I scrounged two temperature controllers off a Holz-Her 1403 Edgebander. The machine has a heating pot for polyurethane glue cylinders and I am sure one of them controls the heating wand in the bottom of the pot. I have no idea what the other one is for.

<a href="http://s841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/eurocab/?action=view¤t=DSCN0456.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/eurocab/DSCN0456.jpg" border="0" alt="Analog PID"></a>

<a href="http://s841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/eurocab/?action=view¤t=DSCN0457.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/eurocab/DSCN0457.jpg" border="0" alt="Connections"></a>

Would these be considered PID's? Does anyone know how to hook them up?

Okay, let's try this:

It sure looks like a temperature controller to me! Likely before PID's where around but maybe not...
It will likely not have any kind of over/undershoot algorithm but is probably quite accurate but again I am only speculating.
To connect;
If you have 120V connect the white to terminal 8 and the hot to 7 or if you have 220V connect to 7 and 8. Connect your TC to 11 and 12. You will need an SSR or relay to control the heater as the contacts are marked as only being good for 5 amps, connect the feed for the coil on your SSR or relay to 5 and from 4 to the relay.
Set the dial to your desired temperature set point and the analog reading above the dial should indicate the temperature the TC is reading. The set screw on the black plastic piece on the dial face is to lock the dial in place. When the controller reaches the temperature you set on the dial the contact will close thus applying power to your coil and energizing your heater.
Jon

That doesn't appear to have any PID functionality to me. It looks more like a pretty straightforward temperature switch. Can't say for sure, but quite possibly the scale up at the top (-30 to +30) could be some deadband adjustment.

Thanks a lot Jon. The machine dates back about 30 years, so I guess that was before PID's. I will probably be running it at 220V so I would connect my hot to terminal 9 (L-220V) and my white to terminal 8 (neutral). Right?

Galen, I missed the scale markings from -30 to +30, Hmmm... Could be an ambient temperature gauge...
Eurocab, Good question! Does the 220V in your country utilize a neutral? It appears that it was connected for 120V previously... In my country there is no neutral on a straight 220V cct. and when a dual voltage component like that has both ratings you would always connect the 240V to L1 and L2 (7&9) but I am not sure how things work where you live... My guess would be 220 should go to 7&9. The strange thing is that that device looks German made and they dont use 110V over there...
Let us know if you let out the magic smoke... ZZZT!
Jon

They're in the US, their machines looks reasonably expensive...email them for an owner's manual or circuit diagram. http://www.holzher.com/

I think in the states we have two 110 legs plus a ground on a 220 circuit.

And you are right the temperature controller was made in Germany by Stoerk for Holz-Her, but for sale in the US market. Sounds like I am in for a shocking experience

I think I have a circuit diagram, but reading it is going to be a bear. It's in German and I am not an electronics technician or an electrician The two temperature controllers appear to be for the temperature inside the glue nozzle and as the glue leaves the nozzle. I guess ambient temperature is important for melting the glue to the proper temperature for proper flow.

No problem! I have a great deal of experience reading electrical drawings in German and many other foreign languages! If you want I can PM you my fax number and you can fax it over.
Oh, if your in the states then connect the 240V to 7&9 as there is no neutral. And your description of 110 on each leg is correct.
See if you can get the relays or contactors that the temp controller controlled off of the machine as they will probably work fine for your heaters...
Jon