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Hi again everybody!

I found a thread from last year that Murphy had posted a rendering of an in-line heater using pipe fittings.

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/71960555...701087902#6701087902

So I decided to implement it for recirculating and drying/filtering WVO. Here is a pic of it up and running. Big Grin

 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Here is a full view.


Big Grin
Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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... and a view from the top.



My goal was to be able to move it from tank to tank easily. This prototype will need refining still. I'd like replace the soft lines with pipe and make it more "compact" overall. The current electrical is "unsafe" at best and there is no thermostat control yet.

... but so far so good! Thanks for the ideas Murphy and GrahamLaming!

Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Nice system, if it were mine I would replace that gray plastic hose barb with a metal one. I also would cover the exposed terminals with silicon to lower the danger they present. The last thing I would do is put a plywood cover on it it with two four inch holes in it. One to mount a muffin fan and the other to exit the air.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I use the black liquid coating for my terminals. Apply, let it dry, add another layer, let it dry...and so on till your confident that the terminals are well insulated.
 
Location: Somewhere in the swamp... | Registered: 03 April 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Good pointers guys. Thanks! I like the Idea of silicon or liquid tape. That sure beats the way my brain was going! I was trying to engineer a cap to fit over it. Razz

Raften - I did mount a cover over it with a fan last night. It doesn't really seal good but moves a lot of air over it.

Big Grin
Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I used a standard 4" octagon electrical box and punched a 1" hole in the back. I used teflon tape to seal the threads and threaded the element through the box, the heater holds the box in place. No leaks so far and the box is solid...
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: 07 February 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I used a small project box from radio shack, drilled a small hole in the back to accommodate the hub of the element, and one for the cord. then used silicone to seal the entire thing.


C.


Pump and Heater controllers are a must have. (ask Tilly why) Find a "Free" timer plan here: www.biofuelcontrols.com Please sign guestbook and let me know what you think
2006 - Jeep Liberty CRD - Wife drives -
1983 - Mercedes 300SD
 
Location: New England | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by RNCarl:
I used a small project box from radio shack, drilled a small hole in the back to accommodate the hub of the element, and one for the cord. then used silicone to seal the entire thing.


Oh.. I may already have those things at home. Good idea!

Big Grin
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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What is the make/model on the pump shown in the picture? Will you use a PID/SSR/temp probe for temp control? I am looking into this equipment from http://auberins.com/ - several of you evidently use their equipment.
 
Registered: 20 September 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by bgulledge:
What is the make/model on the pump shown in the picture? Will you use a PID/SSR/temp probe for temp control? I am looking into this equipment from http://auberins.com/ - several of you evidently use their equipment.


The pump is a Norther Industrial clear water pump from Northern Tools. I have no controls yet, but that would be helpful. I'll check the link you posted and let you know.

Big Grin
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Suggeston

Mout it all on one of those $30 2wheel dollies. Then it be a matter of wheeling to a barrel, throw the hoses in and flip a switch. All compact and easy to work with.

Trc


If you can't dazzel them with brilliance, then baffel them with bullchit.
 
Location: north of houston, south of dallas, east of austin | Registered: 31 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I was going to ask about temperature control..but its been asked..

I would agree..get rid of the plastic in the pump circuit!!!

a simple timer on the heating element that only works if the pump is on would provide a simple safety factor.

if you opt for a PID put the thermocouple at the end of the heating element. if the pump dies the PID will control the heat out of the element! where you have the elbow at the end. replace this with a 'T' and put the thermocouple in the 'T'. the closer to the element the better.

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
the Liberty is now running B100 Smile
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile its running B75 until the next fillup then it'll be higher moving to B100
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Nice setup. What is the filter you're using?

FYI. If you use jpg files instead of bmp, the file size will be much smaller. Ie, the one pic that's about 1.5MB will drop to 114k.

I wonder if using a double gang box on the back would work? It would have the extra benefit of giving you somewhere to wire in your thermostat and even add an on/off switch.

- JC
 
Location: Western PA | Registered: 15 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
What is the filter you're using?


It's the GE whole house filter, I forget the model # right now, but it's bigger than the usual ones you see.

quote:
FYI. If you use jpg files instead of bmp, the file size will be much smaller. Ie, the one pic that's about 1.5MB will drop to 114k.


inline-heater.jpg shows 72KB on my server
recirculation.jpg shows 149KB on my server
topview.jpg shows 74KB on my server

Not sure why you're getting 1.5MB on your end. Must be a Window's issue Razz.

Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by doggiedoc:
Not sure why you're getting 1.5MB on your end. Must be a Window's issue Razz.


Your pics show as jpg on the thread. Must have been an "I/O" error. You must be running one of those "fruity" computers, eh? Smile

- JC
 
Location: Western PA | Registered: 15 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I wonder if using a double gang box on the back would work? It would have the extra benefit of giving you somewhere to wire in your thermostat and even add an on/off switch.

Instead of a 2 gang device box I would use a 4" square 'deep' box and a plaster ring for the switch...
BOX
PLASTER RING
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: 07 February 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by JCBiodiesel:
You must be running one of those "fruity" computers, eh? Smile


Yup, almost exclusively since 1984. Big Grin


Jon - thanks for the tips. I would have thought to us the plaster ring for the switch.

Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by doggiedoc:
quote:
Originally posted by JCBiodiesel:
You must be running one of those "fruity" computers, eh? Smile

Yup, almost exclusively since 1984. Big Grin


Jon - thanks for the tips. I would have thought to us the plaster ring for the switch.

Doc
 
Location: South Carolina | Registered: 13 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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BTW, for those "nongeeks" amongst us, "I/O" error is a technical sounding term we use to blame the operator. It stands for "Idiot Operator" Smile

Ever had your IT guy say, "Yeah, it's fixed, it was an I/O error." ? Smile

****
"Yup, almost exclusively since 1984. "

Well, there's no hope for some people...Frown

Razz

- JC
 
Location: Western PA | Registered: 15 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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