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Ummm, talking about Biodiesel...
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I've started running kerosene blends to lower my BD gell-point. It hasn't gotten really cold here yet, still hovering jsut above freezing, but I'm keeping about a 25% blend in the tank just in case. That should be good to about 25*F/-4*C, with my highly hydrogenated soy-derived BD. I keep samples of different blend ratios sitting outside as indicators.
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I think it's a matter of the area you're in and how bad the winters are.
To date I don't think there's a "BIODIESEL" additive, but some have found the doing a dino-diesel bend does help, but again you'll have to do freezer tests for you to know what will work with your biodiesel and climate. Hope that helps. Thanks, Andrew Real men love JESUS! |
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I've been doing some searching, and mostly all I come up with are threads recomending a search! The BD that I've made out of some oil I got at a chinese place, turns to a solid block in the FRIDGE! That's only about 38 deg. Even the test batches I made with unused canola oil does the same thing. I find it strange that the raw canola oil stays liquid in the fridge, but the BD I made out of it goes solid at the same temp. I live in SW washington so the winters are pretty mild, but it for sure gets below 40 here. Am I the only one with this prob? Most everything I've read on here says their BD is good down close to freezing. Is it normal to have to add kerosine for temps below about 45? Thats about the temp mine starts to go solid. What do you guys do where it REALLY gets cold, such as in the mid west?
~Jay Tomorrow, today will be yesterday. |
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I find it strange too, In my experience the biodiesel usually has a slightly lower gel point than the feedstock it came from, I believe the most popular anti gel additive in the US is kerosene which I have read is good down to -40 at 50% mix, although that may differ slightly with biodiesel from different feedstocks.
We have just had a couple of nights where it dipped just below freezing -3°C in my part of the UK and my test bottle of biodiesel made from rapeseed oil that I keep on the drive next to my car was still liquid and clear, we are not allowed to use kerosene (or parrafin as it's called over here) as a road fuel so we use diesel or unleaded petrol(RUG) if it gets much colder. Chug ************************* 1989 Mercedes 308D 1994 Citroen ZX 1.9TD ************************* http://www.biofuel-uk.net/ The Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial http://www.biodieselcommunity.org |
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Hi,
This is my first post at this site so perhaps a little background is in order. I have been making biodiesel for about 18 months to run in my 84 ford E350 6.9L in the Mt Shasta area of California. Regarding gel points etc., I have run B100 as low as 28 degrees. Apart from some smoke which decreases as the engine warms up I have had no problems running this vehicle. Below this the engine smokes badly, but will run, albiet roughly. I find it depends on my feedstock which is from a variety of small restaurants in my area. I have started the van as low as 18 degrees with a shot of ether, but the source of oil really matters. There is a biodiesel antigel on the market which I was given as a sample by a fellow biodieseler and I don't know how available it is. It is called Technol 500 for B100 cold flow improver. Call 800 645-4033 for more info or look at http://www.technol.com. I used a little for my diesel heater and it seemed to work ok as low as 18 degrees. I plan on trying the rest in my ford this winter but all I have is a pint. I want to try keeping a tank of B50 in the ford for starting and switch to the B100 tank when the engine is warm. I am also interested in using the 2 stage acid process since my titrations are so high. I find even with careful titrations my reactions are incomplete. I have tried the Journey to Forever Foolproof method, but wa not too pleased with the results. Does anyone have any info on this method. I'll be checking this forum when I can. Till then happy brewing. |
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