MAKING BIODIESEL WITH THE APPLESEED PROCESSOR


Follow the listed steps and you will most likely have bio that meets or is close to the ASTM standards(gov't standards for fuel usage).
Read up alot on biodiesel and how to make it. Learn what it is and try to understand before starting. The internet has a lot of sites with info. (www.biodiesel.com) was my main page and I was able to call and ask questions from management. The main process is the taking of dirty used veg oil and mixing it with a chemical solution(metn & Lye) and creating Biodiesel.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.Collecting oil
2.Filtering Oil
3.Drying Oil,titration, Dr.Pepper, 27/3 test
4.Transfer to processor
5.Making meth/lye mix
6.Adding Methoxide to oil and circulatin oil
7.Testing processed oil for proper completion
8.Transfer to poly wash/dry tank
9.Washing oil
10.Drying Oil
11.Re-testing for completion
13.Transfer to containers for storage.
14.Clean-up



1. Find your oil source. When talking to the oil owners ask them how often they change their oil. Some change daily or weekly(excellent), others change monthly or more(bad). The change time will decide how good the oil is and how easy it will be to process. Most places have a large oil barrel which companies rent to restaurants for oil disposal. The Gov't requires restaurants to use these companies for health reasons. The wrong thing is that the restaurants have to rent the container and put the oil into the barrel which they bought and then the companies pick up the oil for disposal,i.e; reselling to oil companies that make biodiesl and or soap. The pick-up companies make out both ways.Some places will let you syphon oil out of the barrels.

So, take the 5 gallon plastic containers(as many as you want to collect oil) along with the fill-rite pump, battery and go get the oil. I used a galvanized pipe and stuck the hose into the pipe which allows you to control the area in the barrel that you syphon from. If you don't use the pipe the hose will curl around and not syphon good. Once you get your oil,go home and start part#2.
Additional info.: Try not to syphon up the goop in the bottom, it will work but is difficult to work with. Next, sometimes you will syphon up debris which will shut off the unit immediately. No problem. Carry a wrench the size of the nuts on the front of the pump and unscrew them and also carry a pick to pull the black circular disk out. Clean insides and then put back together and test, should work good.

2. Once at home, I will filter the oil and clean the container that you collected the oil in. Once filtered, put it back into the containers. I used a spagetti type strainer and then added window screen strips cut to size into the strainer. You should get a lot of debris, if not, good oil.

3. I use a 55 gallon metal barrel with a barrel heater and home made bubble setup. Also I put a pump on the barrel with piping from the pump into the top of the barrel. This way I can circulate the oil and dry off the water quicker.
The main purpose of this method is to dry any water in the oil(VERY IMPORTANT STEP).
After drying the oil at around 200 for a couple of days I will take a sample and heat it in a pan over a camp stove until I reach a high enough temperature to start bubbling or smoking. I use a thermometer(meat type) 200 deg's or 300 deg's should do it.
When I have a dry sample I will let it cool down to around 120/130 deg's. Now, take a titration test(explained in books or in forums) and then make a Dr. Pepper one liter batch and let it settle. After the batch settles take and make a 27/3 test. These methods are all explained in books or forums. I will try to explain them later on.

4. Once your satisfied with the samples, transfer the oil into the processor. Temperatures should be around 120/130 for processing.

5. The books and forums will tell you different methods on how to make the methoxide(Meth and Lye Mix). I always used 22 liter of meth, 11 in one container 11 in the second(same type container-xtra clean-that collected oil).
Now is a very important part. I purchased slider weight scales for accuracy.
Everyone talks about a base of 5% to 5.5% NAOH Lye and a different amount for the KOH lye. NAOH is cheaper and a little more difficult to disolve, but worked for me. Now you take the # from the original titration test, hopefully around 3,,4,5, but could be more. Preferable low #, and add it to your choice of 5% or 5.5% and that is the amount of lye that you put into your meth.
EXAMPLE: 22 liters of meth and 5.5+4=9.5. So 9.5 x 100 liters of oil= approx 909gms of lye. divide it in half and put into meth. Don't forget to add weight of container used to weight lye. Meth is measured in liter, oil in liter and lye in gms. (1 gal =3.78 liters)

6. Now you have oil in the processor and at around 120/130 degress. Pump is on and circulating. Hook up first container with 11 liters of meth/lye mix. Open valve slowly and monitor flow. Should be slow. You might want to open the valve(slightly) which is in line from the base of water tank(where drain us to be) and from drain line (comes from pump). See diagragm. Once finished with this add second container and add meth. NOW CIRCULATE FOR 2 TO 3 HOURS. Next step will tell when finished.

