I am plugging filters in my '99 5.9 ltr. with a white slimy substance that completely covers the filter. No slimy residue in the filter bowl, only on the filter. I'm running about 15% bd in dino. The residue will not "thaw" off the filter even in my heated garage. I can wipe some of the slime out with my finger and it won't melt on my finger either. Does this sound like gelled fuel or something different? I ran b100 in it all summer (about 5000 mi.) with no problems. I run b50 in my 2.2 ltr isuzu all winter with no problems?
I'm very confused and frustrated and would appreciate any insight as to what the slimy substance might be.

With only a B15 mix I have got to wonder if you have under reacted bd. Is this bd from a different source? Did you make it?

The bd is my own. I just learned of the 3/27 test recently and the fuel I have in the tank did fail. Not badly but still failed. I will take measures to correct this in the next batch. What lead you to come to that conclusion (under-reacted)? i.e. what do you think the "slime" is?

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The residue will not "thaw" off the filter even in my heated garage. I can wipe some of the slime out with my finger and it won't melt on my finger either. Does this sound like gelled fuel or something different?

Polymerised bio???

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I'm very confused and frustrated and would appreciate any insight as to what the slimy substance might be.

It's most likely BD made from animal fat. That's a very common winter problem. The good news is that's it's easy to solve. Put the BD or the BD blend into a poly barrel stored outside. The filter clogging slime will drop to the bottom. Just pump only the clear BD mix off the top to avoid getting the slime in the vehicle fuel system.

I think the slime is caused by under reacted bd. Your 3/27 tests would seem to confirm that. I pretty much experianced that same kind of thing before the 3/27 test came into being. You most likely need to react longer and not turn it off until you get a good in process 3/27 result.

Thank you all for the replies. My fuel is made from pure vegetable oil and titrates exceptionally well. There could be some residual animal fats in there from whatever is fried in it but I think it is minimal.
I don't know what polymerised bio is I'm afraid.
I drained what was left in the filter bowl into a clean soda bottle and today there was about an inch of the slime that had settled out in the bottom. I do plan on processing the next batch until it passes the 3/27 test to at least eliminate that possibility.
What I don't understand is, I can put a sample of bio outside until it gells solid (temps here have been in the low 10's) and then bring it back in and let it warm up and it will go back to clear with no settlings. Tonight I put a sample of 50/50 bio & dino and I will let that warm up when I get home tomorrow and see what that does. Is there any possibility that mixing the bio with the diesel fuel causes something to separate from one fuel or the other? Does petro fuel cause animal fat or triglycerides or something to actually separate from the bio? Or vice/versa. I don't know what could separate from diesel fuel, but I don't know what's in the ultra low sulfur diesel either. Maybe I'll try mixing with kerosene next time.? Thanks again guys.

Jeff

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My fuel is made from pure vegetable oil

Not really, unless nothing has been cooked in it. Once VO has been used for cooking then it's used VO, not pure. Pure VO is unused off the shelf, food grade VO. If anything except fresh potatoes [or other vegetables], has been cooked in the oil then it very likely contains PHO and animal fats, which can cause the slime you're experiencing. The slime could also be from contaminants in the tank washed out by the BD. Do you get the slime if you mix fresh BD with the diesel you're using in the same ratio, and then place a sample outside in the cold or in a freezer?

The ULSD in Michigan at this time of year should be winter grade D1, but it might be D2 with anti gel additives. Unless you know for sure that it's D1, then you could be getting a reaction between your diesel and your biodiesel. Diesel fuel is highly variable both regionally and seasonally.

john - I did mix fresh bio with diesel (50%) and set outside (13*F). I got white settling in the bottom. Letting it thaw to room temp still shows the settling for a couple days and then it will go back to clear. Same results with b100. However, I drained the fuel out of my filter housing when I plugged the last filter and the white stuff is still in the bottom even after a week or more.??

