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Alaska boiler - made a start
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This is the spec sheet of the williamson pump I mean downloaded from their site. http://wmcpumps.co.uk/pdf/200_cm_spec.pdf
Are you going to make the adapter plate from the fire board, it would seem like a good material for the job. The adapter plate fits snugly around the burner and prevents air passing up the outside of the burner instead of through the burner.
I buy LT30 from my local hardware/builders merchant and it has the bond-it brand on it. Sorry, Ive just had a look and its HT30 from Bond-it.co.uk.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Evening John,

Thing is with that pump is it's 24volt and I want to work with 12v or lower.

Basically I have 2 choices:

1. get the 12v pump which is 31.5ml/min and get the flow right down to around 16.5.

2. get the 6v pump which is 15.75ml/min and I can up the voltage very slightly by a volt or so.

I'm leaning back to option 2 as it will give me more control if I need to lower the fuel supply (as I can turn down the voltage supply). I know I can do that with the 12v pump but it needs much bigger drops in voltage/supply to basically halve the speed.

I'm assuming that the volt v flow can be worked out by dividing the flow by the voltage then times the new voltage, so 15.75/6 x 4 would mean 10.48ml/min at 4 volts.

I knew I forgot something, the plate around the burner. I assume I'll need various vents though as the different holes will all need air flow to burn at different rates. So one vent under the plate and one above?

I just emailed bondit lol found the HT30 stuff now - http://www.bond-it.co.uk/produ...ails.php?prodId=1307
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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In the end as long as your pump will deliver 1 litre per hour plus or minus 10% for high and low it should be ok.
The plate should be a close fit to the burner and a large open vent in the door underneath the plate will supply all the air that is needed. A 1" peep hole with a sliding cover in the door above the level of the plate will let you see what is going on and give you some control over the strength of the draft.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Think I'm going for the original idea, the 6v pump as that's the nearest to 1 litre a minute.

So how do the holes for the low and medium burn get an air supply if there's no vent to them?

I intended to fit a stove glass in the door so there'll be a large viewing area. That way I can see the burn easily without allowing any more air in Wink
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The adapter plate fits around the the pot near the top so that air enters up the side to the med and low air holes. Make sure that air can also get under the pot to supply the high flame holes. A glass window is a good idea but you may need a closable vent above the adapter plate if your flue draws too strongly. Thats not very likely but it can happen.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Why has this subject been dropped. I have an alaske burner and have read a lot of information, and I would like to instal it in my fireplace. Keep up the posting. Please Jack
 
Registered: May 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Hi Jack,

Hasn't been dropped, I just haven't had time to spend on it Frown

I'm getting prices for the flue at the moment so once I've paid the car insurance, will order the flue.

Vijay
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks, How do you think an Alaske would do in a fireplace with glass doors?
 
Registered: May 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Flue pipe can be the most expensive part of these projects. Try to have about 2 metres straight up before any bends. Most of your flue will probably be double skinned insulated flue but you will need a short length of uninsulated pipe at the exit from the boiler if you want to attach safety thermostats. The temp of the flue will not exceed 150 degrees so the cheaper galvanized flue is adequate rather than the horribly expensive stainless type,
Jack, a stove or fireplace with a glass door is okay provided the burner will fit into the space. an adapter plate must be fitted around the burner to prevent air coming up the sides of the burner. The air vent at the bottom of the stove will be left full open or even removed to allow the pipe to exit to the control valve. the control valve might need to be shielded from radiated heat to prevent it getting hot and increasing the flow rate too much.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Finally made time to start the boiler housing. It's built against the outside kitchen wall which is covered by a lean to so no problems with rain. The 3 brick walls will be lined with 25mm fireboard to retain the heat. The front will have either 2 small doors or 1 large one, which again will be lined with 25mm fireboard. There will also be a top made of metal and once again lined with fireboard.


Hi Vijay9999,

I'm wondering if your Alaska boiler set up outside your kitchen wall worked out well for you. I'm working on doing something similar and siting one outside my boiler house (my boiler house interior is too small). Any learning points from your experience would be most welcome.
 
Location: Ireland | Registered: January 20, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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