seems like like I read somewhere if you had hard water It made it difficult to wash? Mabe it has somthing with his water since he is still waiting for the cow's

quote:

Originally posted by pril:
mike t, you do not seem to understand. Lisa said "that mist washing will wash out ANY hard to get soap.." What your experience has been is not important.

Tilly if you have something real to say that will help Mike them by all means do it.. but being a mental child that is simply arguing just shows why you are a constant topic of nuisance on here. Follow me around all you want because ignore is all you will get.. this isnt bashlisa.infopop.cc If I say something wrong be a man and say it although I dint believe your head will let you do that..

MikeT ignore Pril.. its just Tilly being a child. He actually could help but he would rather argure than give you advice and if he did it would be wrong just for his sick kicks to see what will happen. Notice how he has nothing to say except contradict me.. he is a sick man..


Yes different water can make it harder but it just takes longer. Sounds like your on to the next batch anyways. Let us know if the problem occurs again.

You are funny Lisa. Anyone who points out the mistakes you make is "Tilly". If you do not agree with testing that has been performed then the testing is wrong. Of course you never post your own tests to support your claims. That is because you do not do any. Woman's intuition I guess, just like most of the advice you are giving people. It would be better if your advice were based on someone's (preferably your) actual testing or experience.

So my good advice for mike t, Don't pay any attention to Lisa unless she can provide proof that what she says is based on something more than Woman's intuition.

Oh and Lisa, when you said "Yes different water can make it harder but it just takes longer." can you show the testing that you are you basing this statement on, or is this just another one of your many guesses.

An "Expert" wo continually gives wrong advice is not an asset.

marvingvx, now that you mention it I may have run out of soft water while the cows were out. As far as trying to wash the lot, I chose to work on a sample instead of the whole batch. I would shake 50/50 water/bio then settle in the sun. For the first 5 cycles nothing changed. Only after I really got on it did it finally separate. So Pril, I do read and understand english. You do not have to repeat Lisa's posts. I was looking for a solution. Lisa gave more than you. All you have done is hijack the thread. so STHU.

This has been an interesting thread.
Just one question. This thread has been going on for two weeks because the biodiesel mike t made was not Bright and clear. However, according to mike t there is nothing scientific about the Bright and Clear test. If that is the case Why worry about it. If it passed all of the scientific tests wouldn't you just use it?
I would not worry about my SVO failing a test that had no scientific backing.

He's back

Miket just ignore.. charles II is nothing more than Pril, Tilly..

keep ignoring

Charles bright and clear is just a guideline. It is too subjective. What is bright and clear to one person may not be to the next. To be a valid test there needs to a way to quantify a result. From the sample, I could tell something was not right but I could not find it. Soap titration came out fine. I was reading in another thread about the changes in the soap due to hard water. Now I am wondering if Ca or Mg base soaps react to soap titration exactly the same as Na or K based soaps do. I think that I may have run out of soft water during the early stages of washing that batch. As I finally found out there was in fact still some soap in the batch. Very difficult to wash out and currently residing in a thin sticky layer between the bio and the water which is still perfectly clear. I know my water has high Ca content not sure about Mg. If what producer says about the make up of Ca soaps, would the titration process need to change? Maybe a different acid or greater amount is needed to break the bonds. I am not enough of a chemist. For now soft water - good hard water - baaaad. As far as using the fuel, i have an 04 F250 with the 6.0. It has to be spot on. Something did not look right, therefore, I started to try to figure it out. I put it all together tonight after reading the emulsion post.

I thank you mike t. so far I have asked two questions on this forum and two people have gone out of their wat to be rude. You are the first person to respond in a civil manner and actually give me an answer. I was starting to think this was a closed shop and newbes need not apply.
This biodiesel seems to be awfully complicated. I am going to have to read up about soap titration right after I learn how to do an oil titration. SVO is not so complicated.

quote:

Originally posted by charles II:

This biodiesel seems to be awfully complicated. I am going to have to read up about soap titration right after I learn how to do an oil titration. SVO is not so complicated.

I think just the opposite. With bio there, no mods needed to the truck. Also with bio there is a much lesser chance of damage to the engine (depending on the engine ). There is a tremendous amount of info on this board. Keep reading and ask questions. Then brew, make some mistakes and learn from them. It is really hard to ruin a batch. When I first started, I thought it was quite easy. Just follow the directions.

miket,
Yes water with Ca and Mg in my experience have not washed the soaps out as well. Calcium soaps are the ones that cause that scum on bath tubs or showers. Na (softened water) soaps do wash out of biodiesel a lot more easily. The divalent nature of Ca++ and Mg++ means 2 fatty acids hang on to each molecule, making it harder to move around.

If the bubbler aint getting soap from those hard to reach places, ever considered getting a compressor hose into your biodiesel/water wash and giving it a real what for?

I never have.. some do and think it works great.

My own personal clear and bright test is that by the time the water from my bubble wash has settled my biodiesel is clear. (I give at least 2 hours). If not clear, after 30 mins max with the bubbler in the wet biodiesel it should have cleared up. Otherwise bring out the soap titration test. After a 5% pre, mist and 48 hours bubbling, I have never had a problem like the one on this post. I guess thats the beauty of BD always keeps ya on your toes
I do a 5% pre after my rxn 2. so all ready deviating from most 'scientifically researched' links or articles. I have been using 8ish L of water on 150L batches after reaction 2 with no problem. Water is scoulding hot. I figured a little less water due to the less glycerine in my mix

mike t I just remembered when I first started washing my fuel and I had a similar problem I was mist washing only to get all the soap out I modified my washing process to wash 1 and 2 I mist washed wash 3 I lightly bubble washed about 3 psi wash 4 I bubble washed violently about 10 psi I have my wodden bubble blocks in a regulated air supply let the bio settle 3 houts before draining each wash and 12 hours after the violent wash #4 then do a soap test and ph test the water before and after I have been known to do a 5th violent bubble wash then dry the fuel don't know if this will help but I do like to tell my stories any way thanks