Maybe it was 350Km ? That would be the right distance in my book . That is a BIG bear.

That bear picture was taken with a focal length of 350 mm (Millimeters)

I was physically standing about 100 yards from him.

Believe me, I was calculating his acceleration vs. my ability to get back into the truck or at least into the bed of the truck.

I have about two dozen more photos of this same guy. He didn't move around much..

Murphy;
You are very fortunate to not have encountered an agravated or annoyed bear.100yards can be covered in a matter of a few seconds by one of these guys. From the time he gets into gear and teh time you realise what he is doing you'll be able to smell his breath right up close and very personal. The bed of a truck will offer zero protection, he will simply stand up and lift himself into the bed with you; strange bed fellows one could say.
I strongly suggest that this experience not be repeated.

"In spite of their size, some have been clocked at speeds in excess of 56 km/h (35 mph). Along with their strength and deceptive speed, brown bears are legendary for their stamina. They are capable of running at full speed for miles at a time without stopping."
Wikipedia on the Brown/Kodiak Bear

quote:

Originally posted by Legal Eagle:
Murphy;
You are very fortunate to not have encountered an agravated or annoyed bear.100yards can be covered in a matter of a few seconds by one of these guys. From the time he gets into gear and teh time you realise what he is doing you'll be able to smell his breath right up close and very personal. The bed of a truck will offer zero protection, he will simply stand up and lift himself into the bed with you; strange bed fellows one could say.
I strongly suggest that this experience not be repeated.

"In spite of their size, some have been clocked at speeds in excess of 56 km/h (35 mph). Along with their strength and deceptive speed, brown bears are legendary for their stamina. They are capable of running at full speed for miles at a time without stopping."
Wikipedia on the Brown/Kodiak Bear

Relax,
I know all about bears. I'm an avid camper. The big 800lb grizzly bear out in the middle of no-mans land is not the one that is dangerous. The dangerous bear is a 250lb black bear hanging around a park full of people and food. I call them "Yogi's".. as in Yogi bear.. I refuse to pitch a tent anywhere within 10 miles of a public camp-site. Bears that are NOT accustomed to seeing people will generally do everything they can to stay away from you. Getting a photo like that is very hard because as soon as they know you're there, they leave the area. Park bears just want to know if you have any food.. Their curiosity is what is dangerous. Any bear with a cub is also dangerous.

This guy isn't showing me his teeth.. He's yawning because he realized I was watching him and now he has to get up and move somewhere I'm not.


Ya, I don't think I'm going to follow him.


Stupid camera shutter. CLICK CLICK CLICK.. I had a great spot where I could have relaxed and take photos of him all day long if he stayed there. He heard the camera shutter going off.. It took him about 10 minutes to figure it out and then he looked right at me.. Camouflage only goes so far..

Amount of oil being fed to the bottom bowl -- I looked a bit closer at this today before lighting up the burner, the 3/32 hole in the fuel shoot puts right at one drip every second into the lower bowl.

Sorry Tim,

Didnt mean to hijack your thread.. Biodiesel isnt my only hobby

So you're basically using about 10ml per minute?

JohnO's oil burner accessory for a wood stove
Murphy inspired me to knock-together an oil burner "accessory", which I put in my shop wood-stove. Yes it burns biodiesel and SVO, both really well. No, I haven't tried glycerin.
Cheers,
JohnO

Pretty cool Johno..

You know, no matter what kind of heater you put together, burning free oil for heat rocks!!

Hello all,

Johno, amazingly similair to something I put together a while back. Will try to put up a pic of it and another "accessory" you might try.

Stay warm,

Al

Hpim3291.jpg (2,743 Kb, 78 downloads)

Back with the other one.

Hpim3283.jpg (616 Kb, 70 downloads) turk type burner

Murphy -- By chance, were you standing anywhere near a cell tower when photographing that bear.

001_image001.jpg (220 Kb, 62 downloads)

Al/makingtoys - that's spooky. I suspect you took more time making yours (and it shows - nice job). I especially like the stainless steel tubing. The similarity in stoves is a bit scary, too. Is the fan necessary? I found that natural induction is plenty for my setup.
Cheers,
JohnO

Hello all,

Johno, thanks. The fan is for a turk type burner. Burns much cleaner (little to no sooting in the stove, and no smoke out the chimeney(running straight wmo)). Still the basic pot burner problems, but it does work very well. Sounds about like a roaring wood fire. The drip burner just dripped into a cheap stainless pot.

By the way..Nice stove!

quote:

Originally posted by Tim c cook:
Murphy -- By chance, were you standing anywhere near a cell tower when photographing that bear.

Wholy Fried Bears Batman!

Something in the box must have caught his attention. I wonder what..

I was in Yellowstone in early may.. Still had huge amounts of snow above 7500 feet or so.

The valleys between the mountains had just finished melting..

