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cad eye trips burner unit
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I was hoping to burn straight bio ,without blending 50/50 HHO/bio,but the cad eye isn't sensing the flame and shuts the burner off. I can have a strong flame and the unit still shuts down. The biodiesel seems to produce a white flame. Is this common with other brewers? What can I do to remedy this problem? I've read where cleaning the inside of the burner tube and painting it with high-temp silver paint works. Is it that easy?
 
Location: western new york | Registered: November 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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heatbeater
I know what you mean! you need more yellow/orange in the flame, to achieve this close off the air supply to the fire box, mine is almost totally closed off. Another way is to move the target in the fire box closer to the burner (not all furnaces have this).
-the last thing is to replace the burner nozzele with one that is one size smaller, and then increase the burner oil pressure until you get that sucker to start reliably and then adjust the air for a clean burn. Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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From what i have read, never tried this myself - the normal flame sensor detects infrared energy as well as the red end of the visable light, there are sensors that detect the ultraviolet blue end of the light spectrum, the ultroviolet sensors are supposed to see the flame from biodiesel much better. Unfortunatly, I don't have any specific part numbers to pass along though.
 
Location: fisher,illinois,usa | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cadmium sulfide detectors work by lowering the resistance of the cell circuitry in response to being illuminated by a light source.

I can keep my flame going with a pen style flashlight that runs on AAA batteries. The sensor doesn't know the difference and doesn't care.
In fact, when I am outside at night, if I remove the sensor and point it at the light on my porch (30 feet away @ 100 watts), I can see a change in resistance to even that light source. It's not enough to trigger the flame sensor circuit, but it is there. Another couple hundred watts would probably do it.

Try cleaning the glass in front of the sensor and make sure your flame sight tube doesn't have any garbage in it obstructing the illumination.

The UV sensors are different story. They require that you have an extremely bright yellow or blue flame that gives off enough ultraviolet light.

Hope that helps,


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Registered: March 09, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Clean and paint the inside of your flame tube with a high heat resistant paint,(white or silver ) available at most auto parts shops Drop your nozzle size and increase your pump pressure or check too make sure you are running at least 140 psi. Also make sure the pump is bio compatible , factory pumps probably are not and the buna seals will not last very long.
Depending on the chimmney stack and how the furnace is vented . Adjust your air intake , too little air causes smoke, too much burns a short white flame.
I adjust my air intake will looking thru the peep until is see a white yellow flame with wispy tails
that trail upward.
It was a learning curve but the furnace is running on 100% bio for over 2 years.
Hope this helps ,
Joe D
 
Location: Western Mass. | Registered: March 02, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the replies! It is a biodiesel compatible pump that I purchased 2 years ago. I'll pull the burner unit this weekend and paint the inside of the tube ,bump the pump pressure up to 150 ,clean the eye lens and try to adjust the air intake for a better flame,and see what happens.I dropped the pump pressure down when I switched back to HHO last winter. I was worried the high pressure could blow a line ,making a possible fire hazard. I wish I could change the run time if no flame is sensed. I never timed it ,but it seems too long before it shuts the unit off. If the unit doen't light within 5-10 seconds it should kick out. That's how I feel,anyway.
 
Location: western new york | Registered: November 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I wish I could change the run time if no flame is sensed.

heatbeater
-the amount of time it takes to defaut the burner is determined by the burner contol box. I have used both honeywell and white rogers controls which are available in 15, 30 and 45 second default times. Any of the older home style furnaces that I have seen use the 30 second control, waste motor oil burners use the 45 second control. While you have the burner out replace the nozzle they are cheap, about 5 bucks CDN you can probably pick one up in your area for 3 bucks or less. Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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How is nozzle drip prevented? I remember seeing gunk inside the burner tube's lower side where it almost goes down into the combustion blower. To me that's caused by nozzle dripping fuel after it shuts down. I've seen fuel shutoffs ,but I don't really want to go that far.
 
Location: western new york | Registered: November 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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nozzle drip comes from left over pressure after shut down, I think. unavoidable?, and leads to coking/gumming on the nozzle tip, igniter, and flame tube. I clean the gun once a month, only takes 5 minutes.
 
Location: Ohio | Registered: March 30, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When running higher pump pressure post shutdown nozzle drip can happen.
Change out the nozzle with one that has an internal check valve. Your local plumbing supply house should have these.This should cure the drip.
Best of luck,
JoeD Smile
 
Location: Western Mass. | Registered: March 02, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Change out the nozzle with one that has an internal check valve.

I never knew one existed
 
Location: western new york | Registered: November 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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