I started using my homebrewed biodiesel this winter blending it 50/50 for heating my house . I didn't wash because I don't know the environmetal effects of dispoing the wash water. Maybe someone can enlighten me in this area. I'm having trouble with the nozzles pluggingand they get a clear polyurethane like coating on them after a couple days. The furnace will trip off and after I reset the red button its start pumping but no flame and as soon as I replace the nozzle it will fire up ok .At least for a couple days on B50. I was hoping I could use unwashed bio. Is the clear like coating on the nozzle a common occurance(glycerin maybe)? The flame with B50 is whitier , the flame with striaght petro is orange. I put a spin on bio filter right from the start but its doen't seem to be helping. I'm using a cone bottomed drum for the B50 tank and draw about 6 " above the cone so I let the junk settle off to the cone area. I switched back to petro oil until I have some time off work . Is there a better filter ? I switched to a bio fuel pump today . Any input ?
My concern is this, my burner came thru with a "clean cut" pump which has a solenoid on it to turn the fuel on and off. I'm thinking it's a little different than the biopump because of that. If I eliminate it from the burner and go with a plain biopump, the start cycle of the burner will be affected by not having the solenoid that comes with the clean cut pump.What I was thinking of doing was to take the new pump apart and just replace all the seals with viton to make it bio friendly.
you also mentioned getting a new cad cell is this because yours got damaged or did you get a different type?
I have that exact burner but like I said my only concern is this pump.
Are you sure you have a pump leak? I thought I had one too for a while. It wound up being a nozzle drip that was flowing back down the blast tube and then into the area where the fan draws in air and onto the floor. I've been running blends as high as b100, and (knock wood) haven't had a pump leak in 1.5 years.
You can order a pressure activated nozzle that will close off when the burner isn't firing (patriotsupply.com). Nozzle drip is pretty common.
I don't understand how you can get nozzle drip when it takes 100- 140 psi to atomize the fuel thru that hair end sized orifice, unless the supply is way above the burner and gravity feeding into the pump and nozzle and I don't know if that would even work.
Apparently if the nozzle gets too hot it will draw the fuel out while cooling, thus causing nozzle drip.
Simple schematic for a pump and heater control with a high limit
Sensor for the biodiesel/glycerin layer
looking at the beckett burner Oil Burner Afg120v/3"Air W/Val for home heating wanna use wvo my wmo is strickly for vehicles!!im dewatering and filtering down to 10 micron .. just posted so i cand find this link faster anyone in the mid tn area? have a little veg oil 200 to 300 gallons that will trade for some of ur brain hahah !!!!!!
I'm using a beckett AFG burner to heat my house ,tried using my unwashed B50 but have trouble with the nozzles plugging up . A clear like film forms on the nozzles and electrodes . Probably will have to makeup a wash system to cure the problem. Does anyone use unwashed biodiesel with success? I'm game for any biodiesel chat.
Unless you use the GL Eco System or ion exchange resin method unwashed biodiesel still has suspended soaps and these soaps will clog things up. I use a 2 micron filter as a quality control device to tell me if soaps are still present or not. I've lasted the entire year on one filter whereas I was going through several sets of two when water washing with super softened water.
** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.
Legal Eagle its sounds to me that even water washing is the answer . I'll have to reseach some of dry wash systems . Want is your 2 micron filter arrangement?
Legal Eagle its sounds to me like water washing isn't the answer ,but I don't have anybody to compare results with. With with mist washing how many times does it have to be done before you get clear water,and is are temperatures of the wash water and biodesel critical?
I jumped to a conclusion! It was not my pump leaking. May be a little nozzle drip but appears that too much or wrong angle of spray pattern is my leaking issue??. It leaks during firing and stops shortly after burner shuts off. Well, at least I have the biopump now. Stick with your factory, especially because you have additional protection for nozzle drip. Replacing with viton seals would be good idea too. I was having a shut down condition with good fire, tried a new CAD cell instead of painting blast tube and worked fine. There was no damage to cell I replaced, worked fine on dino.
Here is my scenario. At 100 psi no leaks. Adjust pressure to 140 and I start to get drips out of the bottom of the burner assembly and the flat bracket the burner bolts to. I am thinking I need to put in a smaller nozzle (.40 gph?). This is a mobile home forced air furnace. Current nozzle is a .50 gph 90 degree solid core. Is hollow core better for bio than solid core?
