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Converting Case 1030 tractor svo
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Now the tractor is only used for baling, harrowing the odd field, fertilizing, and running the auger.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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CASE1030
The opinion of many "sxperts" is that the VO should range above 140F before switching over from D2. John's suggestion of putting a bulb type water temp gauge is a good one. I would also suggest installing a sight glass ($5 from local auto supply) on the D2 return line to the D2 tank. This will tell you when ALL of the VO is out of the IP and injectors.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes dragonfly that is what im going to do is get a small glass se through bowl to judge purge time. And i also came up with a new plan. This way only one filter is being used. Reducing purge time and run time before switching to wvo. And also bypassing the last filter which is apperently a water separator/filter costing $60 to replace.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Looks better than the first flow chart and the improvements will make a good conversion. Keep the forum posted as the conversion progresses.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Okay sounds good dragonfly glad to hear this diagram plan looks better, I used both your idea and john so I get the best suitable system. I thought using all three existing filters was a little excessive although simple and would nearly eliminate the poly hazard. But I then thought about all that wvo that might be trapped in the filters. At least if I use the second filter it will still stop poly and won't contain nearly as much wvo. Also the 2 and filter is only about 10$. The last filter is a pain to change and I dont want to chance plugging it every tank of wvo I go through because I dont know the micron rating. Although purge time was not an issue I just wanted to cover my bases by making sure.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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all that wvo that might be trapped in the filters

Don't leave UVO in the filters; flush it out with the purging. The UVO retained in the FPHE while still being cooked by the hot coolant can be a problem if left for extended periods. System failures have occurred when UVO is left in the fuel system over time, as it can turn to gummy residue.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Yes john that process with purging will have to be done, at least by only using the one filter the purge cycle will take half the time. Along with the last filter being the most expensive, and a pain in the ass to change. At least by utilizing one of the filters it will prevent poly leading into the IP, and the filter is easy to change.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Also john should I install a coolant shut off valve for when I purge the system with diesel so it won't cook the veg in FPHE, It would also reduce the poly. I will purge the lines and the filter excessively to ensure no wvo in the filter. It doesn't matter if diesel ends up in the veg tank, all will be burnt anyway.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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should I install a coolant shut off valve for when I purge the system with diesel so it won't cook the veg in FPHE

That would be a good idea. These compact ball valves used for PEX tube are a good fit with 5/8" heater hose for a shut-off. I installed them on the supply and return to the FPHE so I could completely isolate it if needed.



quote:
It doesn't matter if diesel ends up in the veg tank, all will be burnt anyway.


Likewise it won't matter if veg ends up in the diesel tank.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Another thought to consider for the long winter inactivity to avoid Poly. Might suggest completely draining the VO from the entire length of the VO fuel line, FPHE, VO filter by adding a Shrader air valve to the last component (the 3 way VO/D2 valve). Use an air compressor at low air pressure (5 to 7 psi) to push all the VO back through all the components to the VO tank. Might want to drain the VO tank as well to avoid poly. VO present with air and in a steel tank will create Poly. I'd use a polyurethane (boat tank) or ABS for the VO fuel tank.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Near the end of the warm season run the VO tank nearly empty, fill the VO tank with diesel, turn off heat to the FPHE and run off the VO tank til it's empty then purge the fuel system with diesel.

Adding diesel fuel to UVO significantly reduces oxidation and formation of poly.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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John's procedure is much better and the way to go!
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Yeas Thats a good way to clear out the veg. I also heard about taking the heat exchanger out and soaking it in solvent and gas after done use. Also where can I get some 3 way valves?
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If the FPHE is flushed with the diesel at the end of the summer's work it shouldn't need further cleaning as long as 100% UVO doesn't sit in it for weeks. The 3way valves commonly used for switching between fuel tanks on trucks are available from most parts stores.

To avoid the oxidation problems with UVO fuel add about 10% diesel or kerosene.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have been using the three (SV10-34) and four way (SV08-43-0-V-00) HydraForce valves for over 8 yrs. I've had very good service from all of them. Make sure you ask if the price includes three barbed hose ends. Google HydraForce for a local dealer. There are several barbed hose ends vendors on the web.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hydroforce values will need to be pulled out and cleaned every season especially if you let them sit. I find greasecar.com truck valves work the best for electric application if you are going manual my ACE hardware has manual 3 way valves. If you use manual valves line them up perfectly and label them real good because it is real easy to muck that up and make a mess. The problem with shared filters is it never really flushes out that well. I like the French fries analogy If you fill a bucket with fresh cut fries and then add water to the top and let it run it takes a long time to flush the starch off the bottom. From the look of those filters it will probably take the last 30-45 minutes of run time to flush out those filters. I see the hard part of this conversion as everything being so close together. On a car or truck we at least have the fuel tank in the back and engine in the front.

I personally never add valves that are not needed i.e. to turn off coolant. It just adds cost complication and somewhere for something to go wrong and it takes extra space that I never really have. And I avoid hose clamps whenever possible. Flare fittings and pushlock fittings for rubber work the best. I use pushlock and PEX line on most of my systems. I see your pictures and you might need to add all metal lines with flares or compression fittings.

You do realize that getting them to run on grease is the easy part it is constant gathering and filtering that is the hard part. Once you convert it right it is done!


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
 
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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