Jon
I'm sorry, I thought you were asking about checking the compression on a detroit. disregard all my rhetoric on running the overhead.
If your RH were my engine, I would shoot a slug of Marvel Mystery Oil or BD in that injector hole and let it sit overnight, then crank it over with a rag over the injector hole (careful, the oil will be hot and under a lot of velocity when it comes out of there) for a few seconds to make sure the cylinder is clear of liquid, them put your injector back in , bleed it and see how it runs. The MM oil will dissolve any carbon buildup in there and it will burn it out in a few minutes of running. Tom2

Jon, a retired engineer here Charlie restores old old engines (you should see the stuff he has sitting around) and has two Rustons but not your model.

He suggests looking in India for spare parts.

Thanks akwrench, I had already poured in some Seafoam DEEPCREEP but never even thought about bio, I'll put em at BDC and pour in some bio to loosen up any carbon.
Thanks Paulus, I have sent some emails off to a few Indian suppliers for pricing...

Any advice on what the lever is for? Here are some shots of it.




I figure its either a decompresser to get her started or the kill switch?
Here are some shots of the injection pump, you can see the rectangular block on the left, its actuated by a solenoid controlled by the control panel. It appears its either full throttle or nothing? The piece on the right of the pump appears to be the governor.




Any advice on how to start and stop her?

Thanks for all the help guys.
Cheers,
Jon

Is is on the inlet valve? Could it be a governor?

That's a decompression lever to hold the exhaust valve open for prelube and/or cold starting. You probably should use it because the starter may not have enough torwue to get it spinning if you don't. In the top picture you can see the intake manifold bolted to the intake port on the lower valve in the picture.
My best guess looking at the shape is that the injection pump has a built in rack for determining fuel delivery. In the housing to the right of the injection pump in Pic 3 is a set of governor weights that move the rod going into the side of the pump which in turn moves the rack. The governed speed is determined by the spring tension on that lever with two fingers pushing in on the governor weights, extreme right in the bottom pic. The lever on the left will be the shutdown lever which makes sense would be solenoid activated. Applied juice would be run, no juice would be shutdown, that way an open circuit in any of the safety devices would kill it.
If you aren't sure which way, you could put some fuel to it without the injector line hooked up and just turn it and see which way the valve is allows fuel delivery from the injection pump.
To run it just move that lever and in the run position you will get a frightening start-up right up to rated speed. Move the lever the other way and she stops. Many older voltage regulators couldn't handle the more docile low speed warm-ups so you may want to unhook the regulator power terminals if you want to run it slow until you are comfortable with it. but you knew that didn't you sparky? :-) Tom2
I edited and added the bit about using the decomp lever to save the starter.

Thank you sir! Much appreciated!
So its all or nothing eh, no idle. I guess because of the low RPM it wasn't a big deal, I can see why a prelube would be needed...
Any comment on the restriction on the exhaust pipe (2" to 1/1/4"), big deal or not really? I am going to have to come up with a muffler for it anyways...
Jon

quote:

Originally posted by Jon Heron:
Thank you sir! Much appreciated!
So its all or nothing eh, no idle. I guess because of the low RPM it wasn't a big deal, I can see why a prelube would be needed...
Any comment on the restriction on the exhaust pipe (2" to 1/1/4"), big deal or not really? I am going to have to come up with a muffler for it anyways...
Jon

Yep, all or none. A bit nerve racking until you get used to the sound at rated RPM. One hand on the rack (or shutdown lever) and the other one keeping the exit clear. :-)
Exhaust should be fine. If you are running very far with the pipe, insulate it with exhaust lagging to minimize exhaust cooling in the pipe. Also don't let the pipe drain toward the exhaust port on the head or you can get condensation running back into the cylinder after shutdown. Same goes for your crankcase breather if you are plumbing it outside your enclosure.

Should we be running another thread instead of using Eurocab's? I'm new to this. Tom2

Thanks again! I have now figured out how to put the rack linkage and springs back together now that I know how it operates Not having a carburetor and an ignition system is foreign to me .
I have found a few suppliers in India that are quoting me on parts, they stated that all the parts are still available so I will be good to go!

quote:

Should we be running another thread instead of using Eurocab's? I'm new to this. Tom2

Your probably right! I will start a new thread if I have any further questions...
Sorry for the high jack Eurocab!
Jon

quote:

Sorry for the high jack Eurocab! Big Grin

Not a problem, Jon.