7. Now, turn off pump and take a sample batch from the top valve above pump and let settle. Turn pump back on. Once batch is settled, take and make a 27/3 test for the results and to determine completion. It should have no settling of oil. Should be clear after about 1/2 to 1 hr. The 27/3 test is easy. Take a small jar with tight lid., add 27ml of meth(no lye) and then 3ml of oil(from top of sample-no black glycerin), both room temp, put on cap and shake rapidly, then settle. If test is good, go to #8. If not, you might have to make small amounts of meth/lye add to batch in processor and continue processing. This is another process, covered either later or in the books or forums.

8. Transfer oil to poly tank, put lid on poly tank first, stops pressure splash and meth fumes. Once oil is in tank, turn on heater, cover and let sit over night.

9. Next morning, drain off glycerin into 5 gal poly containers-clean-wear mask so fumes are at a minimal(powerful headache stuff). Then use homemade misting device to mist with the heat on. I used 1/2 pvc in an "L" shape for balance, tied one end to stand and then put 3 to 4 misters into the mister couplings you can buy. Turn on warm water from hose connected to top of water heater(separate water heater in shed for misting,washing equipment,etc.), and mist for about 1 or 2 hrs, just about 5 gallons. Let settle either 4hrs or overnight. Next morning, using bucket and drain line, drain out white soap and debris until oil color, (too much and you loose product). Then mist again same way, settle,drain. This process should be done at least twice, to avoid an emulsification(bad news). Now either pour 4 0r 5 gal of warm water or use a hose to add and then turn on heat,bubbler and circulate for 1 or 2 hrs ,maybe more. Then settle and drain repeatedly until water drained out is clear enough to see thru or drinking clear. Too many times won't hurt, just uses a lot of water. Where you pour the water is up to you. If you have animals, don't pour where they will lick it. Meth/lye might be in it and can kill the animals.

10. Drying oil is just a matter of proper time put into it. I use a heater(fish tank type) and a home made bubbler . If I want to rush it, I also have a pump added to the poly take with plumbing so I can use clear plastic hoses to circulate oil. Drying time could be 2hrs or 2 days, depending on you. To determine dryness, take a small sample and hold up to light(sun) and if you see sparkles and can also read the writing on a bottle (thru the oil) should be good. No floating matter in oil.The more you dry the better.

11.Sometimes I will do another 27/3 test and boil some of the oil for water. There are several other tests used, but these worked for me.

12. I then transfer the oil to 5 gallon containers using the pump with two filter units attached to the end of the hose going into the containers. Then either put into veh or into 55 gal poly barrels in garage or any other place. These barrels serve as my service station with another fill-rite service station pump attached.

13. Run warm water into first metal 55 gal barrel amd then into poly barrel and use pump to circulate water thru and into buckets for throw away. If you leave oil in pumps for too long it will clog unit. Then on the processor I added a fitting next to methoxide fitting and ran a hose from water heater as before to fill processor will I would drain the old junk, soap and debris out. When that seams clear enough, I will open all drains and let drain out. Then final step I added a quick connect with shutoff valve onto the line coming out of the bottom of the main water heater(processor) and then used a hand pump with small line to suck out last bit of stuff. Then left valves open, so inside of tank can dry. Better to be safe, then sorry!!!

Now you have quality Bio-Diesel for your own use. I've run B100.B20,B5 and it works good. All reports said that B-5 is the safest and will meet ASTM Standards and warranties.



