hey now,my name is david,im a diesel inthuesist,and have an 01 f259 7,3.
i am not new to diesels or forums,i am new to putting other things in my tank other than diesel.
i am not looking for a fight from anyone,nor have i done any wmo useage,but i have heard of guys filtering it and blending it with diesel,what do you think of this as an alternative,to wvo or bio...
I have burned a blend of up to 50% filtered used motor oil and diesel in my 92 Dodge Cummins during warm weather over the last several summers, starts fine, runs fine, no more smoke than normal, no loss of power. It also works fine in a friends non-turboed 92 ford 7.3, he starts on one tank with diesel and switches to the blend once the engine has warmed up, he gets from 30-32 MPG on a 50/50 blend with an empty truck and freeway driving. I only have one tank so start and run on the same blend, wish I got that milage but I get the same as when burning straight diesel, no mods or heat added to either vehicle. This blend is too thick to use in cold weather but fine if the temps stay above about 60 deg f.
Used hydraulic oil is even better, a few folks have even posted that they are running up to 100% used automatic transmission fluid.
A couple things to avoid when blending used motor oil - I did tests trying to use acohol as a thinning solvent for a used motor oil blend and found that anything above a few percent, say 2 or 3, will likely cause the used motor oil to gell and drop to the bottom of the blend as clumps, this occured almost instantly with a 50/50 blend of UMO amd methanol, took a couple hours if using ethanol. Others folks have posted that they have had the same thing happen if even a small amount of Diesel Kleen fuel additive was mixed in the blend.
This links to another current discussion about the same subject that has the Diesel Kleen posts.
92 dodge cummins with over 260,000 miles. Running an unheated 50% diesel/50% WVO blend for about the last 75,000 miles when temps above 50 deg f, no modifications or heating except the addition of a throw-away in-line fuel filter (removed during cold weather).
As of 8-01-05 I have been testing a 75% WVO/15% gasahol (90% RUG/10% ethanol)/10% diesel blend. Works fine down to about 65 f then starts rough. Runs ok once engine warms up. Back to a 50/50 diesel blend sence 9-15-05, just to cool now. -- 11-01-05 Modified stock fuel tank internal fuel pickup to have I.D. of 3/8 inch, this eliminated cold start slow idle and bogg on acceleration. Now adding 1 ounce each of acetone and pure gum spirits of turpentine to each 5 gallons of any blend, seems to help keep the fats in solution to a lower temperature --Heated 2nd tank fuel system installed january 2010, now running on a heated blend of 90% veg/5% diesel/5% RUG (no acetone or turpentine, heat replaced these).
thanks tim,i was wondering if anyone would anser,worried about nazi tree huggers,do u have any seddgestions for a set up,i was thinking about filtering it to 3 microns as i collected it.so that i wouldnt halfto go home and punp it fron tank to tank ect,,,
as I collectid it -- That can have some hazards unless you know just what is in it, I have done this from several local farmers and have found antifreeze in most of it, they pour everything they don't want into the same barrel. Antifreeze does not settle out of used oil like water does. The last barrel I got had oil in the top third, antifreeze/oil that looked like oil but would not burn in my drip heater in the center third, and the bottom third was all water.
Because of this problem I gave up collecting it from strangers so only burn the oil I make myself.
I filter my used motor oil through one pass of a 5 micron whole house water filter that has felt seals on the end of the filter cartridge to prevent oil leak-by. The filtered oil will still be coal black as it contains microscopic soot, no amount of home filtering will remove this tiny soot so it will always be black.
ok good to know,water is a definate worry,i have 2 sources 1 a car repair shop,mostley motor oil,a little atf,and a very small amount of brake fluid.
the other one is an unlimited supply,from big rigs,but they du,mp the world in their tanks,motor oil,atf,gear oil,anti frez,and from time to time hydrolic fluid,heck even sometimes gasoline due to some idiot filling up truck with gas instead of diesel..
now if a guy was smart would he be chosey what depth to suck from or just pass altoghther .
also how would i make sure the other source is pure is there a way to remove coolant from oil
ok, so what's the best way to FILTER USED MOTOR OIL??
It seems to have twice the weight of veggie and just SITS on cloth filters....
WHAT'S EVERYONE DOING to filter the crankcase oil? I'm sitting on 250 gallons I got from a local farm........
First, make sure it does not contain antifreeze, let it settle a few days and draw a sample off the bottom to see if you find antifreeze or water. (farmers around here are notorious for dumping antifreeze in with the oil, even after months of settling the bottom half of this stuff won't even burn in my veg drip heaters)
I gave up trying to filter cold lube oil, it needs to be at least 60 deg f or warmer (preferably warmer) or it will take forever to flow through filters, even under pressure. I use a 12 volt DC Shurflo RV water pump to push the oil through a couple 5 micron whole house water filters, let the pressure switch cycle the pump as long as it takes, it will still be black but it is not possible to filter out the black, the apperance is not changed by filtering.
A friend here burns a cold blend of 50/50 diesel and lube oil in his bone-stock non-turboed IDI 93 Ford 7.3 (starts/stops on diesel and switches to the blend once the engine is warm), he mixes the diesel and oil first and then uses the same type RV water pump to push the much thinner blend through the filters, says it works fine that way, haven't tried this myself. Be advised that after about 35,000 miles of burning this blend the truck got harder to start, a set of new cheap $150.00 Ebay injectors cured the problem. This was back when fuel was over $4.00/gallon so he saved WAY more in fuel cost than the cost of the set of injectors. The injectors had about 130,000 miles on them when he started burning the blend so he can't say the blend did them in but it is sure suspect. Truck got harder and harder to start and had intermittent low power and puked out huge amounts of black smoke, the injectors were leaking something terrrible, a couple even dripped diesel under just gravity pressure.
My 92 Dodge Cummins has also been getting harder to start so I think I will try a new set of injectors and see if it helps, unfortunatly the Cummins injectors are a bit more pricy than the Ford.
Have heard that some centrifugal oil filters spin the carbon out of engine oil making it look almost new,,,,,,, and they are cleanable.
getting pretty good results with the 50/50 #2 to crank oil filtering..... it's finally warming up here in the Northwest so everything is MOVING a little faster.....
Is anyone still using WMO? Met a guy burning WMO in his F250 (don't recall which). Didn't seem to have any problems. Saw this on-line: http://www.wvodesigns.com/media/WMOEbook_revA.pdf Mostly newbie stuff but some good parts.
Have >100K miles on WVO in a MB300SD, 98 Dodge 12V, and a Rabbit. Big proponent of centrifuging. Have always used 2 tank but have blended in the MB up to 50%. Started as a "happy mistake" but am avoiding it in the Dodge for now, though same basic IP, right?
I like the idea of blending WMO based on season. Would a THIRD tank be in order with a VegTherm Mega in-line to aid flow/combustion?
High Point, NC
83 MB 300SD (2 tank) - Greasel
98 Dodge 2500 (2 tank) - Golden Fuels
82 Rabbit Truck (2 tank) - my design) - SOLD
Diesel Craft CF process in enclosed shed
BD first batch 9/23/12, still going ..
6-4x10 solar hot water panels and 500 gallon wood-burning water stove
2.8 kW PV grid-tie w/batt b/u commissioned March 2011
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