My development of this wood stove burner unit is pretty well over as I don't intend to make any extensive modifications to the stove itself. I am still testing this style burner but in a new heater more along the lines of the Sanders heater using a 100 pound propane tank as the burner chamber. I will be starting a new discussion for this heater shortly, once I get the old fashioned pictures back from developing.

The new heater has yielded more info. it has shown a low-heat limitation to the double bowl concept, at least for the 8 inch diameter bowl burners that I have made so far. These burn very well as long as you feed them enough fuel to stay hot enough to vaporize fuel, below about 1/5 G/H the amount of heat generated is not enough to keep the bottom bowl hot, once the fire in the bottom bowl goes out the top bowl then cools and eventually goes out. This .2 G/H is still considerably more heat than I need for my small 750 sq ft house, the wall thermostat was pegged at its max of 100 deg f after burning .22 G/H over a night with single digit outside temps. lowering the fuel feed caused the burner to go out in less than an hour.
I am now testing an even simpler single bowl burner using a cheap $2.00 single 6 inch diameter, 2 inch deep, outdoor camping type stamped stainless steel bowl, insulated away from everything that can suck away heat using fiberglass insulation. This burns fine down to even 1/10 G/H. It is a bit more smoky than the double bowl but at this small amount of fuel the smoke is almost undetectable from the chimney. At the cheap price for these bowls cleaning may not be too much of a factor.

This simple bowl has burned continuasly now for two days at a fuel rate of .19 G/H (5-6 drops/sec -or- about 1 1/2 PINTS/HR) and has kept the house at 76 deg f during outside temps of from -2 to +12 deg f.. Burning .11 G/H (3 drops/sec) the house stayed at about 59 deg f, that was just a bit cool even for me.

To get the stable fuel feed needed for the desired 5 drops/sec fuel rate I went back and reworked the suntec fueloil pump that is turned with a automotive windshield wiper motor. Because of the large gear ratio of the wiper motor the output shaft speed is extremely stable and there is plenty of torque to pump even gelled oil or tallow. This allows precice control of from 2 drops/sec (1/2 pint/hr),requires the pump speed to be about 5 seconds/revolution, up to a bit over 1/2 G/H with 2 rev/sec. these slow pump speeds don't make any detectable suction so the pump must be located below the fuel source and fed directly from the bottom of the fuel tank, this keeps the pump flooded full of fuel. I currently am using a version of one of my 20 pound propane tank collection funnels for this, the pump has a 1/4 inch pipe fitting on the top surface, I screwed the funnel directly into this opening and the pump has worked perfectly 24/7 now for a week. The funnel holds a full 5 gallon jerrycan of fuel, this allows a complete day of heat before needing refilling. I feel confident enough in this heater to leave it burning unattended for most of the day, nice to have a warm house all the time, never did figure out how to feed wood into the wood stove when I was not there, made for cool homecomings.

I will post a link to the new burner discussion when I start it.

I'll miss the double bowl burner. And be sorry not to see the triple.

I have a big space to heat and a big woodstove.

Might actually have to make one myself.

Thanks for all the work Tim and for sharing it with us.

I look forward to your next thread.

This may be silly, But...

What would be wrong with an electrically heated bowl?

Small amount of electric to release large amounts of fuel heat?

Not as elegant as fuel alone.

But simple and reliable at any fuel feed.

Always enough heat to vapourise.

I am thinking of the elements I have for heating round bottom flasks.

Could they be fed power safely without frying the cables etc?

I have high temp teflon, mica and fibreglass wires but only good to about 200deg C or so I think. Would need to be away from the main heat. From below perhaps.

Stupid??

Ant -- Electrically heated bowl --

Might help with startup but probably is not nescicary for a single bowl burner, don't know it it would help reduce the smoke by increasing vaporization. The insulated small single bowl runs hot enough that there is not an actual fuel pool in it, the bottom stays dry once it is up to temp, takes 10-15 minutes, once hot the bottom stays dry and each fuel drop sizzles a bit and is pretty much instantly vaporized.

The small thin insulated SS bowl starts up on the first effort if it is first filled at least half full of diesel or kerosine (I add about 5% alcohol to the startup fuel, this blend ignites easilly using a standard butane charcoal lighter but does not create any ignition "woosh" hazard, the surface just shows a thin layer of blue alcohol flame), only takes about a half cup, start the drip, light it up and away it goes. The double bowl concept does seem to burn with less smoke and soot due to the extra heat causing very fast vaporization in the top bowl and the top flame burns a good bit of the smoke produced from the cooler lower bowl. The fast vaporization also produces less "coal" than the single bowl burner and a lot less coal than a standard pot burner (actually, almost none, at least when burning vegoil, haven't tried used engine oil yet).

I have been burning the new small insulated SS single bowl continuously now for days, it burns unattended all day with no problem so far. I designed this heater to contain any liquid fuel and drip it out of a weep hole in the bottom into a catch container, this worked to contain a couple of gallons of oil one night during double bowl low-fuel testing, the fire went out but the pump kept running, I woke up due to the cold after several hours and found the drip container about 3/4 full, just poured this fuel back into the fuel tank and popped the single bowl burner unit in the heater, had heat again in minutes.

