I'm looking to build a wash tank that can do 150 gals of biodiesel at a time. This is to go with the processor that i'm building (i'll post pics of that soon!). I've considered building another two standpipe washtanks, but i really don't want to do it like that, i'd prefer to work with a larger tank and just get it done in all in one container (pretty much the reason that i'm building this large processor too). So what are my options?

I've considered IBC Totes and Conical Bottom HDPE Tanks, but i've yet to see any good examples of these. Due to the cost of anythign conical bottomed, i'm leaning towards the IBC tote, but don't know how to get a standpipe into it effectively. Is there a really good way to put a pipe through the side and seal it? I was thinking maybe a fitting with a gasket on either side and some silicone sealer.

This is all speculation right now, and until i make this, i'm going to continue using my one 55gal poly drum standpipe washtank four times in a row until my reactor is drained! If anyone could make some reasonable suggestions for building a wash tank of this volume, i'd be greatly appreciative!

There was a seporate discussion on IBC tote washtanks here:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/91960555...451078441#7451078441

The solution/example/suggestion was to modify the tote with a bulkhead fitting w/gasket for a standpipe. Are these what we're talking about?
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product....il/iid/6862/cid/1869

I can't see, are these threaded on both sides? If that's the case, and these would work reliably, i'd love to make one.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ProjectPurity,

You can put a pipe though any tank with a 1/2 inch thick or less wall.. If its steel it will need to be a flat wall, if its plastic, the fitting will flatten it out.

They are made out of PVC and are called bulk head fittings.. Its like a pipe coupler with a thread inside and out with a large nut and flange.. YOu drill a hole of appropriate size, slip it in and then screw on the other side.. The tricky part is getting the other side on if its inside the tank and you can't fit in it.. I usually have to fasten some sort of wrench to a pole to reach in to hold the fitting while someone else tightens it up from the other side.

Here is a link to one..
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PP-PolyPro-Safe-T-Loc-Bulkhead-Fi...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


That is a 2 inch fitting but they come in all sizes..
New cost is like $50... ebay cost is much MUCH lower..

Oops..

I didnt click on your link until after I posted..

Yup.. that's it.. and VERY good prices there too..

That is exactly what you want..

I really need a fitting that is threaded on both inside and out... Well, inside the tank and outside the tank so that i can elbow up a standpipe once i get inside the IBC. Are these threaded as such?

Just buy the dang thing.. trust me, that's what you want to use.

They are made so that you get a liquid tight seal in the hole you drill that they stick through.. They are also made so that you can pass a pipe through the device and keep going on the other side..

Its just like taking a pipe coupler and welding it into the tank.. You screw a pipe on one side of the coupler and a pipe on the other side of the coupler.. Only with these, no welding is required.
I'm not 100% sure but I don't think the threads on the outside can be used for anything but the locknut that seals the device to the side of the tank.
I've used dozens of these from 1/2 inch all the way up to 3 inch in size.. They work great!!!

You may want to check the seal material for compatibility.. I've used them for some pretty harsh chemical processing and never had a problem but bio is a different animal.. Even if the seal is not compatible, its just a round circle and can be replaced by purchasing a simple piece of material and cutting a new one yourself.. Nothing fancy..

ProjectPurity's IBC Washtank

PARTS NEEDED:

1 IBC tote with 2" bottom drain
1 2" Black Iron Tee
1 Black Iron Double Sided 2" to 3/4" Bushing (the kind like they have for easy standpipes)
1 3/4" Black Iron Elbow
1 3/4" Black Iron Tee
3 3/4" Ball Valves
1 2" to 3/4" Black Iron Reducer bushing (single sided)
1 28" 3/4" Black Iron pipe
3 3/4" Close Nipples
3 3/4" Hose Barbs
1 3' piece of 3/4" PVC (black iron would be better)
1 3/4" PVC Cross
1 3/4" PVC Pipe to NPT bushing

PURPOSE

The idea with this design is to overcome the limitation found in most IBC Totes which is that there is only one existing drain. Standpipes become a matter of drilling and installing bulkhead fittings which, while seamingly easy, can limit versatility of the washtank in that you can't adjust it's height after instalation without plugging the old one up and installing a new one. Admittedly this innovation stems from not wishing to install a bulkhead fitting, but I know you guys will like this.

