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Beckett furnace now (today) is B100
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fabricator

I am by no means an expert, but on at least older model burners, the ignition will never go off when the burner is running, in other words you will always have a "spark" between your electrodes. Second, you can't adjust your burner on the bench, it will do exactly what you are describing. Burners are meant to be used and adjusted in a combustion chamber. The combustion chamber allows you to control the amount of air and fuel to make an efficient and complete burn. Combustion chambers are designed to accept only a certain amount of fuel/air mixture and burn efficiently and cleanly. Turning your burner on while it is on the bench is an easy way to see if things are functioning with your burner, but you cannot do any adjustments until it is in some sort of confined combustion chamber.
 
Location: smithville flats, ny | Registered: August 28, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Lew, since I posted that I figured all that stuff out, I have it installed on my new heating boiler and it runs without smoking, it smokes somne on shutdown but that is normal, I'm having trouble getting it to stay burning on anything but B100, I tried 50/50 bio and svo but the cad cell wont see the flame so it shuts down, I'm going to try the 56k resistor in paralel in the cad cell line and see if that helps.
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: April 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm going to try the 56k resistor in paralel in the cad cell line and see if that helps.

I have also read about using a trim pot to find the sweet spot, as well as moving the cad closer to the retention head and drilling a 1/8" hole in the retention head to let more light hit the cad.
They say to drop a nozzle size and crank the pressure up to 150 PSI in the Beckett for B100 use also.
My bio boiler for my new reactor is going to be fired by a Beckett burner but I haven't gotten around to finishing it yet.
Coincidently my Riello burner in the shop furnace running on B100 does not suffer the cad cell problem at all, and the cell is further back in the tube then the Beckett, I wonder if the Riello cad will work on the Beckett... I will check it out when I drag the Beckett out from under my bench and let everyone know...
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I don't have a cad problem on B100, it's when I blend bio and svo I run into problems,
I could be wrong but I believe all these burners use the same cad cells, I have a big Johnstone supply catalog that has all the different burners and there are only two different cas cells one is White Rodgers and the other is Honeywell I believe.
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: April 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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B100 will burn very lean, giving an almost opaque fire, the cad cell will not see this type of lite. I had to cut back on the combustion air just so there was some yellow/orange in the fire, haven't had a problem since, and I can burn up to 20% svo without any problems, anymore than that, the nozzel cokes up. Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm on my second winter of running B100 in the furnace for my house, my garage and my hot water heater and they are all running fine. All three have different burners but I made the same changes on all of them and they fired right off and have only had to change one nozzle so far.

First, I downsized the nozzles (1.25 to 1.00, 1.00 to .85 and .65 to .50) Then I rasied the pump pressure from 75 psi for dino to 150 psi. I have sinced backed it down to 125 psi to cut down on flame size and consumption and it runs fine there. I installed a pressure gauge in the line from the pump to the nozzle, using 3/16" steel brake line, so I can adjust it back if I had to switch beack to dino for any reason. Always use flare connections on any of your copper lines. Compression fittings will leak, especially on the suction side. adjusted the air slightly. I removed the nozzle assembly and cleaned it and the inside of the tube and sprayed both with heat resistant silver paint. The burner in the garage (very dirty and hostile environment) needed a repaint at the beginning of this heating season but the house and water heater burners are still ok. This has eliminated any problems with the cad cell shutting the burners down. And last, I had to change the transformers to newer high output units (14,000 volts). I have run over 800 gallons of biodiesel through these burners and all is going ok. Last season I was washing and drying the fuel but this year I treid running the fuel unwashed. After I drain the glycerin, I use the fuel just as it comes out of the processor. I'm not sure if I've been lucky so far or smarter than I think I am but I can't argue with success. Anticipating a pump seal problem I purchased back up pumps for the burners but they are still sitting on the shelf.

