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Converting Case 1030 tractor svo
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I believe that is the water pump, but you might be right I never took a hard look at it yet you might be right.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Actually by looking in the manual the coolant rad should be behind the hyd. rad. I will have to take a look at it tomorrow / today
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The FPHE you pictured has MALE threads. I prefer Female threaded fittings. I agree with John - the more heat the better. Another suggestion is to install a well heated VO fuel filter ($80). There are a few that use spin-on filters. I use the VW fuel filter ($7) for the VO heater.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Could you send me a link to the heated fuel filter, I don't think I will need two heating units considering the heat radiating off the block will heat everything up once the tractor is up to temp.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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E-bay has one for $105 - a good price, IMHO. Don't disregard the need for ALL the heat you can get! The trick for not coking the engine rings is to have the engine at operating temp AND the VO oil as close to the engine's operating temp as possible - i.e. engine at 180F and a 20 FPHE might get to 170F and the 12 plate fuel heat exchanger might get up to 170F. - Heating the VO will make it easier for the fuel pump to push the VO through the filter. Plumbing from the IP to the tank - IP then 20 FPHE, then heated fuel filter. Keep the hottest engine water's heat in the 20 FPHE. Warming the VO in the fuel filter dissolves some of the FAT and results in longer filter life.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes I agree with more heat the better but wont a 40 plate or 30 plate heat exchanger do the trick?
But do you see what i mean with the heat off the block, the lines are only like an inch away and they are steel lines to so the heat will conduct better aswell. The filters are all mounted on the side of the engine block to. If i were going to use the tractor for cold weather operation I would for sure get a heated fuel filter and insulate the lines but I just need a simple system for what I am using it for. Even if i need to run the tractor for 15-20 mins to get everything nice and hot then switch over will help to. The main goal is to run 100% veg oil after the tractor is warmed up with a simple system that wont require to much monkeying around with the fuel lines. Every time a joint or cut is made in the line it posses a chance of drawing air which would create a lot of hassle. If the first fuel filter needs to be changed more often thats alright it is a simple fix.

 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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You are missing the point of a FPHE. Standing next to a hot stove won't raise the temp of my blood. The point of a heated oil filter and a multi plate is to raise (good) the VO's temp before it enters the IP. I'd suggest reading other WVO Forums about why heating is important and what causes coking rings (bad).
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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On my Toyota truck's system the FPHE is before the filter and the IP, and I monitor the temperature at the #1 injector line where it enters the injector. My 20 plate FPHE has no problem maintaining 150°F or hotter at the injectors with no other fuel heating devices. The time that fuel is retained in the injector body will bring it to engine temperature before injection. Of course it's very important to connect the FPHE for correct counter-current flow. The hot coolant goes in at the end where the hot fuel comes out.

In the case of this tractor the fuel filters are bolted to the block and will be at normal engine temperature. Add insulation if heat loss is a concern.

Unless one is actually measuring the temperature then it's just hearsay.

Inexpensive digital thermometers with a remote temperature sensor are easy to find at most automotive parts stores. Install one to know what temperature the fuel is at the injector, instead of guessing.

All of the cases of "SVO" engine coking have been caused by cold fuel in cold engines and ineffective/incomplete purging. As long as the engine can start and get up to operating temperature on diesel with no more than 10% VO, it will run on clean dry hot UVO without problems. Cooling down on purge fuel is important otherwise residual VO in injectors and the combustion chamber will 'cook', because the engine block will heat up before it starts to cool down when the coolant flow stops.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Dragonfly:
Standing next to a hot stove won't raise the temp of my blood.


Actually it will at the distances found in most engine bays, and if you're in contact with the hot stove your body temperature will increase to fatal levels quickly.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So john my main concern now is using stock filters, is that alright? I will obviously be changing my filters sooner, the filters are cheap cartilage that just bolt in I think about 10$ a filter. But I will be drying and filtering to 1 micron so it should be good.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Dragonfly:
You are missing the point of a FPHE. Standing next to a hot stove won't raise the temp of my blood. The point of a heated oil filter and a multi plate is to raise (good) the VO's temp before it enters the IP. I'd suggest reading other WVO Forums about why heating is important and what causes coking rings (bad).


Dragonfly I hear what you are saying I totally agree with your point, but the oil will definitely be hot enough. I just had the tractor running and the fuel lines heat up without a heat exchanger in place or loop, just from the engine block alone and since the filters are bolted to the block it easily transfers heat through conduction. I will have the system looped on veg also so the temp of the oil after the first loop will be kept hot. The only concern I have is with the stock filters being used for both diesel and veg.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
The only concern I have is with the stock filters being used for both diesel and veg.

what is the concern?



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Sun wizard mentioned there being more disadvantages than just purge time for sharing filters. Is there anything is should be concerned about?
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Here is a more detailed version of the diagram of the plan. I thought Dragonfly had a good point to add a little heat just in case so I will wrap the coolant hose around the line with insulation and tape.

 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Actually the coolant line might be to thick to wrap so I might just run length wise for the coolant hose.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by case1030:
Sun wizard mentioned there being more disadvantages than just purge time for sharing filters. Is there anything is should be concerned about?


Ask him to be specific about the "more disadvantages".

I've run hot VO based fuels and diesel fuel through a Donaldson fuel filter on the stock filter mount and it has not deteriorated the filters in any way [they've been cut open and inspected] nor has it needed changing more frequently.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by case1030:
Actually the coolant line might be to thick to wrap so I might just run length wise for the coolant hose.


Zip-Tie the coolant hose to the FPHE along the fuel line and cover with foam pipe insulation, and insulate the 3rd stage filter.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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John and I have gone round and round in the past on many VO topics. I'm sure he knows more about VO that I do. You know the old saying "why re-invent the wheel. Many diesels are running on WVO with many miles with proven conversion systems. There are many conversion systems to choose from that are on the market. Some VO conversions work better and some don't. My suggestion is to evaluate the diagrams of all the systems, see what is common with all. One question for you: why do all the conversion systems have VO fuel filters included in their kit? I've said my piece take it for what it's worth. Best of luck with whatever components you choose. My first conversion was in 2005
'80 MB 300D on WVO
'87 MB 300SDL on WVO
'69 Chevy 3/4 ton with a Perkins turbo 6-354 on WVO
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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OT.How long have you owned the 1030? Do you have the 540 pto?


David Norwood

2001 F350 7.3 DI purchased new by me and it is the first DI experimented with and talked about on this forum.

Updated 1/2011 Alternative Fuel User Since 2003-vo is always in my fuel. Only one fuel tank. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter. Superchip. Hutch and Harpoon mods 2010. Diesel inline filter between tank and Airtex E2236 fuel pump (rated to 110 psi).Fuel pressure gauge. HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump. Two 12v 36" heaters, one before add on filter and one before OEM filter.

Cool weather mixes updated 2010. 100% vo to 70°. 66% to 35°. 50% to 10°.
 
Location: Upstate South Carolina , USA | Registered: December 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The 1030 has been my grandfathers since new it has 5300 hours, 540 pto, and hydraulics. Last year we had the tractor engine completely rebuilt. Due to unfortunate events leading to the oil ring popping out running the engine out of oil on the way picking up fertilizer. Didn't know until the engine was making clanging sounds. At the time we didn't have an oil pressure gauge, after we got the engine rebuilt we installed one.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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