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Clark's going to write up an article for the Tutorial about heating wash tanks. If you have good photos of ANY wash tank heating method, please send them to me.

Here's his and his friends' great innovation- installing a heater in a wash tank bung while still retaining the ability to drain the thing. I'm really impressed!

http://www.wvofuels.com/index.php/archives/2005/11/16/wash-tank-heater/

here's the diagram:

http://www.wvofuels.com/wp-gallery/posts/71/heater.gif


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Location: Pittsboro, North Carolina | Registered: 07 March 2001Report This Post
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This idea works pretty well... i put one on my washtank and have had no problems.... I don't think they mention it on the site, but some of that outdoor goop that they put where the electrical wires enter your house is a nice safety measure to take where the wires go into the element.

I am having a bit of trouble with 'sizzling' the contents of my wash tank, though... even i'm running at 1125W.... maybe i need a lower wattage density element.
 
Registered: 01 April 2005Report This Post
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I have heard that sizzling noise, and the problem is heat density. If you buy a standard element, it is set up for wate, which has a large heat carrying capacity than oil or BD. I live out in hard water country, so you can buy these large undulating elements that don't have a problem with local boiling that makes mineral buoldup a big problem in water heaters out here.
I discovered that he size and price of these makes them a bit less desireable, but I came up with a solution, which is to buy a 4500 watt 22v element and run it on 110v. Safe, cheap, cool!
anton
 
Registered: 17 April 2006Report This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Anton Berteaux:
I have heard that sizzling noise, and the problem is heat density. If you buy a standard element, it is set up for wate, which has a large heat carrying capacity than oil or BD. I live out in hard water country, so you can buy these large undulating elements that don't have a problem with local boiling that makes mineral buoldup a big problem in water heaters out here.
I discovered that he size and price of these makes them a bit less desireable, but I came up with a solution, which is to buy a 4500 watt 22v element and run it on 110v. Safe, cheap, cool!
anton
I'm sure you mean 220V element. Wink That's what I use, a 3500W 220V element wired to 110V.

I think a bung adapter and thermostat can be attached to the side of a metal drum with an element -- I am looking further into this. All off-the-shelf parts, a 1" hole in the side, and some good sealant. A thermostat coupled with the heater element adds necessary safety IMHO.


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Location: Denver, CO USA | Registered: 19 June 2003Report This Post
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Here’s a couple of pictures of my set up everything is done in one tank I dewater and dry waste vegetable oil I then add methanol and caustic mix; after one and half hour reaction time and one hour settling I drain off glycerol and wash and dry bio diesel then pump to settling barrel that has a 6”stand pipe allowed to settle for a week or so for any soap to drop out


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it


 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: 21 November 2005Report This Post
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here is the other one



skoda superb tdi 1.9

This message has been edited. Last edited by: copper12,


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it


 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: 21 November 2005Report This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Anton Berteaux:
Safe, cheap, cool!
anton


Anton, I'm shocked. I've never heard you use the word 'safe' before when it comes to heating elements. Your former heating method was dubbed the 'dangle it by the cord' method here in the distant past (I described it once and people jumped down my throat about it!).

Good to see you here. Welcome!

Mark


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Location: Pittsboro, North Carolina | Registered: 07 March 2001Report This Post
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I've used a similar design for my oil heating/dewatering rig, and I'd think it would also work fine for heating a wash tank. Pictures here on my blog. It worked great, running on 115v. I was able to accomplish it more easily by finding a drum with a "bottom bung" which means it's in the bottom third of the drum.

So, is heating really necessary in the wash cycle? I'd think that washing in my closed garage, with external venting, would be good at least 9 months of the year. Comments??

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Registered: 28 August 2006Report This Post
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I can also be reached by email at anton@safetythird.org if you have any questions about how NOT to build a processor...
Anton
 
Registered: 17 April 2006Report This Post
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