BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS




You can search the Forum Archives HERE
Sponsors    Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  Oil Collection    PHO OC-20 Dewater issues
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
-star Rating Rate It!  Login/Join 
Member
Posted
I am looking for an authority on this to help answer a question. I have read pages and pages on forums and everyone seems to go off in different tangents so I am asking for some direct feedback without this thread getting hyjacked.

1. pho oil that is pretty clean but has lots of bubbles on hot pan test.
2. oil is heated to 125 and settled in a seperate insulated barrell (usually 1-2 days). this gets some crud and water out but still lots of bubbles in the hpt.
3. oil goes into my filter barrell and heated to 160-185 and circulated at 90 psi.
4. bubbles get smaller after a few passes.
5. It takes usually 8 passes before I get few tiny bubbles on the hpt.

I am guessing that with pho that it takes alot of heat to break the water emulsion. The oc-20 is supposed to catch water but there is no difference in the oil that I catch in the rotor and at shutdown when I hot pan test it. The only way the oil is getting dewatered is by evaporation over time in an open barrell circulation (in my opinion).

I know my oil is really clean but dewatering takes forever(10k+ on donaldson so far). With my current setup, does anyone see how I can do things different to dewater in fewer passes??

Any help appreciated
 
Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
One additional question: does anyone that runs a dieselcraft have similar results? I'm trying to figure out if this is normal or if I have to change something.
 
Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Have you tried cold upflow settling? My WVO passes the HPT after one pass through my upflow. New oil is settled for one week minimum then filtered 50 micron prior to going into the upflow.


1991 OBS Ford 7.3IDI E350 cargo van. Running 50-75% WVO. 90k original miles on this former bucket truck. Looking to start or join a WVO coop in the Akron Ohio area.
 
Location: Akron, Ohio | Registered: 19 July 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
I tried heat and settle with my pho in a 55 gallon barrel but it didn't seem to work at all. I built a larger heat and settle tank out of a 275 gallon tote wrapped with 220 feet of ice melt cable then 4 inches of insulation wrapped all around. I should mention that I pulled the tote out of its cage and wrapped the cable tight to the tote, spaced about every 2 inches. Then I put 2 inches of cellotex insulation in the bottom of the cage , then put the tank back into the cage and wrapped with the 4 inches of insulation.

The cable is 5 watts per foot, so that comes out to only 1100 watts. Fill tote with oil, pho or not, usually mine is 50+% pho, plug in cables and let sit for 24 hours. Temperature rises from 65 to 145 degrees. Let it settle for at least another 24 hours(temp. still at 135 degrees). and my hpt did not pass, but it was remarkably better. I then take my oil and put into a drying barrel that consists of a simple harbor freight pump recirculating and splashing back onto the surface of the oil. Bring temp up 200+ degrees and recirculate for 4 hours for 4 hours. I have done this for 300 gallons of oil so far and every time it has passed the hpt. Not exactly what you are looking for with your centrifuge, but it is working well for me. Maybe some help for you?
 
Location: smithville flats, ny | Registered: 28 August 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Mind you I purchased my Dieselcraft CF less than a month ago. And have only pushed about 150 gallons through it. But I’ve always passed the hot pan test. But my over all set up is different than yours. I’ve found over the years of filtering and driving on WVO that time and settling is your best filter.
But do understand that you’re going to need to talk to your source about adding water to your drum/tank. You might have to provide them with a second water drum to put the waste oil/ water in that drum when they are done cleaning out the fryer. You need to ask yourself why your oil is so watery to begin with and deal with that problem. If the location isn’t willing to make changes for you,, then you will need to add both space, settling, and time to your oil filtering process.
Again, settling and time is your best filter. I collect all my grease out of my drums and place them in my settling tanks for a week to allow them to settle out. Then I pump 8-10 inches off the bottom through a 178 micron screen. It’s a goldenrod mess reusable filter screen. Cost about $18.00 shipped. Then it gets pushed into my DieselCraft CF tank and that gets heated up to 160-180 degrees with a bucket heater. Then I turn on the DieselCraft CF and put it up to 82 PSI and leave it running for 3 hours.
I test my oil every time, using the fry pay test and haven’t ever had a problem. The problem everyone is having, is every time anyone, goes out to get oil, it’s going to be completely different oil every time you get the oil. You will never get the same oil from the same location. So it’s hard to say that your oil is better or worse than mine or your or the next guy reading this post. Every filtering system has to be adapted to the oil sources you have. Over time you get the idea of what needs to be done to work with your oil sources. Don’t worry It takes time, but you’ll get it.


Michael R Mullins
Green Conversions
www.austingreenconversions.com

87 MB 300SDL with greasecar kit

VW 98 Jetta TDI with greasecar kit, Installed March 2005. totaled
 
Location: Austin TX | Registered: 04 August 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
  Powered by Eve Community  
 

Sponsors    Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  Oil Collection    PHO OC-20 Dewater issues

© Maui Green Energy 2000 - 2009