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I use compressed air and a plumbers' pressure tester to test water heaters (only about 10 psi) , but there's an element of danger to using compressed air and not everyone owns an air compressor.

Rick da Tech wrote the following at another forum, and I really like this method a lot better:

quote:
written by Rick da Tech:

Look for an electric water heater. I prefer those with screw in elements (not the ones using four bolts in a flange). When you find one look at the bottom edge. If it's really bad ate up with rust (big holes rusted through the sheet metal), look for another. All will have some rust there. Next open up the lower thermostat cover. If the element and thermostat screws are rusted badly, look for another. This is all assuming you have several to choose from. Elements and thermostats can be replaced at about $10 each.

Pressure test first. The most likely places for leaks are the plumming and fittings attached to the tank. Remove all the plumbing attachments and plug all but two with 3/4" pipe plugs. The remaining fittings (on top) screw in a pipe nipple (about 3" to 4" long) and and ball valves. on one mount a garden hose to pipe adapter on it. Use the other mount a ball valve to bleed the air out. fill the tank with water leaving an air gap at the top. close the vent valve first then let wait till the water stops flowing and close the other one. Wait till morning and open the vent valve slowly. If air rushes out and you don't see a pool of water around the tank, it's probably ok and worth cleaning up. You will probably want to pressure test again later.

Some have made test rigs with schrader valves and pressure guages to perform the tests. I think they can be built for a few dollars with parts from the hardware store.

I don't have links to them but most of the plumbing how to sites give directions for testing the elements to see if it works.



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Location: Pittsboro, North Carolina | Registered: 07 March 2001Report This Post
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Speaking of water heaters...I helped remove a solar tank from a system a friend was taking out. Its a great tank...66 gallons with all the amenities. While checking it out, it occurs to me that all these water heaters have a convex bottom, with the drain a bit up from the bottom and a bit of water remains after draining...I can tip the tank and get a complete drain, but I wonder how this bit of leftover effects the process? I would think a bit of glycerin would be left in the tank...I also think it must not be too much of a problem as there is no mention of it in all the reading I've done! Smile

Thanks!

Tim
 
Location: Centennial, Colorado | Registered: 18 July 2005Report This Post
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