I'm not sure if everyone will have the same success I have had, but I've saved over $1600.00 and reduced my carbon footprint by more than 9 tons since converting to B100. (plus it gets me out of the house and gives me an excuse to go to my garage and play)


"This biodiesel tis a cruel and heartless mistress we home brewers have chosen"
 
Location: MA | Registered: February 01, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Last season I was washing and drying the fuel but this year I treid running the fuel unwashed

Do you use a standpipe setup to drain off the bio? I,ve had success running B100 from a separate fuel drum ,but then I dumped my washed and dried bio into the HHO tank to make B50. I was orginally afraid to put bio into an old tank (my guess is the tank is 30-40 years old). I installed a Goldenrod filter in line to act as a sediment trap. The orginal fuel filter is still used after the Goldenrod but to me the canister does,t have enough area to settle out any particles.
 
Location: western new york | Registered: November 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Do you have no drip nozzles? Where can I get one?
 
Registered: June 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can always try Bete Industrial Nozzles. They pretty much have them all and probably have a distributor not far from you or you can order on line.



** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.


 
Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: December 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am very interested in seeing if indeed all pressurejet biodiesel users as I that are using at least 50% bio diesel mix with either kerosene or diesel have resolved the nozzle drip problem.
It is interesting to note that Riello do not advocate mixing biodiesel with kerosene and all their data that mentions Biodiesel is based on mixing 30% Biodiesel with 70% mineral diesel ( 35 sec Fuel oil) I wonder why on earth this is...... Does Riello know something that we do not.
I have 4 burners a Riello 40 G5, an old Electro-oil 109 (that I fitted an extra solenoild to on the line to the nozzle) which seems to suffer much less nozzle drip. I also have a Nu- Way Sterling S1S-63
and finally a Riello RDB 2........... I have a perfectly clean and efficient flame on the little modern Nu way Sterling which has a .5 ES nozzle in it and the pump pressure is 200 PSi which was the reccomendation of a very knowledgeable tech at Elaectro-oil some thirty tears ago........ I had telephoned this very aimiable young man to ask-- is their anything new re diesel pressure recomendations & he immediately told me ---wind the pressure up double & you'll see better cold ignition. In all this time since then I cannot see for the life of me why not operate a burner that is using fuel thicker than (higher viscosity)28 sec oil(parrafin) for better atomization ?
Jon Heron is very knowledgeable with burning Bio as is I make bio of Ireland but I do not know how often their burner heads are having to be cleaned...... I took a pic this morning of the blast tube that has been operating with the clean flame but is coked up near the front of it but the diffuser (turbulator) is clean. Back to the days of the drip tray under most large burners I caught two eggcupfulls of oil which I do not like as it has implications of fire safety.... the powers that be would not entertain that these days! It is interesting that my oldest Electroil burner that I cannot regulate to get a clean flame ( at smoke 1 ) is the least drippy but I fitted as said an additional solenoid at the nozzle line just as it enters the nozzle holder..... I wished whoever uses Bio in a good proportion can give explicit advise what their anti drip method is. I pondered on a solenoid which is Normally open put on the high pressure line between pump and nozzle holder that opens when the shut off solenoid shuts therefore relieving any pressurization on the nozzle line.
In my case having a Tigerloop the pressure relieving line can be joined into the air vent line as mine runs back to the tank..... Mind you I can fit either the Delevan eco device which replaces the bronze filter on their nozzles or the Danfoss E type which has the anti drip feature. Do they work efficiently in each and every case ? Come on Biotom , Jon H , I make Bio,, Lets get this problem ironed out >? I don't want to be buggering about every verse end cleaning & de-coking or else it'll be back to buying the kero..... not too bad a price lately though but it cannot possibly match my free diesel for ten years or so when I used to regularly change an oil burner for a gas one.... those were the days but it did have a reducing effect on the insurance once I'd got rid of the diesel fuel it was a very nice perk. well I did get my hands dirty didn't I and where ther's muck there's money...
 
Location: Nottingham in England | Registered: August 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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