1.MAKING METHOXIDE -- if you use 20% or 22% meth in making your methoxide for the processing then use that % when doing the methoxide mix. If you use 5% or 5.5% lye then use that %.
Example: 22 liters meth-- Lye 5.5gms with % lets say 4%(titration results)=9.5gms. So, 9.5 gms x 100 gallons of oil approx 909gms lye. Now, 22 liter meth and 909gms lye.Mix for process. I use 11 in one container and 11 in the other. When making lye % add the weight of container used to weight. divide that total and put into containers. Now you should have 2 containers with equal amounts of methoxide. Dissolve good before using.



2. 27/3 test -- take as above either 20ml or 22mls of meth into a small jar with good top and add 3gms of oil. Both at room temperature. Shake hard and let settle. No droplets should show up in bottom. After about 1/2 to 1hr it should be real clear with nothing in the bottom.



3. Titration- This test will determine how much lye you will add to the meth. for your solution in creating biodiesel.
a. First you need to create a solution of water and lye which is called stock. This solution can be used several times, so keep it in a tightly sealed jar.Put 500ml of distilled water into a 1 liter jar. Add 5gms of lye and shake thoroughly until dissolved.
b. Second, Materials to use to make titration.
1. 2 small bowls that will hold 50ml of liquid
2. 3 small syringes which show 1ml to 10nml
3. bottle(they say 91%) isoprophl alcohol,regular works
4. Phenyl red(swimming pool solution)
5. stirring stick(chop sticks work good)
6. 2 0r 3 small jars like salt and pepper shakers or baby food jars
7. scales that measure 1gm accurately.
c. Third- Doing test.
1. Draw 10ml of alcohol and put in bowl.
2..Put in 3 or 4 drops of phenyl red swirl around until goes red or purple
3. draw 20ml solution(previously made stock) and add 1 or 2 drops while swirling around until color changes to yellow.
4. draw 1ml (room temp) oil (either newly collected or already dried-I prefer already dried) and put in bowl and swirl.
5. Now, use the stock(previously drawn) and while swirling solution around put 1 drop at a time into solution with oil until it goes purple and stays that way for at least 1 minute.
6. Do this test at least 3 times to average out a % to use.
7. This will be the # that you add to the 5 or 5.5% for your batch.



4. Miscellaneous test I use, not documented.
a. Bowling oil in pan over cook stove.
b. Drawing sample oil from processor to see how fast it settles and then taking a 27/3 test.



5. Re-Test-used if you made a marginal batch with droplets in the 27/3 test.
a. You can test by using 1 liter of biodiesel(your failed product), mix 75ml meth and 1g or so, dissolve. Puor into bio and shake, let settle. This process gets more complicated, so I just cut corners and do a 27/3 test to see if it passes. If it does, use that recipe and multiply the bio you are making and re-process the full quantity.



6. Shake-um test-- Once you feel that your bio passes all tests after drying and washing. You could try this test,(I don't use it) Put some Finished Bio into a sealable jar and add 1/4 content of water. Tighten jar and shake vigorously. Let settle. Clear water should drop to the bottom quickly



Appleseed Processor add-ons- I use 3 containers.

1. Appleseed processor
a.on the bottom where the pipe elbows I put in a tee and shutoff. That way I can use a suction pump to clean out junk.

b. I setup a hose connection like the meth connections, but have a hose that I can turn on and fill the processor and drain junk. Basic house cleaning.

c. I took the temp gauge which is(according to directions on the bottom) and put it on the top above the inlet, easier to read.

2.55 gallon barrel without lid(open).
a.Make additional filter for barrel. Use 2 whisky barrel rings with window screen material. Press together to hold the screen, then put on top of barrel for second filtering of oil. Works great. You will get goop in bottom of barrel, unless your oil is high grade.

So, This is how I solved that problem: I rigged up a pump (Harbor freight type), and used it to circulate from the bottom of the barrel to the opening on top.

3.Poly 40 Gal Container is a cone bottom with stand.
a. I settle, wash and dry in this tank. I also rigged up the line to another pump as I did the dry tank.

The barrel should be metal pipes and the poly can be plastic hose.

I hope this helps a little. Every batch is a different experience.

I tried to add pictures, but constantly turned down because of size. if you want photos, email me at fiegee@yahoo.com and I will send them..