I get the BD out of the reactor & wash it really good, then I put it in an OPEN tank & BUBBLE the HECK out of it for about 3 or 4 days or longer, is that an AOK way to dry it or is there something better???
A "better" way is to spread the BD's spray out and have a fan blow air over it as it circulates.
A couple hours adding heat to the biodiesel will dry 80 litres.
Orrr, you can do away with water altogether and use ion exchange resin. I've done both and MUCH prefer resin. Click on my reactor link and scroll downto the washing section. I have both methods outlined.
** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.
Use heat. I put my wet BD in a open top barrel, drop in a bucket heater, bring it to 120f while using a fish tank bubbler to stir. On top of the barrel I have a disk of plywood with two holes in it. One hole has a muffin fan over it blowing down and the other is a vent. I am going out back today to dry 40 gallons and it is foggy and damp, I will have fully dried BD in four hours. I always put a sample in the fridge overnight to check for water as a final test.
I like the idea of Ion exchange resin in principle, but I’m afraid that I will get caustic soda in the injection pump with disastrous results when the resin becomes saturated with contaminants, how do you know when the resin is saturated with glycerine, soap, caustic soda etc? Do you test the bio for PH and soap as it comes out? Also I’m concerned about the gallons of wasted Methanol used in regenerating the resin; I don’t think a plumbers delight still is good enough to fully dewater the methanol used for regeneration of the resin. I believe a simple still such as the plumbers delight can still leave as much as 5 or 10% water in the methanol. Enough water to ruin a batch of bio, if it is used for making bio diesel.
VW Passat 2.0 TDI with a BKP engine 86,000 miles on B100 and not going strong. Bio-diesel broke oil pump drive shaft! ..No oil pressure, dead turbo.