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PH testing for a noobie
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Hi all,
We're working through an issue and wanting to go back and do some testing. Basically what happened is a friends TDI broke the timing belt. While waiting for a new head the car spent 5 months with bio sitting in the IP. after getting a new head it never ran the same and ultimately needed a new IP. We're not sure if that's because the biodiesel just sat in there, or if its because some water was introduced to the tank (bad pumping story), or if the bio we've been making has a PH far outside of 7.

So, that said, I've put over 12,000 miles on a GM 6.2L, over 10,000 miles on a Cummins 12v, and over 10,000 on a 2001 TDI. We haven't had any fuel related problems with those vehicles, just this one TDI which had a corroded pump.

We had a sample of bio tested for the PH levels (i'm waiting to hear how it was tested, so far all I know is it was at a hospital). The test came back at 5. We think this is off the mark. How could it come back lower then 7?

So that brings me to my ultimate question. What is the proper way to test for PH of finished bio? I currently do the GL process, 3/27, and shake em up test. I ran 12,000 miles on my dodge this year before changing the filter, so I think we're producing 'clean' fuel. I just want to test our fuel to see if we're using 'IP Safe' fuel.

Thanks in advance... Sorry for the long post.


Vermont Home Brewer (learning)
 
Location: Vermont | Registered: August 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
one TDI which had a corroded pump.

Corrosion is an indicator of wet fuel. What test do you use to ensure the finished BD is dry?



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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take 50ml of bio and mix it with 50mls of water shake well and check the ph of the water. I use soft water for the test, and also calibrate the meter with soft water to ph 7. but I agree with JG, must be some water in there! Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can also just titrate the biodiesel like you would your WVO to see if it is acidic...
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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John Galt,
Can you pass me on to some threads about testing for water amounts?

I bring my bio up to 190-200F during the GL process and circulate. Beyond that I'm not sure how to test for the water content.

Thanks,
Liam


Vermont Home Brewer (learning)
 
Location: Vermont | Registered: August 06, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Can you pass me on to some threads about testing for water amounts?

This will help
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72
The vapor test is one of the quickest and easiest.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Liamfm,

It's possible that the bio in your fuel pump just went 'gooy' with standing around for so long. Maybe if you had let it run for some time with just dino it may have cleared out.

dva
 
Location: Yorks,England | Registered: June 30, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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