I am not sure of the answer for solid or hollow core, but I can ask if you want me to.Burners are typicaly installed with a slight angle in toward the fire box 1-2 deg. you can achieve this with washers under the bottom bolts.And with bio usually a size bigger on the nozzle is best. I have been using this "clean cut" pump that came with my burner changing o-rings is a snap, and the nice thing about this pump is the solenoid shuts the fuel off instantly (might help you)or you could buy a solenoid to go in your fuel line to do the same thing and then you could stay with your Bio pump 110 solenoids are cheap and wiring would be simple enough with your burner circuit
hey, what is that you are using for your oil line??
I put in a siegler fuel oil heater that I bought a couple years ago at an auction, and I remembered cutting copper line to the fuel tank when I moved it. so, when I hooked it up last month I used copper again.
Problem came up when a windy day blew the screen door open, and it hit the copper line and knocked it right out of the nut s person flares, and then screws the line on with.
We went to close the screen door and found stinky fuel oil spraying all over the the back of the house, the ground, and basement wall. What a freaking mess.
I went to Menard's and asked what a person could use to run fuel oil instead of copper, and they would'nt tell me anything, except to call a plumber ( a plumber??).
I wish I'd seen pics of your set up a long time ago. That flexible looking line would have been so much better.
I know of a very large fish market that uses a diesel fueled cooker to cook lobsters. Lots and lots of lobsters. They want to run the cooker on biodiesel. The oil burner is made by a company called Beckett, Model A7148. It has been running on Diesel #2 for five years with no issues. We added B50 to it and it ran fine for about 30 minutes than it shut down. There is a flashing light that said it was in "lock out" mode. We reset it and it restarted then shut down again after a few minutes. This time it would not reset.
I did not see an in-line filter but maybe their are clogged screens. It only ran for 30 minutes on B50 so I did not think clogging would happen that quickly. My fuel is clean, dry and passed 3/27. It's around 80F right now so cold weather is not a problem.
I called the manufacturer to get some info on nozzles and advice on cleaning the screens and possibly adding a filter and they were less than helpful. They stated that anything above B5 is not recommended. I asked why and I was told that basically they don't trust biodiesel. So they don't even want to help me in any way at all. B5 is like not running biodiesel at all. What is the point if you can't at least run B50? Why this fuel is so hard to be accepted even though it has been around as long as it has is very frustrating. They won't even sell me parts because I'm not in the heating business.
Is there anyone out there with experience with this burner? Is there a book I can get that explains how a diesel burner works that also has info on running it with bio? This cooker is going to be used at a major event in the port of Los Angeles. Over 6000 lobsters will be served. The port managers are very interested in this set up and with the state making it so hard to sell bio; I need this to be flawless. I don't want to give the critics any reason to support their position. I have two months until the event so I have time to get it right.
as far as a filter it's in the pump. You can get a filter kit for the pump they only cost a few bucks the filter looks like a basket and the screen is ultra fine. The kit has a new filter and the gasket to go with it. It takes about ten minuets to change it and purge the air out of the line.
Based on you description of what's happening it sounds like you have a Cad cell issue there are a lot of ways to work this problem out if you look at some of the post you can try the different techniques. What I would try first is take the burner out and clean the burner tube real good you may have to take it off the burner to do this, then paint the inside of it with high heat silver paint. Next make sure the cad cell is properly aimed and another thing you could try here is make a small extension to put the cad cell an inch or two closer. These are very low cost fixes you can try if they have no affect then we may be barking up the wrong tree. hope this helps
RXwoman, the flare fitting must have been installed wrong. I can't imagine the joint coming apart if it was done right.
51fitter, thanks! I'll give those tips a shot! Is the unit easy to work on?
They are all incredibly simple, I can't remember where but I did see a parts break down somewhere on the web. But if you have basic mechanical skills you will see it's really straight forward. I would say what really matters if you disturb the igniters (try not to) make sure you put them dead on where they where 1/16" of an inch count!!
I just started messing with a beckett burner that I took off a furnace at a local scrap yard, the burner is in good shape and it lights on bio with no problem, this is with the burner just sitting on the bench, it really smokes badly and burns yellow, I have to shut all air off completely or it will go out, also the igniter spark never turns off, I figured once the cad cell saw a flame the igniter should go out, any thoughts on all this stuff?
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