I have a question vabout winter driving.. I'm using palm oils from a vegan bio restaurant.. Really cool people give for free.. And help promoting a bit to sell soap from glycerin.. The problem is that it has a high pourpoint.. And even in a spring night my bd solidify and the warmish days do melt it back some times not enough..I tried running b80 and this helps a lot but still solidify when a cold wave comes. B50 is no problem.. But defits the point. I was looking into getting tank and filter warmer for a starting..my question is then once the engine is at temp will the bd in tank stay warm?!or do I have run the heaters all-night?
Sounds great.I am still trying to figure it out but at least it gives me an idea..
now that i have been thinking more i have some questions..
for wrapping the tank would it be possible to use copper?
do you also insolate the fuel lines?
do you have to warm the fuel filter, or injectors?
and what i really dont understand is how to rig that the coolent water pumps through to the backThis message has been edited. Last edited by: fotorebelion,
To get the coolant to divert you simply T into the existing coolant lines and set up a ball valve to control the direction of the flow, or more precisely to control the on/off feature of the flow to the aux tank.
Hose on hose is the method I used and had it all wrapped together with the fuel lines using water tank insulating foam collars.
Never used copper, can't solder worth a pit.
If I were to set up another system like this I would definitely go with a twin filter system keeping the B100 one wrapped in soft copper with coolant flowing around it. The switch over time would be greatly decreased. Another thing I would do is to set up two separate valves instead of the one Pollack valve, and get them in as close to the IP as possible; again to minimize switch over time.
But, the system as described works absolutely great; I've run B100 over several winters in -20C (-4F) without a hitch.
Read up on SVO systems to get a clearer idea as that is what this was before I decided to scrap that idea and go with B100 instead. The SVO uses a coolant heater just before the IP, which with B100 is not necessary as long as the fuel is above it's gel point it will work. Also running a return line for the fuel back to the aux tank adds another element of heat returning from the heated fuel helping to keep everything nice and warm.
** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.
Cool thanks! Just a last question.. The ball valve is it electronic? Can you activate disactivate from the cab with a switch or is it a manual lever from under the hood? If it is an electronic system can you recommend me a part number?