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Alaska boiler - made a start
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Finally made time to start the boiler housing. It's built against the outside kitchen wall which is covered by a lean to so no problems with rain. The 3 brick walls will be lined with 25mm fireboard to retain the heat. The front will have either 2 small doors or 1 large one, which again will be lined with 25mm fireboard. There will also be a top made of metal and once again lined with fireboard.

Pic of progress so far
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The casing for the HE is now done. Looking at ordering the dosing pump next.

 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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sorry I didnt see your post sooner, I dont look at the heating section until the weather turns cold. The brick housing looks great. The top of the burner should be no more than 8 inches away from the bottom of the heat exchanger to maximise the output. Position the access door so that you can clean the burner easily.
My cleaning routine involves raking the bottom of the burner with a poker or long screwdriver to loosen the crusty stuff and then sticking the vacuum cleaner hose into suck it out. It only takes a minute but good access makes all the difference.
I dont have access to the upper (heat exchanger) part of my boiler but I clean it once a year by burning a wax soot cleaner tablet in the burner.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Steve,

Did you get my email?

Been on to Williamson about a pump, it's leaning towards the 202.035..006.030 pump which is a 6v 15.75ml/min (voltage can go up slightly to get over the 1 litre hour), 3mm viton tube.

I thought the flame would be higher than 8". I've left a 12" gap as it'll be easy enough to raise the burner over lowering the heat exchanger. I've been told that the flue may pull the flame up slighly once it's hot so took that into account Wink

There'll be either 1 large door or 2 smaller ones (upper and lower) to allow access to both the burner and heat exchanger. Need to make cleaning as easy as possible so every day isn't a chore.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: vijay9999,
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No I didnt get your email, my email address is imakebiodiesel@o2.ie,thats a letter o and not a zero.
It looks as if you will be able to adjust the height of your burner so you can try out different heights.
Two openings will give you better access for cleaning so as long as they are well sealed no problem.

I would go for 5 mm tube if possible, less chance of a blockage, and an max output of more than a litre per hour is better, that way the pump should be working at about half capacity most of the time.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just sent another, think I used a zero Wink

I'll probably end up with 2 doors as I'll only need to access the top half after the winter to clean the heat exchanger. I intended to use fire rope for a seal on the doors, thinking if that's all that's needed on a woodburner, it should be fine on this - I hope! lol

I'd like to go for 5mm but if I do the flow rate goes up to 31.5ml/min, so nearly 2 litres an hour. He said that the 6 volt motor will happily run at 9-10 volts, even 12, so I have more control over the 6 volt one with 3mm tube. I want to be able to try and gets ome control over the flow rate by controlling the voltage/motor speed. http://www.wmcpumps.com/pdf/200_dc_motor_spec.pdf

It's not a major thing to have a strainer on top of my fuel supply tank, intended to do that anyway Winkso hopefully there'll be no blockages in the fuel lines.

Talking of fuel lines, what did you use from the pump to the burner?
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I use 10mm copper pipe with just a short length of clear pvc from the pump to the copper pipe. The brass hose barbs supplied with the burner hoses can be soldered neatly into the end of the copper pipe.
Are you going to be using biodisel? If not there is no need to have a viton tube. My house boiler runs on yellow grease and a silicone rubber tube is fine for that.
The burner in my workshop runs on biodiesel and waste motor oil and it must have viton.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My thoughts are there will be 2 fuel tanks, 1 small tank of biodiesel to start the burner and 1 larger tank of WVO to keep the burner going. So I'll need a viton hose cos of the bio.

Do you not get smoke burning old motor oil?
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No smell, no smoke, just a heat haze rising from the flue. A fair bit of residue left in the burner but very soft and easy to clean out.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'll have to try it once my set up is up and running Smile
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just bear in mind that wmo requires less preheating than wvo. I use 110degrees for wvo and 65 for wmo.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi,

Does it make a difference if the fuel (whether it's WVO or WMO)is too hot as it enters the pot?
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Been waiting on Williamson pumps to advise me some flow rates for a pump but they were less than helpful. Even though he worked it out on the phone last week, he obviously was in a bad mood today cos he said he was too busy and to work it out myself. So basically I have to order a pump and hope it does what he said last week. I wish I didn't have to buy from them as I hate giving rude people my money Frown

Got the doors made today. Still have the top of each to cut and shape but can't do that until the fireboard is in them.

 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Its looking good.

The pumps I use are the aquadoser units which dont come as standard with viton. Looking at their range I would choose the 202.070.024.030 which delivers roughly a max of 2 litres an hour. Using either the variable voltage control or the cycle time adjuster it would be easy to control. Remember that if your pipes are empty its handy to turn it up full and speed up the time it takes to get the fuel through to the burner. The new cycle time adjuster is a good idea because the pump runs intermittently which will keep it cooler.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: imakebiodiesel,
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi John,

Where do they sell cycle time adjusters?

I went with what they first advised, a 6volt, 15.75ml a minute pump with a 3mm viton hose. He initially said it will run from 12v up to 10v easily but then ended the advice (I wanted to know the flow v voltage rates).

Also got the flat plate heat exchanger sorted.

Vijay
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Started cutting the fireboard for the lining. Just got the 2 doors and top to do now Smile

 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I like what you are doing. I was thinking about the alaska burner in a fireplace. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks Jack
 
Registered: May 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The latest 202 variable speed pumps from Williamson have both a voltage control and a cycle time adjuster. The voltage control does what it says, turns the voltage, and therefore the speed ofthe pump, up and down. the disadvantage of the voltage control is that at lower speeds the motor is very weak and can easily be stopped by particles and thicker liquids.
The cycle time adjuster works in a different way. It switches on the pump for a short time and then switches it off. You can adjust the on time and the off time. The advantage of this system is that the motor can run at full power and the off times allows the motor to run cooler. I had a Seko peristaltic pump with a cycle time which worked very well. The only problem was that the pump was really crap and broke down after a couple of weeks.
The fire board looks really neat, if you are doing any sealing with mastic I have found Bond-it Lt30 high temp silicone is fantastic stuff.
Fitting an alaska burner can be fitted to a fireplace if it has stove type doors which will prevent the flue from drawing in air above the burner. it will not work in an open fireplace.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I've found the voltage control but nothing about a cycle time adjuster http://www.williamson-shop.co....--sundries-271-c.asp

Just looked on the bondit website, can't see an lt30
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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pulse width modulator is what I need then apparently
 
Registered: October 02, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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