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Converting Case 1030 tractor svo
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I would like to convert my old case 1030 tractor to run on svo. I would be installing a second tank, i just have a few questions. The injection pump is a mechanical bosch crank driven. I was wondering if i should tee the wvo fuel line before or after the filter? Is this ip suitable for wvo, do i need a lift pump or will the injector pump have enough suction? Where about should I put a heat exchanger before the coolant enters the rad or after or should I connect to my circulating heater hose? What heat exchanger should I buy for this application? The tractor will burning ruffly 12 liters light load- 20 liters heavy load per/ hour. I have the filtering ready to go with a proper setup to filter to 1-5 microns, I just need a little reassurance on the wvo setup for the tractor.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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First of all make sure the UVO is dry, not just filtered. Test it to be sure.
http://make-biodiesel.org/Qual...for-water-in-vo.html

That's a good IP for clean dry UVO.

Make all new fuel connections before the OEM fuel filter(s). They protect the IP and injectors.

A new fuel feed pump may or may not be needed, there are too many unknown factors.

Get the hot coolant for a Flat Plate Heat Exchanger where the heater line connects to the block, and connect the coolant return from the FPHE where the heater line returns to the pump.

The simplest system uses a small tank for diesel purge fuel and the main tank for cold filtered UVO. A fuel feed pump from the purge tank injects diesel fuel into the fuel line at a Tee inserted before the fuel filter, with a check valve so the flow doesn't go back to the main tank.

Turn on the purge fuel pump on the way home so the system is flushed and filled with diesel for start up.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
FPHE

Thank you for your helpful reply, The wvo looks very clean and clear, I have some 150 gallons have been settling for 1-2 years I will apply heat to the oil to make sure all the moisture is drawn out and do a moisture test. So you recommend connecting the hot plate head exchanger before and after the circulating heater? We recently had the old tractor engine completely rebuilt at around 5800 hours
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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john galt, what do you reccomend for a wvo fuel line, Hydraulic line or can I used just a regular diesel fuel line?
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Steel fuel line is OK, avoid copper. Gates/NAPA Barricade brand fuel hose is a good option for connections. Normal heater hose is fine for the hot coolant loop through the FPHE.

The hot coolant supply for the FPHE can come from the block where the circulating heater connects. The coolant return from the FPHE needs to connect near the suction side of the 'water' pump, or there will be no pressure difference to cause flow through the FPHE.

If you go to Google Images and search for FPHE, you will find many examples of how they are connected and the fittings you would need for your application.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a question about the return line, so it seems i have one fuel supply line and two return lines. My question do both lines need to be looped or teed together? I will upload a few pics. The two lines going down are the return lines.

Underneath the ip


Overview of the lines


another fuel filter
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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It appears that the two fuel return lines T together at the IP. I don't see any reason to modify the fuel return back to the IP.

On the fuel supply side nothing should be inserted between the fuel filter and the IP. The last item before the IP has to be a filter. It's best to make any modifications and additions to the fuel system between the fuel feed [lift] pump and the fuel filter. This section is pressurized.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was told not to use the stock filter and to add a separate filter for wvo is that correct? Where about do I join/ tap into the fuel line for the wvo line with a valve to switch from diesel to wvo? And would I need to add a separate lift pump for the wvo line? The fuel tank sits about 2-3 feet higher than the IP and the wvo tank will be on top making it about a good 3 1/2 feet higher than the IP. So since the tanks are higher will the flow of gravity also help the flow of the oil? Sorry this is my dads tractor and he is not sure if there is even a lift pump at all nor do I.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A filter on the UVO line is a good idea. Tap in before the existing filter. You can always add a fuel feed pump if gravity isn't sufficient. Do you have a shop manual for the tractor?



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Guess what I found in the manual?
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Excellent, that makes it a whole lot easier since it isn't designed as I would have guessed from the photos. This is how I would do it with a 'traditional' two tank system if it was my tractor:

One could change the 1st stage filter more often or add a filter between the UVO tank and the connection. If the 1st stage filters are inexpensive then I would just add a transparent inline filter {http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-fuel-filters/33972.html} on the UVO supply line.
Connect the UVO feed into the fuel supply line between the tank and the primer pump. Connect the UVO tank return line into the fuel return on the line back to the tank. I suggest using manual three way 'fuel tank selector' valves for the connections. I wouldn't change anything else in the fuel system. Those three filters are there for good reason; it's a very simple and reliable fuel injection system. Adding dry, filtered UVO to the system shouldn't cause the 2nd or 3rd filters to clog any earlier than normal.

Alternatively, a simpler system would use a small added tank for diesel purge fuel and the existing tank for cold filtered UVO. An electric fuel feed pump from the purge tank injects diesel fuel into the fuel line at a Tee inserted before the primer pump with an added check valve so the flow doesn't go back to the main tank. Simpler, easier and likely less expensive.

In either case you will have to experimentally determine how long it takes to purge UVO fuel from the system with diesel before you stop the engine.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes well the tractor will be running for 4-10 hours at a time so diesel purge time wont really matter to me considering how much wvo I will be burning. But should I have a fuel return for both veg and diesel or should I install a loop veg oil? I will only be using the tractor in the summer aswell, I decided it would be best with just a fuel heat exchanger 30 plate and forget about the heated fuel filter considering there are three of them. Since the fuel lines and filters are so close the the engine block along with the ip, after about 15 min of running in 75-80f weather those filters will be toasty warm and I will then switch to veg. Sound good to you?
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Case1030,
Although this diagram is a HEATED two tank system, you might want to look over this diagram for placement of conversion items. Google Frybrid Forum, then scroll down to "Diagrams", then find "Frybrid Loop Diagram". The diagram is self explanatory. Another suggestion for purging the system when timing the switch over to D2, is to install a sight glass in the D2 Return line to the D2 tank. When the VO color (darker) changes to D2 (lighter color), then you know the time it takes to purge (depending on the RPM of the motor). Playing it safe, purge for a little longer so the engine will start up on D2.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The existing return system will put UVO into the main tank unless it's routed to the UVO tank.
The rest of the plan seems like it would work OK to me. I assumed we were designing for summer only operation.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So the system would look similar to this, correct me if im wrong. For the return line I would put in a clear or glass bowl to tell me when the line is clear a veg oil for perg. The heat exchanger would be located between the veg oil tank and the three way valve fuel line.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yup, that looks good to me.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for your help John, and I took a look at those diagrams on fry bid Dragonfly it was helpful. I will keep you both posted, first i need to order the parts and the heat exchanger. Does this look good its a 40 plate Ebay 40 plate wvo heat exchanger
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You're welcome, I look forward to seeing how it works for you. The 40 plate is good, a 30 would likely be enough but more heat exchange won't hurt.

Did you find a connection near the water pump inlet for the FPHE heating return hose?



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Yes I did the pump should be shown in this picture, I had to rotate it since last time it was upside down.
 
Registered: June 18, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I couldn't tell if that was the coolant pump or the hydraulic pump in the shadows under the dirt.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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