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www.lib.ncsu.edu/theses/availa...unrestricted/etd.pdf

I found this the other day. Seems like this guy did some serious work on the subject of burning glycerin. It looks similar to some of the burners I have seen on this site but there are some slight differences that might be significant, especially the atomization of the glycerin and the dwell time of the glycerin in the combustion area. I am looking to build a burner and I was wondering what you experienced guys think of this design. Did this guy get it right?
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I thought it was all pretty clever. I have a print-out of his Figure 5 hanging on my shop wall for if I ever get around to trying it myself.
 
Location: Southern WI, USA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This may be on the right track, I might just have to build one. I wonder if it has to be vertical? It seems to me that the vernturi would be less likely to coke up if it was horizontal. Am I missing something, or are they using a stock nozzle out of a ready heater?

the trick for a few of us, is that we are using naoh which means solid gycerin. I could either keep a tank hot with a hot water set up, or somehow build the gycerin tank like a doughnut around part of the burner, so the nat. gas pre heat would warm up the tank of gycerin. once the burner was running, It would provide it's own heat. I have the gycerin, now what do I do with all that heat? I'd have to be burning it 24hrs a day to get rid of what we are drumming up. If the burner and a steam engine set up wouldn't need constant babysitting, I'd go that route. The idea of working with steam scares me a bit though.

One thing I noticed, the fuel tube needed to be heated and insulated to get this to work well. I wonder if they were using compressor air in the fuel tube assembly. I bet the problems would go away if the fuel tube air was pre heated in the burn chamber somehow.


powering
2 bobcats, an excavator, and a ventrac mower. looking for a diesel weedeater!
 
Location: morgantown wv | Registered: June 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've got a greenhouse to heat so I expect I could use all the glycerin I can make. I too was thinking how to turn it on its side. Perhaps having the glycerin dripping down and having the compressed air blowing it into the combustion area, kind of like an upside-down airbrush. The cap on the combustion chamber seems to make a lot of difference too. The cap along with the swirling of the air in the chamber is a quite different from a simple turk burner. Also, the necking in of the tube at the top would significantly alter the airflow. Maybe time to build a prototype?
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I think I'd build the same thing they built, just lay it on it's side. and see what happens. I think the nozzle is key to getting the thing to be stable. the vacuum created by the air going past the glycerin orifice in addition to the fuel pressure from a glycerin pump, probably keeps the gycerin flowing before it gets cold. I'm thinking that wrapping the air supply around the burner a few times before it goes inside the burner and in the nozzle tube would help. Of course I have been wrong before. I kind of skimmed the paper, did the author say specifically how big the nozzle was, or maybe what brand?

I was wondering if you could just use 4" threaded black iron then use a 4x2 bell on both ends of a 2" pipe to make the venturi. that would turn this build into a single evening. to cut in the radial air ports, and the propane inlets, I'd use a bimetal hole saw bit it makes a very neat hole. . it looks like the radial pipes are 3/4" I'm going to guess the air flow is going to have to be pretty low during preheat with gas or propane, to prevent flame-out. I've never built any gas burner nozzles, most of those I have seen seem pretty small. I guess this thing is going to have to be built and do a good test. I know it works, I saw it on the internet...


powering
2 bobcats, an excavator, and a ventrac mower. looking for a diesel weedeater!
 
Location: morgantown wv | Registered: June 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yep the venturi has got me stumped too. I think that 60 degree angle should probably be maintained to get the proper vacuum. I think everything would have to be smooth so there would be no eddys or distuptions in the airflow. I was thinking more along the line of thin sheet metal that I could make cones out of. I wonder if I could make something out of clay and just let it "fire" in the tube? That would be simple if it would stay in place and take the heat. Does anyone know if there are any ready-made nozzles like these plans?
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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CT
-interesting paper! Here is a burner that I have been using, it burns glycerin,biodieael, and waste motor oil and has all the parts listed in the schematic on page 31 but is much more compact.



here is a burn on glycerin (byproduct)



here is the pump set up



" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Biotom,

Does your system burn pure demethed glycerol or do you have to mix it with something? This burner supposedly can sustain a good flame with just demethed glycerol.
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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-my byproduct was not demethed, but there is no reason to think it won't work since you can preheat the byproduct in the burner to whatever temp you need for combustion by the electrode type igniters. Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Do you get much smoke? It seems like you would not get complete combustion (according to the paper) with that type of set up. There would not be enough dwell time in the combustion area. Of course, having the methanol in your glycerin is another animal.
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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-yes methanol allows for a simple start, but the amount of smoke IMO is a product of the fuel/air mixture once the fire is established, there is always a bit of smoke on start up and shut down, other than that it is a clean burn!

-in this pic the fire is on!


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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is the fuel being pumped or is it siphoned by the airflow?
 
Location: Asheville, NC | Registered: January 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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-the fuel is being pumped into the air flow. I have only tinkered with this a few times to see if it would work, to burn byproduct in my outdoor furnace at -40C would require adding hot water lines in the feed tank to keep the byproduct warm enough to flow. Tom


" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Tom!
That looks like a standard oil burner pump, is it?
If so are you just running it stock or are you using some type of pressure regulation?
What about the nozzle?
How are you heating the preheat chamber prior to the boiler getting warmed up?
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Jon
-the pump is a suntec waste oil pump,(same body as regular heating oil pump but the gears inside are thicker) pressure is regulated by the speed of the pump, but the air pressure also has a bearing on pump pressure. It,s just a matter of balancing the two to get a clean burn. the pre heat is from an enterally mounted (on the side of the pre heat chamber) oil pan heater that I control with a HWT thermostat. Temperature control would be better with a PID. The nozzle is a brass T Jet nozzle from a farm suppy.

-here's a picture of the business end of the burner, note one electrode is missing



" I don't know what I don't know until I know"
1994 GMC 6.5 Tubo 2005 Dodge ram 3500, 3 VW's 2000, 2002, 2005.
 
Location: Manitoba Canada | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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