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member 2008 Sponsor |
Suntec pump - You can order a replacement viton shaft seal from your local commercial bearing, chain, and seal retailer, I think I paid $6.00 for one. Take the original seal along so they can measure it, or measure the shaft diameter and the diameter of the hole that the seal presses into. The original seal has double lips, the replacement was only available with a single lip, should not be a problem at the low pressures (200 pounds or less) this pump runs at.
Unfortunately, this is not the only seal you need to change, there are a couple "O" rings on the internal pressure regulation piston housing that also need changing, these are also available in viton from the seal retailer, the last seal you need to change is a flat 5/16 flat "dot" of rubber pressed into the nose of the pressure regulation piston, this seal closes off the outlet of the pump to help eliminate nozzle drips once the pump stops turning (the original seal rubber used here even degrades if only pumping straight vegoil). This flat rubber circle is simply pressed into a recess in the nose of the piston, I have made replacements for this seal from both 1/16 inch thick viton sheet rubber (McMaster-Carr) and 1/16 inch thick sheet aluminum. If using the aluminum you need to tap the back of the pressure piston just enough to emboss the aluminum with the shape of the oil outlet oriface. I suspect 1/16 inch flat sheet teflon gasket stock would also work fine, I just didn't think to try it at the time. I have seen someone advertising supposedly bio-ready Suntec pumps on ebay but on contacing them they did not even know there were internal o-rings or flat seals, they just changed the shaft seal to viton. |
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member 2008 Sponsor |
OOPPS - Just remembered - The Suntec "A" pump used on oil burners has a couple more internal rubber parts, both these work together to bypass the oil internally to keep the pump from making any pressure until the drive motor is almost at full speed, this insures the best possible spray pattern from the fuel nozzle.
One rubber item is a 1 1/4 inch rubber coated (may actually be plastic coated?) fabric diaphragm, the other is a small spring loaded check valve that has a rubber tip. The check valve spring loading is adjustable and is set based largely on the viscosity of the fuel being pumped. This adjustment is touchy, I have had pumps pump #2 road diesel just fine but never switch to making pressure when pumping a slightly thicker red off-road diesel. Deterioration of these parts will still let the pump make pressure but the pressure will be below spec at start up and shutdown when the motor is turning slower than the pump RPM rating, this will cause poor spray patterns from the fuel nozzle and may account for the extra nozzle maintanance that I have read about when burning B100. For my use, drip fed stove fuel metering pump, the pump needs to move oil when turned at very low RPM's. The first mod I make is to remove these two parts so I don't know for sure they will deteriorate in B100 but I suspect they will, the check valve especially, as it's tip looks like normal black rubber, the diaphragm looks a bit more like pvc or vinyl plastic, it may survive, don't know. |
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Member |
Thank you for all the info. Very helpfull
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member 2008 Sponsor |
Another possibility - Suntec has available an electric solenoid valve that goes in-line between the pump and the burner nozzle, it opens and closes the output of the pump to the burner nozzle, they are available with a few seconds time delay after power is applied, one of these valves would replace the function of the internal bypass diaphragm/check valve as it would allow the pump to reach full pressure before it switches the oil to the nozzle, and it would stop the flow to the nozzle the instant the power was turned off to the pump/fan motor/solinoid valve.
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