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DIY 220L Translucent drum cone bottom FAIL
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Hey Guys,

thought Id try and re shape a drum. didn't work out as planned, the seem at the bottom started to separate. I used a gas cooker with two elements so I guess the heat wasn't distributed all that well. maybe next time I'll buy a large gas ring that distributes the heat evenly but doesn't have a ring to close to the center. I noticed as it got hot the White translucent HDPE went CLEAR. might be able to do a better job at the next attempt but the conical bottom wont be deep unfortunately.
(the things we have to do when cone inductor tanks cant be shipped to New Zealand...)

Image20140907_004835089_iOS.jpg (37 Kb, 38 downloads)
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It's Still water tight, hopefully I can iron some thin layers of translucent HDPE milk bottle strips along the seem to strengthen it. Was really hoping to achieve a deeper V, but it does kind of work..
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Does anyone know of a company that ships cone bottom tanks internationally..? (To New Zealand). Not having much luck ATM. Last thing I need is a "reactor meltdown"
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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if there is anyone in your area that can do plastic welding, then its a piece of cake to make up a cone bottom and weld it onto your drum. Our first processor was made this way, we even went so far as to weld two drums together to make up a 300 litre cone bottom container. Jim.
 
Location: Cape Town | Registered: May 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Jim yeah I have been thinking about that option. Would like to do it myself so I'll look at some plastic welders. Will have to source some translucent HDPE sheet.

Cheers
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by 1NEngine:
Does anyone know of a company that ships cone bottom tanks internationally..? (To New Zealand). Not having much luck ATM. Last thing I need is a "reactor meltdown"


These guys do a good job and ship anywhere.
Cost to ship it ?? Eek

http://www.dudadiesel.com/sear...&i=info_Cone%20Tanks


Good Luck !
regards
Tom


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Location: Decatur, Al | Registered: September 03, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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If you can source another drum, then you have your HDPE sheet for the cone. Jim.
 
Location: Cape Town | Registered: May 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Unfortunately they "don't have the ability to ship" inductor tanks internationally. Frown
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by JimKohler:
If you can source another drum, then you have your HDPE sheet for the cone. Jim.


So I'd cut the cone template out of another drum and shape it with a heat gun then weld?
Cheers
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I do plastic welding.. From heavy Polypro tanks on fire trucks to kayaks..

I have a Leister gun.. if anyone ever needs anything welded in my area (SE Michigan) I'd be happy to do it.

Some car club in Ohio even ships me stuff to weld periodically.. Plastic gas tanks and things like that.


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Registered: March 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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ine,I seem to remember, that many moons back, there was a template showing how to mark out a cone, maybe look in the archives. Jim.
 
Location: Cape Town | Registered: May 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by JimKohler:
ine,I seem to remember, that many moons back, there was a template showing how to mark out a cone, maybe look in the archives. Jim.

Is this the one?
http://biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Cone_bottoms_for_tanks
 
Location: Wyoming, US | Registered: November 03, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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That do be the one. Jim.
 
Location: Cape Town | Registered: May 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hey Guys

I was wondering if you could critique or point out any huge flaws in this plan? the T/L port stainless valves are NOT cheap over here, prob $100USD but it simplifies things a lot, I want to make it idiot proof (me). the welds seems pretty strong on the tank (~$500USD welder and parts) and i'll do a lengthy rigorous hot water test on the system.

Im now looking into the plumbing and again, plastic valves are very expensive over here, anything new... would black steel piping with stainless valves be a go? and would I need a pressure release valve in there?

Sketchup image plan:
https://onedrive.live.com/?cid...key=!AITWlnEUbVHrNU8

HDPE welded tank (I chose HDPE cos it can handle 120 degree C):
https://onedrive.live.com/redi...3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

seems as soon as I ask a trade for help or buy off the shelf parts prices instantly go into the 100's to 1000's bracket. thats why I have to do this myself.


Making the tank was easy BTW, just took time, like anything.

Cheers Smile
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi 1NEengine I have used plastic valves from irrigation systems HDDP type. They work ok but start to go plastic at 65Deg.C. I had the threads burst and hot oil everywhere. All this stuff is available in South Africa. Its not heavy and could be shipped to you.

SS Valves seems overkill at that price. I have used steel drums 210 litre and welded cones on the bottom. My pump is not ridged mounted to the system. I use camlock fittings with high temp rubber hoses (fuel grade) so the same pump does many different functions from transferring, filtering, drying etc.

Hope that is of some use.
 
Location: Johannesburg South Africa | Registered: October 09, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi, I'm interested in making a cone bottom for my new tank, i did the designs and went to my local sheet metal fabricator. He said he couldn't do it as he hadn't got the rollers to roll out the cone. He said the metal would be way to stiff to roll up the cone by hand. Any ideas?


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Location: Calne, Wiltshire, England | Registered: October 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Whats the plastic cone tank for, your methoxide?
No need for SS valves or fittings, standard black iron and WOG brass, bronze or steel valves are fine.
I really cant tell from the pics how or where you are heating the batch? If the double drum processor setup is completely sealed than yes I would recommend a pressure release valve, especially with using steel drums, IIRC they wont take much more then 5PSI. Over here you can get 35psi relief valves and you could then cut the spring down in them to get them to where you need it.
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cineman, you dont need rollers, a metal brake will work too. If the metal is not too thick you could bend it yourself over the edge of a steel work bench or make your own rudimentary break with 3 pieces of angle iron and some ready rod... Lots of ways to skin that cat, this has been discussed on here before, just search around and you will find the layout method for the bend lines.
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I think one of the ways they do it is to cut out the cone without the tip - that allows the cone to be rolled, then fabricate and weld a tip on.

A sheet metal fabricator friend here was able to roll up a cone even though he didn't have a the right rollers - it's down to skill. Didn't fold the tip separately either, and did a great job.

I'm pretty sure Murphy had a design for a hand bender - kind a clamp assembly. Works on numerous small bends along radii at set intervals around the circumference.

JamesRL, the coppersmith in the UK, told me that if you put a piece of steel through the rollers, roll it, then rotate 90* and roll again, you reduce the steel's resistance to flexing and bending becomes easier.
 
Location: New Zealand | Registered: August 15, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Cineman:
Hi, I'm interested in making a cone bottom for my new tank, i did the designs and went to my local sheet metal fabricator. He said he couldn't do it as he hadn't got the rollers to roll out the cone. He said the metal would be way to stiff to roll up the cone by hand. Any ideas?


Hi. well mine was HDPE i thought it was going to be really stiff but i could easily pull the cone together by hand, its about 5 ml thick. if the sheet metal is the same thickness as a 55gal drum im guessing its moldable by hand. I bent it around and clamped it in place for a few days and with a bit of heat gun it held its form. i also tack welded it bit by bit and just held it in place and worked my way around.

this software was really easy to use by the way: http://www.conelayout.com/
 
Registered: December 03, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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