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after washing my biodiesel with a nozzle and water I transfer it to a 80ltr drum.
Then I use a fish tank pump with two hoses with bubble rocks on the end and turn the air pump on.
At the same time I use a cooling fan to blow over the tank pointing down a bit to blow the diesel dry
I have shined a 1w led torch (very intense beam )into the biodiesel and I cannot see the bottom of the drum when I start this but after 4 hours or so depending on the outside temperature 20c at the moment I can see the biodiesel is clear as a bell DRY AND READY TO SLIP IN MY TANK

Hope this helps as its cheap to do as the air pump is only 5w and the fan is 35w.
better still run it off my solar generating system.


The best things in life are FREE well nearly
I build Solar Trackers and Wind Turbines
 
Location: Norwich United Kingdom | Registered: 10 August 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Do you run a frige test? I have seen bd that was nice and bright and clear turn cloudy overnignt in the frige. When I tested it with the Imanometer it had a very high water content yet after sitting at room temp over night it was back to clear and bright. Add some heat to your system and you should dry fine.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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the first batch I made I kept a small amount in a bottle in my van to see if it went hazy during the night as temps fell and sure it went hazy but cleared as it got warmer
but my new batch stays cristle day or night this time
will stick the bottle in my fridge which is 4c and see if its OK think it will pass the test pretty sure this batch is fine.
been reading loads of good advice on forums on Greydon blairs .


The best things in life are FREE well nearly
I build Solar Trackers and Wind Turbines
 
Location: Norwich United Kingdom | Registered: 10 August 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Don't know what motor you are running this fuel in but you aren't doing it any good by putting that water in there. At the least if you have a steel tank you are going to have it rust thru at some time.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Good point. The fridge test is by no means conclusive evidence of dry fuel. At best it's an indication that the fuel is not excessively wet. A vapor test or hot pan test is better.


--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.--

'89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE
BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends
 
Location: North of 60° | Registered: 03 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The frige test is pretty good but you need to keep the bd in overnight to be a good test. A few hours may not be long enough. I will say that every time I have tested fuel with the Imanometer test it shows fuel that has passed frige to be very dry fuel.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have no doubt that very dry fuel passes the fridge test, and wet fuel won't. The important question is: what's the ppm H2O of fuel that just starts to show haze at 36°F? The HPT shows H2O greater than 500ppm, the generally accepted level of allowable moisture content, that's what makes it a better test.


--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.--

'89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE
BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends
 
Location: North of 60° | Registered: 03 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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John I don't keep up on HPT info and am sure I wouldn't do it correctly. I'll bet a lot of folks would benefit from your posting of a procedure standard. My frige pass fuel has been below 200 ppm in the past but I have messed with my Imanometer and need to calibrate it again.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Here's a link to a number of moisture tests, including the HPT. My qualitative preference is the quick and easy vapor test.
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=72
I agree that you are producing dry BD fuel, especially since you've confirmed it with a carbide test. [calling it a manometer test is a misnomer, the carbide is the active test reagent. One could also call it a magnahelic test and be equally misleading]
My point is that the 'fridge test' indicates that there is less than 1000 ppm moisture, and that's simply not adequate for 'dry' fuel. Until someone can calibrate the threshold of the fridge test with an instrument of recognized accuracy like the SandyBrae, then what it's actually showing is open to conjecture.


--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.--

'89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE
BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends
 
Location: North of 60° | Registered: 03 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I think its a good idea to correlate the fridge test with the results of a more accurate test such as W/H/W or the carbide manometer. That way the home brewer has a quick and easy test that he can have confidence in.
However I think it would be a mistake to post the results on this forum because there will always be people who will think that it would apply in every situation. Variations in the feedstock, fridge temperature, pho content, animal fat content , conversion rate, soap content etc. will affect the outcome of the fridge test.
Posting a result could easily lead to people using wet fuel that they think is dry.
which is not exactly the objective of this forum.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: 25 November 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Good point about not posting the results, too many things consider.
 
Location: SF Bay Area | Registered: 02 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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