anyone try these? may be a great add-on for a wood stove. there are several listed now.
Be the change you hope to find in this world.-Gandhi
I bought one and had it shipped to Ireland. The shipping cost more than the burner. Its a really well made item, typical of military gear. I have installed it in an oil drum with a 4 inch flue. Its best to start it with kerosene or even gasoline and then switch over to biodiesel. I use it in my workshop and it really belts out the heat. Next I want to try burning preheated yellow grease but it will probably be after Christmas before I get any spare time.
That's just a well-designed drip style burner. It should work well, but require regular cleaning from the unburned crud that accumulates when drip burning wvo.
I have one, but haven't fired it up yet (currently on the back burner, so to speak). If I fire it up any time soon, I'll be sure to post my experiences with it.
I don't trust the ebay ad when it says, "MUST BE VENTED UNLESS USING VEGETABLE OIL." I would definitely vent it regardless of fuel type.
Two tank system on an '89 F250
Working on an 81 Chevy Chevette
Attempting to resurrect a rusted out 85 Ford Tempo
Im not sure what you mean by a "drip burner". My understanding of a drip burner is where oil is dripped onto a hot plate, evaporates and catches fire. This type is often used to burn waste motor oil. The Alaska stove is what I would call a vaporising pot burner. A float valve maintains a shallow pool of oil on the floor of the pot. The surface of the oil evaporates mixes with air and burns near the top of the pot. Veg oil is only going to evaporate in this type of burner if it is well preheated. I use a Refleks 66mk oilstove which works on the same principle in my house. It runs well on biodiesel and no crud builds up in the burner at all even after months of continuous use. Ive never tried to use it with wvo.
I would agree with you about venting, no oil burning stove should ever be used without a proper flue.
Mercedes 250D on Biodiesel
Refleks 66MK oil stove.
I just bought one of these off ebay, can someone give ideas or pics of how they made them work in a 55 gal drum. I need ideas of how to make them work effiently and cheap of course.
Installing it into an oil drum is pretty straightforward. Cut 2 circular holes in the top of the drum, a 4" hole at the back for the flue pipe and a larger one at the front just slightly larger than the diameter of the burner. The burner is installed through this hole and it provides access for lighting and cleaning. Cut a circular plate of quarter inch steel 2 inches bigger than the hole to serve as a lid and a useful hot plate.
Cut a slot 3" high and 10" wide in the side of the drum right at the bottom at the front. This will allow air to flow in and is also where the oil supply pipe comes out.
The burner sits directly under the hot plate, close to the front of the stove. From thin sheet metal cut a large circle the size of the internal diameter of the drum, then cut a circular hole in it so that it will fit over the burner. Attach it inside the drum halfway up the side of the burner. This can be tricky. You need to fold the sheet to get it into the opening and then unfold and flatten it once in the drum. Now cut out and install a layer of 1" ceramic fibre mat on top of the sheet making sure to cover any gaps. This prevents air from rushing up the sides of the burner when in use. Mount the stove in position on three bricks and level using a spirit level. Fit the flue and install the oil control( sometimes called a carb) The rubber hoses supplied with the burner will last about a week in contact with biodiesel so replace them with three eighth copper pipe. The brass fittings supplied with the rubber hoses have a hose barb which fits neatly into the copper pipe and can be soldered into place. I fitted a T piece and 2 valves so that I can switch from one fuel to another. The stove is easy to light with kerosene and then you can switch over to biodiesel. Sometime soon I hope to try burning preheated yellow grease.
I hope that this information. I realize that although we all speak english a lot of our technical term are confusingly different. If you need clarification just ask. Good luck
Can you explain how the oil valve works? Is it under pressure, gravity fed, or what? Is there any reason it wouldn't work in a small wood burning stove?
Thanks in advance
The oil control is a small holding tank with a float valve which controls the level of oil. The bottom of the oil control is connected by a pipe to the bottom of the pot burner. Liquid always finds its own level so the height of the oil in the control is the same as the height in the burner. As oil burns in the burner the level drops in both the burner and in the control, the float valve opens and more oil enters by gravity fron the fuel tank.
The alaska oil burner could be installed in a wood stove but remember it is big. Check the measurements. It uses quite a bit of fuel when running hot, over a litre an hour.
Refleks 66MK oil Stove in my home.
Alaska oil burner in my workshop
Anyone know how to contact the seller without using ebay?
Great, thanks for the info.
So then would it just be gravity fed?
Never mind, I re-read and understand now.
thanks to all for inviting me to your group. i am the man with the m-1941 oil burners..thanks to the note on venting , i wrote that a while back and had in mine an open high roofed shop like my own..i will change it as i see it might lead someone astray. how about you in ireland , still living in the railroad station? being a retired conductor ,that would have been the place for me..i have in mine more than just heating the air with waste oil. i have to purchase bottled water , so i have in mine a still , and plan on a design to heat water and veggie oil with the same heat at the same time.also plan on firing a small marine steam engine with one..if any of this pans out , before i'm dead i want a waste oil air conditioner. after all global warmimg is here.
we have not had a freeze in 5 years. if you read this far i salute you..thanks again
Any pictures of the burner in operation?
2001 Dodge 3500 CTD running B100
Self appointed Minister Of Propaganda, Order Of The Semi Sealed Steel Drum Reactor
Currently washing and drying with a "Death Trap" heater.
good to hear from you again. Your stove is running well and heating my workshop nicely. I shouldnt be suprised if you get more orders from this side of the pond.
James, I sent you a PM regarding your other thread. I would like to know what comes with the heater, and what else would I have to get to get this up and running?
Can some of you tell me what you are burning in these? Also, how often do they need to be cleaned out?
Any body know if this type or heater could burn glycerin? Perhaps mixed with WVO or B100? I know it would have to get pretty hot to do so safely.
2001 Jetta, F-350, JD 2440 & IH 674 all on B100 when it's warm
I am really stupid, where do I lite this thing. I got it put together and what is the black thing with the ropes tied to it. I got the regulator, is it safe to just put a propane torch down by the fuel inlet and turn the fuel on.
This burner was intended for use in a tent. the black thing is a cap for the top of the flue and the ropes are guy ropes to steady the flue pipe. Remember the tv series MASH, they had one of these in every tent.
I light mine by putting a small piece of firelighter into the bottom of the pot and then turn on the fuel. I use kerosene to start with and then switch to biodiesel. Never try to light a potburner with fuel already in it, not if you value your facial hair.
After Christmas I hope to try burning hot filtered yellow grease, possibly with a small proportion of glycerol. I reckon it will burn but not very cleanly.
i posted the entire manual for the m-1941 stove and oiler burner on the free site. need to join yahoo groups and then join KENEFICKMOUNTAIN , all free..look under files.....it was 1 1952 manual , the only one found so far and i scanned it page by page
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