I think I will concentrate on refining my processing methods to make sure I pass the 3/27 test by using more lye (5g/ltr instead of 4) and/or 2 stage method. None of the other engines that are running on this same fuel are having any problems at all. I'm semi convinced that something is settling out of my bio in cold temps rather than clouding or gelling to plug filters. I also think the filters in the 24 valve cummins are finer than the filters in some of the older diesel engines that I and the rest of my family are running and whatever the white stuff is will not go through them. Only the three 24 valve 5.9's in my family plug filters.

As far as D1 or D2 is concerned, that is why I was thinking of trying some kerosene to mix with. To my understanding it is the same as D1 with no lubricity additives. Just one more variable to eliminate.

Sorry it took so long to reply, I've been out of town for the holiday.

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I'm semi convinced that something is settling out of my bio in cold temps rather than clouding or gelling to plug filters.

Un reacted fuel is still my guess.

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Originally posted by jds:
I'm semi convinced that something is settling out of my bio in cold temps rather than clouding or gelling to plug filters. I also think the filters in the 24 valve cummins are finer than the filters in some of the older diesel engines

I hit this same problem on 2 Cummins powered F650's this past summer. On the first batch of biodiesel "B20" blend they both clogged filters. Ford claimed the filters were not changed when scheduled, I have no history to verify or deny this. None of the other 5 non-cummins powered trucks running this fuel had any problems.

Personally I filled up my 6.0 F250 with B100 from the same batch, when it hit a qtr tank I filled up again with B15 at a Pilot to finish my 1000 mile trip. No problems... I didn't see the filters that were replaced but was told they had a jelly like substance in them. My research pointed to a known issue with a coating Ford used on the F650 fuel tanks up to 2005. Anything over a B5 can cause issues according to Ford. The company never put bio blended fuel in those 2 trucks again, so it remains unsolved.

The batch in question was the first test run of a new 250 gallon reactor build. Like your fuel, it was on the edge of pass / fail when I did the 3/27 test. Was close enough I said use it rather and rerun the 100 gallons, I'd ran much worse and got away with it before.

Other things to note are, the fuel was made from a mix of WVO from local suppliers. The B100 was added to a well used 500 gallon storage tank then topped off with about 350 gallons of dino D. Temp was 85 to 90 deg F that week. Since I was out of town I didn't see what kind of diesel was added nor do I know if those trucks in question were filled first or last that day. But I did find it strange that no other trucks showed any sign of problems, only the Cummins ??

I think your filter statement is right on, but still wonder what they picked up to cause this gel issue that other filters pass.

Hope you figure it out.

-Ken

What about soap?
Do you wash you Bio?
Have you done a soap test?

Could it be that you are experiencing cold filtering? The bio made from fats will gel before the other oils, and on cold days, your filter is plugging with the fats and not with the oils? Just a thought.

andyn - I do wash my fuel. I mist wash and then bubble - usually 3 to 4 times or until the soap test looks good. I have even compared ph between tap and wash water. I don't think it is soap but thank you for the input.

hooknline - the same thought has crossed my mind. Some of the oil that I get sometimes has a white layer on the bottom that never really goes to cleat liquid, even in summer time or indoors. It reminds me of bacon grease and probably is animal fats from some of the foods that are cooked in the oil. I was thinking leaving that stuff in the container when I dump oil in the heater to see if that makes a difference. This is just another procedure on the list of many that I need to experiment with. Thanks

depending on your capabilities storage wise and ambient temps, put ALL your oil into a large container. Let it settle for a week or more. Pump the good oil off the top. That will eliminate alot of problems. You will still need to dewater to a degree, but it will be much easier. The opaque stuff at the bottom will be fats, crunchies, and PHO and you can discard that as necc. I use a 300 gallon tote. A couple actually. When I am running low on oil and need fuel, I will play with the opaque stuff to see what variables can change with good or decent results. I have made bio with it, but its a lot of work and a lot of chemicals and a lot of waste. IMHO