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Amount of Anti-gel needed
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From the research I have done, I understand that most (if not all) readily available anti-gel additives meant for diesel do not work on biodiesel, and that when making blends of biodiesel and diesel for winter use, the additive's effectiveness is only on the diesel portion of the blend. If this is true, what is the recommended formula for blending the additives into the biodiesel/diesel blend? Do we just treat the diesel part or do we treat the whole blend? Do we put the additives into the diesel portion and then blend in the biodiesel?
 
Registered: May 02, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I cold filter my fuel blend [which contains no commercial additives] at the ambient temperature. I've not experienced problems running to as low as 30 below with my fuel mixes.

Cold filtering is more effective than any additives.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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John, thanks for sharing your experience.
FYI The info that I researched stated that blending anti-gell additives before cold filtering of a biodiesel/diesel blend will enhance yield and improve cloud point over just cold filtering alone, however, I have no experience yet in this area.
I live in Northern Canada where the temp often gets -30 C and occasionally - 40 C during the winter. For pollution reasons (allergy to diesel included) I would like to use as little dino as possible. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Registered: May 02, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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In my experience a blend of ULSD, biodiesel, petrol, and clean dry canola VO produced exhaust as clean as a new computerized car, according to the techs that tested my late 80s diesel truck. The ULSD I burn comes from Canada and keeps my neighbors warm, their families fed, and paying taxes with a roof over their heads. The canola is grown and harvested with Canadian oil. None of my petrofuel dollars goes to terrorists.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Mr Galt,
I would like to make a slight correction to this.

In the final report of the June 4 and 5 2009 Whitehorse Vehicle Emissions Testing Clinic where you had your truck's emissions tested, on page 18 and 19 that shows the results for the PM10 Concentration measurments test which tests for particulate matter in the exhaust, it says
"Almost all of these two-speed-idle gasoline tests showed less than 1 mg/m3 of PM10, with most being effectively zero...The Japanese Landcruiser on 50% biodeisel was tested as though it was a gasoline vehicle. It measured 35 mg/m3 at curb-idle and 13 mg/m3 at high-idle.
This confirmed that, although all the other emission indicators (smoke opacity and HC and CO concentrations) were very good, a diesel engine always emits much more PM than gasoline engines."


It then goes on to say that they checked 4 newer diesels that had DPF's installed and "Their results confirmed the effectiveness of the DPFs, as all four had no measurable output of PM10 on any of the snap accelerations performed, and all had 0% opacity readings."
quote:
Originally posted by john galt:
In my experience a blend of ULSD, biodiesel, petrol, and clean dry canola VO produced exhaust as clean as a new computerized car, according to the techs that tested my late 80s diesel truck.
 
Registered: November 22, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That is interesting. So it seems that with the older diesels, even though their exhaust shows no smoke they are still pumping out much more particulate pollution than a gasoline engine.
It also shows how well DPF's do their job.

John, is that your Landcruiser on the bottom of page 18? Very nice.
quote:
Originally posted by Martin J:
"Almost all of these two-speed-idle gasoline tests showed less than 1 mg/m3 of PM10, with most being effectively zero...The Japanese Landcruiser on 50% biodeisel was tested as though it was a gasoline vehicle. It measured 35 mg/m3 at curb-idle and 13 mg/m3 at high-idle.

It then goes on to say that they checked 4 newer diesels that had DPF's installed and [b][i]"Their results confirmed the effectiveness of the DPFs, as all four had no measurable output of PM10 on any of the snap accelerations performed, and all had 0% opacity readings."
 
Registered: October 13, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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A bit of good news to kick off 2013.....

If your B100 meets ASTM D6751 Standard and you'd like to use it even when temperatures drop to minus-45°F/°C, mix-in some "MAXIMUM COMPRESSION"™ from Shellbourne Fuels.

It takes 1 ltr: 20 ltrs of B100 (32 fl oz : 5 Imperial or 6 U.S.A. gallons.)

A really economical 'fix' to the gelling challenges.

Imagine avoiding the pump all year around.

Happy New Year!


Distributor of "MAXIMUM COMPRESSION"™ which allows you to use B20 year around.
 
Location: Among the Frozen Chosen, catering Globally. | Registered: December 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Unfortunately I find most additives aren't economical when your work pays for the chemicals and your fuel actual cost is $0.05/L.

I had a guy tell me once his $20/500ml additive would increase my mpg by 10%...LOL... whatever, why would I buy that when for $20 I can make 400L of biodiesel.

Conventional anti-gel additives typically work best when added to dino diesel, then you add that to your biodiesel.

The source of bio (canola in my case) has a pretty low temp gel point on it's own which helps between -5 to -10degC but that doesn't help you at -40.

The only way to know for sure is to blend a small 1L test batch, leave the bottle out overnight in -40 and see what it looks like in the morning. :-) That or use your freezer compartment.


Over 15000L of B100 produced. Burns in 01' F250 7.3L, 06' Jetta TDI, 02' Jetta TDI. Biopro190 owner since Oct2014.
 
Location: Vancouver BC Canada | Registered: September 03, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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