The single bowl burner only needs cleaning every 3-5 days, I simply swap out bowls, the heater never even cools down.
This new sanders style burn chamber works as described in his article, the soft light ash blows out of the bowl and ends up in the bottom of the burn chamber, I cleaned this out after about a week and only had maybe 1/4 inch of ash. Sometimes the single bowl has only soft ash, sometimes a bit of hard coal, both are easilly removable with anything like a screwdriver or pocket knife.

I had to burn wood for a couple of days in the double bowl wood stove as the small $39.00 ebay 12 volt fuel pump fried its small hobby-type 12 volt DC electric motor when the pump gears got jammed up. A bit surprised at this as it was only being powered by about 4 volts and only stalled for maybe 30 minutes, shorted out the armiture so was not repairable. I put together a second pump as described above using an old suntec fuel pump, a windshield wiper motor, and the direct feed 5 gallon fuel tank, works as good as the first one except for a tiny drip from the shaft of this worn-out pump. The pump was rusted solid originally, took several weeks to get it apart and sorta working, I will replace it with a better one eventually, I just put the entire assembly in a metal pan to contain the tiny amount of drips (one every few minutes) for now.

Running 2 of these windshield wiper driven pumps now has shown that the heat the burner puts out can be controled to a VERY fine degree, I am considering adding an electronic thermostat to the motor speed control to adjust the speed a bit as needed to keep the room at a constant preset temp.
I can manually control the pump from a low of about 2 drops/sec (less than a 1/2 pint/hr) up to well over a half gallon/hour stream. By adjusting the motor voltage (motor speed, thus pump speed) I can change the room temp in my house, in sub zero f outside temps, from as low as 58 deg burning, .11 G/H, up to somewhere over 100 deg f (wall thermometer only went to 100 degree f) burning .32 G/H (woke up swetting something fierce the first night of testing, didn't have a referance point to start from) .

Pictures should be done shortly so I will post a couple here and in the defunct oil-o-matic discussion, then open up the new discussion about the new Sanders style heater.

Also thinking of testing a very small version of Murphy's vertical flame high pressure air atomizing heater, use 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch pipe "T"s for the fluid bed fuel feed-air orifice assembly and use a glowplug as the heater for this tiny amount of fuel. A small clean burning fire extinguisher sized heater might heat the motor home nicely ?

Hi Tim,

Nice work with the pot burner! Sorry about what happened to the Oil-o-matic. It's way too complicated IMO although there are some interesting controls on the unit worth studying.

Are you using a stainless pot lid for the single bowl?

Can you try this in your single pot?:

Get a few pieces of Kaowool ceramic insulation (they come in various density and thickness) and line the inside of the bowl and see if it helps with cleaner burn. It may also serve as a wick for initial starts. Good to hear that you were able to get the Sander pot burner concept to work. How are you insulating the bowl? Maybe you can use the Kaowool for that purpose?

I still have not built mine yet but will definitely do so when I have time.

Canola -- the SS bowl that is working well is an actual small metal bowl, sold at camping stores. It is a simple China-made stamping but with the edge roled to eliminate any sharp edges. 6 inches across the top, 3 inches across the flat bottom, 2 inches deap, sort of a small cerial bowl type thing, cost $2.79.

I don't think placing insulation on the inside of the bowl is what is wanted, the entire bowl wants to get as hot as possible, placing the insulation on the outside of the bowl helps with this. Watching the flame from this bowl, the entire bowl area is producing flame no matter how much fuel it is being fed, the entire bowl being hot seems to vaporize fuel from all it's surface, more fuel just makes the overall flame a bit bigger.

The Sanders center air intake design works well to feed air directly to the flame, unfortunatly this same air tends to cool the bowl by flowing all around the outside. Because my initial design of this heater was for the double bowl the lower bowl is 9 inches below the air outlet, to get the single bowl closer to the air I bought a cheap $7.00 SS coffee canister at Walmart, this is also made from thin deep-drawn SS, 5 inches tall and 5 inches in diameter. I tossed the lid and filled this canister full of standard fiberglass insulation and then set the smaller single bowl on this insulation. The insulation has now settled a bit and the upper burner bowl sets down mostly inside of the canister and rests on the open upper edge, seems to work fine as most of the bowl is down inside the outer canister where the combustion air can not directly cool the burner bowl. This also makes it very easy to switch out bowls once one cruds up, just lift out the dirty bowl with a pair of pliers and set a clean one back in place. I will post pictures in the new discussion shortly.

quote:

Also thinking of testing a very small version of Murphy's vertical flame high pressure air atomizing heater, use 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch pipe "T"s for the fluid bed fuel feed-air orifice assembly and use a glowplug as the heater for this tiny amount of fuel. A small clean burning fire extinguisher sized heater might heat the motor home nicely ?

That would be nice.