I have a 93 F350 with 2 tanks. This will be the third 6 way valve that has gone kaput. This one only went like 100 miles. I have been running diesel in the back tank and wvo in the front tank. I do have a HE built into the system but all these short trips have been on diesel so I know I have not been putting wvo thru the valve. Does anyone know where I mite come across a wiring and layout for a system that I can use. I have tried search but I guess I am not inputting the right words. I remember reading that I could do away with the return lines and loop the system but I also read that the IP ios really fragile to allow this. Any help would be appreciated. This is a new engine and IP and everthing else has been done so it is not an air problem etc .

Sorry I don't have a lot of specifics.

There were notes earlier about clone Pollack valves on E-Bay. Make sure you are getting yours from a reputable source, or otherwise verify genuine valves.

You might be able to do away with the selector valve all together by putting in in-line one-way valves and just selecting which electric fuel pump to engage.

I'm not sure about the return lines, possible routing them to the fuel filters (or thereabout).

Normally I 'm not so abrupt but get rid of that 6 way polick valve and go with 2 3 ways I spent a year messing with cross contamination and 3 ruined polick valves Now its fine with 4 mile purge times no more hard starts.Some one will attack me on this but they've just been lucky with there 6 ports. Over at Frybird they have some nice diagrams to follow.Hope this helps you out.

Would suggest taking the pollack valve out of the system and replace it two solenoids, loop the VO just BEFORE the VO fuel pump. Very easy to plumb in place of the 6 way. Have been running for three yrs on the above system with no problems.

I guess there's always an exception. I'm running three Pollocks and they all have about 5000 miles on them. They are all well filtered before the input. The veggie has run near 190 degrees at times and through the valves. Two are from Ebay and one is from Auto-Zone.

Wayne...
Winter Haven, Fl.

I have been running two 3 port pollacks without any problems. roughly 50k

WHat I did was put in 2 new fuel tanks, 2 walbro electric pumps and a Vegpower 3 way electric valve. I dumped the 6 way as I was just plugging them up with crap from the old tanks and not allowing fuel to get thru the pollak valves. The tanks were cheaper to buy from advance than to take them out and have them boiled out. It was 100 bucks each for the new tanks and the radiator guy wanted 75 to clean them out. No problems since.

I have about 20k on a pollak on one vehicle, and about5k on another. So far so good. I have seen a number of post on frybrid about trouble with them thoug, so maybe I'm on borrowed time.

You folks may want to check out this 3 way vavle

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/959605551/m/9731029162

here is what a leaking pollack looks like


Did your old plastic Pollak fuel tank selector valve stop working, i.e., leaking, sticking--the plastic gears stripping?

Omar

I suggest going with 2- 3 way manual valves mounted through the floorboard.
They are more reliable and you only have to buy them once.

Heck I use water hose valves with fittings from Tractor Supply,like not over $5. each.If it stops water at 40 psi,It works with diesel or grease easy.

quote:

Originally posted by KnoxBioBenz:
I suggest going with 2- 3 way manual valves mounted through the floorboard.
They are more reliable and you only have to buy them once.

I can certainly see the appeal of this approach.

knox bio benz, specifically what valves do you use? i'd like to use that 3 way system, if i could with an 88 190d. mcarman