I pulled the generator home on my trailer yesterday. Now I have to figure out how to get it in the shop.

I removed the cover plate on the side of the generator head and it has 10 leads. The head is a Delco Model E7344. I removed the cover plates on the front of the generator as well. The coils are coated with black grease. Should I use a contact solvent to clean up the copper coils?

I pulled one of the covers on the side of the engine and it looks like fuelfarmer's except maybe a little dirtier.

I will try to post some pictures when I find my camera.

quote:

The coils are coated with black grease. Should I use a contact solvent to clean up the copper coils?

No, contact cleaner is nasty stuff and could degrade the winding insulation.
Good old soap and water, pressure washer or even varsol will work fine to clean up the coils. Just blast it with compressed air once done to help dry her out.
Do you have any idea of the hours on her? If its a high hour unit the bearings may need some attention, at 1200 RPM a good set of bearings may last for ever though...
I am not familiar with your generator head and therefor cant offer you any advice on the configuration without a schematic or detail of the windings in her. It sounds like akwrench may be able to help you there. You should look inside the control panel and the terminal box cover on the head for a diagram.
Jon

Eurocab
Your genset is wired for 3 phase only if 10 wires are all you got. #10, 11, and 12 are probably joined internally. When I get a chance, I'll try to find the wiring schem for the "low" voltage hookup with 10 wires. IIRC it will give you 120/208 V with 58% of the output rating.

I have used a Zep product cleaning generators
http://www.zep.com/products/pr...ID=1&SearchTerm=1301

Did you pull your valve cover yet? Or take a pic.? Tom2

OK. I finally got my camera, battery and flash card together and here is the photos of the Detroit Diesel with the valve cover removed and the crud on the copper.

Well you've got a four valve head. That means it's practically brand new (the head I mean). :-) Well newer than 1958 or something like that. At least the head is the late style making injectors more current.
Those windings show you how your BD plant will look next year. Haha. Hope you got it moved in OK. More pics? Tom2

Tom,

Haven't got it inside yet. Still on the trailer. Hopefully my shop won't look that bad burning BD.

Here's more pics.

I like it. With the marine setup you can recover exhaust and coolant heat using the seawater circuit and store it in an insulated tank. Heat your shop, your house, provide your BD heat, heat your mother-in-laws house, all with the waste heat.

we retrofitted these on some of the fishing boats and they completely eliminated the oil "fog" found in an engine room that causes that crud to build up.

http://www.walkerairsep.com/

If you start that thing up in might walk right into your shop for you if you coax it a little. Tom2

It looks like the unit has a nice flat bottomed frame, a few short lengths of pipe (3-4 inch diameter works well but even 1 inch will work) between the frame and the ground (may need planks on soft ground) will let you roll it into position with no problem, may take a come-a-long or some other winching device if you are doing it alone, works fine, just slow going.

quote:

may take a come-a-long or some other winching device if you are doing it alone, works fine, just slow going.

You got the slow going right.

I started moving the beast around noon Saturday and after about 4 hours, here is my progress.




I worked another hour and got it completely in the shop and now I have to get it moved sideways over to its final resting place. The problem I have is there is nothing heavy enough to attach the wench to help me persuade it over sideways. I need about 4 - 250lb men. The engine hoist doesn't quite get the job done.

Got her done.

It took most of the day, but the beast has finally found its home.



I lost a wheel in the process. Chinese steel really sucks. Of course I was using the hoist in a way that it isn't supposed to be used, so what can I complain about.



It will be a few days before I can work on it again. The wife says that I have to finish installing our new windows before I do anything else.

Wow! I hope you plan on a good muffler.

Wow, that is a beast!
Did you have any luck finding a drawing for the genny?
If it were mine I would likely go at those dirty windings with some varsol and a parts cleaner brush followed by some compressed air to dry it all out... I wouldn't worry about them too much...
Let me know if you find any good info on muffling these things as mine have none either...
Jon