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DIY 220L Translucent drum cone bottom FAIL
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Heron:
Whats the plastic cone tank for, your methoxide?
No need for SS valves or fittings, standard black iron and WOG brass, bronze or steel valves are fine.
I really cant tell from the pics how or where you are heating the batch? If the double drum processor setup is completely sealed than yes I would recommend a pressure release valve, especially with using steel drums, IIRC they wont take much more then 5PSI. Over here you can get 35psi relief valves and you could then cut the spring down in them to get them to where you need it.
Cheers,
Jon


Hi Jon,

yeah I havent quite worked it out yet, I'll have two HDPE tanks, but i could upgrade to 3. but for now one will be for methoxide and the other for settling veg oil and mixing it all.I can afford to let veg oil sit and settle for well over a month as 80L biodiesel would last me about 2 months (I have a 1453cc diesel Smile )

I can get brass L port ball valves but according to a chemical resistance chart I have, Brass is moderately to severly affected by Methyl 6 KoH and NaOH. Im not sure what the chemical chart means by that tho. even with the above maybe they'd still last a long time?


also do you have a link for steel valves? according the chemical resistance chart Carbon Steel holds up well agaisnt the above chemicals.

yes I forgot to add the heating element, I have a cunning plan for that BTW. how about this heater element:

https://onedrive.live.com/redi...3&ithint=photo%2cjpg that could be install "inline"

eliminating the need for T pipe fittings?
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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here's a finished CAD of the processor if anyone has Sketchup:

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid...key=!AL_cGLcItYRl0Rw
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The brass valves work fine, I have been using them for years. The methoxide has very little reaction to them either, I have a 1.5" brass/bronze check valve and ball valve right on my methoxide mixing tank with no ill effect.
You can get steel or any other flavour of valves at industrial process supply houses, let your fingers do the walking.
I dont see any data about the heater, just a picture?
I dont recommend using a cone bottom tank to settle your biodiesel if your doing WBD as when the soap settles out it will likely plug the cone. The best is just a drum or tote then you can pump the fuel off the top of the soap into your chips. And then shovel the soap out of the bottom when done.
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Jon, Brass valves it is Smile

I dont have much info on the element:
http://www.spaparts.com.au/pro...r-element-3.0kw.html

thought it might be a good idea to eliminate the T fitting either end and instead just use two reduction fittings so the element is inline with the piping.

a CAD drawing to give a rough idea:
https://onedrive.live.com/redi...3&ithint=photo%2cjpg
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Holy crap!! $140 bucks for that thing!
Where are you located? You can get standard water heater elements at most hardware stores in North America for between 15~30 bucks.
Like this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cam...4219986?N=5yc1vZbqol
I like inline heaters as its easy to make them safe in a sealed environment with an affordable flow switch in the plumbing.
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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