top of the heater. The hex bolt is under one of the plastic covers on the top of the water heater and very hard to get out.

Do I really need to remove this?

Thanks.

You don't really "have to", but we often do, and it gives us an extra port to work with which is often very nice for variations on the designs.

Heres the deal:

-Anode rods are often zinc

-zinc causes changes in the biodiesel that make it have a shorter shelf life (ie make it prone to oxidation and polymerisation). I believe it acts as a catalyst in that case

Now, the real-world situation:

-most homebrewers dont make enough fuel for it to really need a 'shelf life' . 40 or 70 gallons batches don't really sit around for very long

-the process by which the biodiesel will break down in storage is not all that rapid (it'll vary wildly with different oils, but it's not like you only have two weeks to use it or anything, more on the order of months)

-if you're nervous about storing biodiesel and it's shelf life, do 'normal' titrations (like you're titrating waste oil) on the fuel once in a while (assuming it's washed- unwashed fuel has alkaline soap in it so the titration is meaningless). If you see the free fatty acid level (ie titration) go up, the fuel is starting to break down.

-if fuel breaks down due to poor storage, Magnesol (www.fryerpower.com) has been used to 'fix it', at least in industry and laboratory research

but, you're very unlikely to run into this scenario anyway

**************

to take out the anode rod:

-you need a 1 1/16" socket wrench, dont' attempt this with a crescent wrench or a pipe wrench

-on some water heaters you might need to remove the sheet metal top temporarily. You'll be able to put it back on later, as you'll need it to land the electrical heater power source.

-I remove it this way:
first take out a side port piece of plumbing (such as the drain at the bottom, or the old safety relief if its on the side of the tank), then I stick a long pipe into that side port, and turn the tank on it's side on the floor.

The pipe I just put in keeps the tank from rolling. THen it's easier to deal with any stick plumbing on the top of the tank.

if you use a long large-diameter pipe (fence post for instance) as a cheater bar slipped over the end of your socket wrench, it'll give you mechanical advantage and make the anode easier to remove.

That is fantastic. Thank you so much for your prompt reply and all of the resources you post. Please count me among the many grateful novices you've helped make biodiesel.

Here's the visual....


More here....
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/photos/events/girlma...shop200601/index.htm

-Graydon

Been there on hard to remove anode rods.I was lucky to have an air impact wrench.Took it right out.