This idea can be modified to apply to a 55gal barrel if for whatever reason the coarse threaded side needs to be used for something other than the drain or the standpipe.

Basically the idea is that you can use the double sided bushing to send a stand pipe THROUGH the 2" opening and UP into the tank at whatever height you want and you can change it via pipe rearrangement anytime you want. The 2" Tee is used to drain the wash water which comes out AROUND the standpipe pipe via the side outlet on the 2" Tee.

USING THE IBC WASH TANK

I've set my standpipe at roughly 50gals of water. I am now using a silly 24'x24' square yard watering piece for spraying. I intend to purchace a BETE M-187 in square spray in the not so distant future under the advice of Legal Eagle. I've also stopped bubbling as the primary method of aggitation as i choose to get all of the glycerin out before washing so that i can use a violent aggitation.

Here are some pictures of the completed setup:

Completed setup before installing the standpipe (i figured people would like to see the standpipe before i installed it)


Here's the manifold.


Here you can see the standpipe tube comming into the IBC


I was adding some water and snapped this shot of the water just under the standpipe level... you should be able to see the cross down there.


Here's a picture of the first test run... we'll see how this pans out!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ProjectPurity,

Here's a picture of the manifold if anyone would be interested...

I will be watching this thread with interest to see how well this worked.

Hey Projectpurity,
You get two thumbs up on the manifold. I really like that idea. As far as the stand pipe I have two ideas that might work. First, what if you had a piece of PVC that stuck into the tote far enough that it lined up strait with the opening in the top and had a 90 at the end. Then it's just a matter of forcing a piece of PVC pipe (with a hole cut in the side at the right height to drain) down into the PVC pipe from your manifold. Of course the pipe can stick all the way up to the top so it’s easy to push into the PVC at the bottom. I have found that as long as there isn't any pressure the PVC usually won’t leak if you just force it into a fitting without glue. Also, if you really want to get fancy, you could have the 90 degree fitting (on the end of the pipe coming from the manifold) with threads.


The second idea was to simply have some semi-rigid tubing sticking inside the tank (from your manifold) and coming up through the top. The name escapes me at the moment but I think it’s called polypropylene tubing. It’s the stuff used to make the ice maker water line but in a larger size. Anyway, cut a hole in the side of the tubing in just the right spot. The benefit of using this is you could adjust the height of the standpipe any time you want by simply raising or lowering the piece of tubing sticking out the top which would raise or lower the hole you cut in the side of the tubing. I've seen this line in 3/4 inch size and I bet you could find it in a 1 inch size.

I'm not great at conveying what I'm trying to say but after reading your building description I don't think you are either (Just kidding)

One look at the picture makes it all make sense. That's why I always try to include a picture if I have to explain how to build something. My communications skills suck.

Excellent job.


-Mcguyver

Maybe some clarifications are in order.

If you see where the 3/4" tube comes out of the 2" black iron tee which is attatched to a black iron elbow, a standpipe (about 3" height) would be attatched to that. That 2" pipe threads onto the drain at the bottom of the IBC, which then sends the 3/4" standpipe apparatus up into the IBC.

mcguyver,
Maybe i don't understand you're suggestion... maybe a picture of you holding the setup would help

ProjectPurity
That looks GREAT. That may be the ticket to Big washes. Look Here.
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/919605551/m/3901003551
The 8th post down , Legal posted this company builds a mister just for the square ibc totes, it will cover the whole thing in 1 pass.
This might be what you want?
Jammer

quote:

At this point you are going to need to figure out how you want to get inside the washtank. Thoughts i've heard and developed are cutting a large hole in the top of the IBC and physically climbing through that to do the work, cutting the whole top off and reattatching it via hinges as some kind of lid, basically you need a way to get into the washtank now and to maintain it later. There's got to be a million sollutions to this.

With the whole 2" Tee assembly tightened thread it onto the 2" nipple right after the shutoff valve that usually comes on the totes. This should leave you with the assembly on the outside and a 3/4" pipe sticking out on the inside of the tote.

Hey ProjectPurity,
Touché!... I had that one coming

Unfortunately I can't post pictures of me and equipment due to my extraordinary good looks. No one would pay attention to the equipment and the forum would turn into a dating service. Curse these good looks.

