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G'day behoof;
This "oil" will be very cold weather sensitive, being a fully hydrogenated oi mixed with tallows. Unless you live near or in the tropics it may be more trouble than it's worth. I used to use a partly hydrogenated oil and it made fine fuel but geled at 7C. The stuff I have been using for the last year or so is a "liquid hydrogenated vegetable oil" and also makes good fuel and is a little more cold weather tolerant, -7C. However I am working on a volume of used liquid canola wchich tests have shown to be good to -16C ambient, -7C liquid temp. If it were my situation I would look for another source. In the long run it is considerably less hastle. ** 7 engines on B100**My reactor/processor :B100WH.com **The Colaborative Biodiesel Tutorial **Make Biodiesel.org ** Veggie Energy 4 Diesels -a Newcomer's Hardware Guide ** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - Make & sell soap from Biodiesel Glycerine **The Ultimate Winter B100 System |
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Welcome
I been told by a "Bioneer" to stay away from doughnut oil as it has a high level of sugar. I don't know exactly what the negative effects of sugar are, but I turned down a bakery because of this warning. Maybe you could get them to seperate the stocks. 87 Chevy 6.2 K30 with a biodiesel habit. |
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Thanks for the reply, you're probably right. I'm still gonna hope for someone to give some info that will help me to use this effectively. I really figured it would be a problem. I'm gonna see if I can give them the equipment to use two disposal drums and hopefully keep it seperate? Yeah right, a kid making $5/hr is really gonna care which drum it goes in, right <smile>! Skip aka behoof 1996 Ford XLT 7.3TD Summer B100 / Winter B20-40 |
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Thank you for the reply and I agree on the seperating the oils... I'll see if it's a workable solution? 96 Ford F250 7.3L TurboDiesel 1996 Ford XLT 7.3TD Summer B100 / Winter B20-40 |
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I've been following a thread on pre-washing the wvo with water, baking soda, and sometimes flour (sounds weird, I know), so, for sugar contamination, atleast its water soluble so maybe this water pre-washing would fix it right up in that regard.
Search for "reducing FFA without 2 stage process", or something like that, to read about it. |
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Ryan, I just came in from heating 100litres of this WVO to 210F for 4hrs w/5gal of water and I added 8oz of baking soda and had it mixing all the while. It bubbled pretty neat for a bit and formed an interesting layer (scum is what it looks like) on the top. I started to remove the top layer by just scraping it off, not to bad to do really. Now I'm letting it seperate the rest of the way, oh yeah, and I took off most of the water that I had mixed with it. Just for giggles I titrated the hot oil 3 times and got a reading of 6-7mL each time. Which is considerably better than before. But, like has been mentioned here, I don't know what this stuff might be like in a Michigan Winter? I have one restaurant that I collect and it titrates at 0-1 always... but I don't get a lot from them. Oh well, I'll keep trying. Thanks again for the reply, obviously, great minds think alike. I'll update as I progress with this tomorrow. Any other thoughts on this will be appreciated. Skip aka behoof 96 Ford F250 7.3L TurboDiesel 1996 Ford XLT 7.3TD Summer B100 / Winter B20-40 |
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Ryan, I forgot to put in the link I had read on using baking soda and so on... here it is >>>> http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/6091024051 1996 Ford XLT 7.3TD Summer B100 / Winter B20-40 |
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