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| quote: all that wvo that might be trapped in the filters
Don't leave UVO in the filters; flush it out with the purging. The UVO retained in the FPHE while still being cooked by the hot coolant can be a problem if left for extended periods. System failures have occurred when UVO is left in the fuel system over time, as it can turn to gummy residue.
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| Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005 |  
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| quote: should I install a coolant shut off valve for when I purge the system with diesel so it won't cook the veg in FPHE
That would be a good idea. These compact ball valves used for PEX tube are a good fit with 5/8" heater hose for a shut-off. I installed them on the supply and return to the FPHE so I could completely isolate it if needed. quote: It doesn't matter if diesel ends up in the veg tank, all will be burnt anyway. Likewise it won't matter if veg ends up in the diesel tank.
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| Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005 |  
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| Near the end of the warm season run the VO tank nearly empty, fill the VO tank with diesel, turn off heat to the FPHE and run off the VO tank til it's empty then purge the fuel system with diesel. Adding diesel fuel to UVO significantly reduces oxidation and formation of poly.
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| Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005 |  
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| If the FPHE is flushed with the diesel at the end of the summer's work it shouldn't need further cleaning as long as 100% UVO doesn't sit in it for weeks. The 3way valves commonly used for switching between fuel tanks on trucks are available from most parts stores. To avoid the oxidation problems with UVO fuel add about 10% diesel or kerosene.
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| Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005 |  
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| Hydroforce values will need to be pulled out and cleaned every season especially if you let them sit. I find greasecar.com truck valves work the best for electric application if you are going manual my ACE hardware has manual 3 way valves. If you use manual valves line them up perfectly and label them real good because it is real easy to muck that up and make a mess. The problem with shared filters is it never really flushes out that well. I like the French fries analogy If you fill a bucket with fresh cut fries and then add water to the top and let it run it takes a long time to flush the starch off the bottom. From the look of those filters it will probably take the last 30-45 minutes of run time to flush out those filters. I see the hard part of this conversion as everything being so close together. On a car or truck we at least have the fuel tank in the back and engine in the front. I personally never add valves that are not needed i.e. to turn off coolant. It just adds cost complication and somewhere for something to go wrong and it takes extra space that I never really have. And I avoid hose clamps whenever possible. Flare fittings and pushlock fittings for rubber work the best. I use pushlock and PEX line on most of my systems. I see your pictures and you might need to add all metal lines with flares or compression fittings. You do realize that getting them to run on grease is the easy part it is constant gathering and filtering that is the hard part. Once you convert it right it is done!
Robert In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
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| Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002 |  
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