I was addressing the part of the post where you mentioned climbing into the tote to attach a standpipe to the "elbow" that is inside the tank. If you extended the pipe so that the "elbow" lined up with the lid of the tote, then you could get a pipe long enough that you could just reach through the tote lid and screw it into the elbow. Because a pipe that was long enough for you to be able to screw it into the elbow by reaching through the top would be too long for the standpipe, you would have to cut a hole in the side of the pipe to establish the standpipe height. I would use PVC for the pipe sticking up because it's easier to work with and cheaper.

I know I didn't explain that well. If only I could post a picture of me holding it.

-Mcguyver

A Myers hub, available at wholesale electrical supply houses are handy devises as well. They probably work better against flat surfaces. I have used them very successfully on 55 gallon barrels. They flatten the barrel material quite nicely. Much better than welding thin material. Cheap as well.

http://img133.imagevenue.com/img.php?loc=loc262&image=48563_DSCF0888.JPG

I'm not sure how a Myers Hub would fit into this project? That's a heating element right? I suppose i could plumb a heating element into the bottom, but i've had the problem with filling IBCs that 5in of water is about 50gal. I would need to be running a 150gal batch all the time plus 1/3BD volume washwater just to clear the element. I'd have problems heating thoroughly as well. I've made an inline mist heater, but i bet it would only be really affective on about a 1/4gpm mister. Any more than that and it'd probably be inaffectual.

Please explain the relevance... if it can help, i'd love to try it!

Forget the fact that I had a heating element screwed into the Myers hub. The Myers hub is just another cheap way to plumb just about anything into its internal threads. There fairly cheap, come in many different sizes and sure are easier than welding or brazing thin metal. I just thought it was another idea that might work with a plastic tank. That is if it could tightened enough to flatten the plastic and create a good seal. JB weld helps as well. Then again I may not understand exactly what you trying to accomplish.

I have used a Myers hub on the bottom of a 55-gallon drum and it worked great. I did use a lot of JB weld overlaid with silicon. It’s not pretty but it hasn’t leaked yet.

So it's like a bulkhead fitting, but seemingly burlier? I'll have to invest in some of those the next time i see a need. As for the IBC washtank, the only thing i could see it used for would be to make a standpipe right dead center beneath the lid/mouth.... I'm trying to avoid this for good reason: If you've ever looked inside an IBC you'll notice that the bottom is anything but flat. It's got a lot of contour including a channel right to the drain and a lower section on each side for the puropose (i believe) of making sure that sediment that settles to the bottom doesn't drain out. This makes drainage in a tote a bit of a task. Also, it doesn't leave a good flat point where you could easily get a bulkhead or Meyers Hub in. Maybe on one of the two sides would work, i'd love to see someone do it, but you would have to go through both the poly tank itself and the skid that it's mounted to.... i'm not sure if this would pan out well.

As i said several posts ago, i'm reluctant to install bulkhead fittings for fear of placing them improperly or that they would leak. Maybe one day i'll have more faith in them, but as for now i'm unsold on the matter. I'll try to get some more pics up as soon as i build the darn thing more.... money isn't plentiful as an intern

Hey ProjectPurity,
I'm going to install a slightly modified version of your manifold on a spare cone bottom tank I have.

I let you know how it turns out.

-mcguyver

I built a few tote size wash tanks with Bulkhead fittings installed into the sides of the tank at different levels . They have worked really well so far , and it seems alot simpler than trying to install a standpipe through the bottom . Also I would think you would have problems with moving the totes around with the forklift once there was plumbing in the bottom of the tank .

Man, i WISH i had a forklift.... My washtank is immobile. Why would a washtank be mobile anyway, aside for demonstration/cleaning purposes? Even if i was going to move this around, that 2" fitting on the bottom of the IBC should hold the manifold nicely once i disconnect the 3/4" braided tube feeding from the reactor.

Again, to be honest, i'm just a little sceptical of the perminant height of the bulkhead fitting, and am drawn to the idea that i can easily change the standpipe height by using a different nipple, or, as some have magnificently stated above, just drill a series of holes in the standpipe closer to the elbow at the bottom.

With it being mobile I can fill on and while it is washing I can move it out of the way to fill others easier . I have four totes setup as wash tanks and use them in , this increases production a little over having only one wash tank . I also use a few others for drying and some for settling tanks . This allows the processors to be free for processing on a faster time per batch . I could have it all setup with out having to move them around with more plumbing , but this works well for me .