canola based bar soap

Most folks know that the oil I get has always been canola, so this will deal only about that. Canola is what is know as a short chain oil, meaning that the molecular chain holding it all together is short, which is also what gives it it's properties that allows for colder weather use. There are also other short chain oils, but like I said I will deal only with canola.

When processing biodiesel from canola and using a KOH caustic the resulting glycerine layer will NOT be suitable for use in making bar soap, however it is probably top of the list for producing liquid soap.

I have always used NaOH as the processing caustic, and this has allowed me to use the glycerine, combined with a binding agent to successfully make bar soap in a recurring and sustainable manner.

Because canola IS a short chain oil the glycerine from it cannot be used all by itself in the production of bar soap, even if processed using NaOH. It will result is a very soft and perhaps gooey-like bar, so a binding agent must be added in order to get firm bars.

Of course one CAN use a bunch of chemicals and/or synthetics to get it done, but I am talking about using natural ingredients, not health damaging ones.

I personally use deodorized lard (pig fat) as the binder. Pig fat alone makes for a snow white, hard as nails bar. which is all fine in and of itself, but we want ti use up the glycerine glut we all are facing, which is what this whole thing started out being in the first place.

Ok, so first thing is to be certain that all the methanol has been removed from the glycerine, then when it cools it will solidify. To turn it into bar soap the right mix of glyc and binding agent must be used for the desired effect.

My recipe is:

2 liters liquified lard
1 1/2 liters liquified glycerine
900 ml liquid ( I use 400ml coconut milk and 500 ml's water)
350gr NaOH

Along with the solid ingredients I also add shavings (approx 2 liters dry) from previous batches.

Melt the shavings into the liquid lard and then slowly add the liquified glyc. Keep at a simmer.
Blend the 350gr NaOH into the liquid mix and allow to sit while making sure the fat/glyc mix is well blended ( there may be some curdling but this is not important)

Whisk the caustic mix into the acid mix and keep whisking for about ten minutes until you get a positive "trace" ( you may get a false trace before hand so be sure the blend is in positive trace before adding scent. I use essential oils - approx 15ml's per batch, however not all at once. I will prepare a small amount in a spray bottle mixed with vodka which is set aside.

Pour the mix into a cooling tray and return a day or so later when it is cooled and can be cut into bars. This is where the vodka/EO comes in. Shake the spray bottle well as the two elements will not want to stay together and then spray the cut bars with the mixture. The alcohol will carry the scent onto and into the bars while it will evaporate fairly quickly. This gives your bars a stronger scent when whomever you give/sell one to sticks it to their nose (which is the first thing they will do).

The cooled bars will most likely have a rough section on top, which would be best if trimmed as it will be more aesthetic that way. This trimming is what can be used in follow up batches as the trimmings mentioned in the recipe. No waste.

Hope this is helpful. Those who have The Guide will already know most of this, but this may contain a few additional details. And then there is Lather! that is offered with The guide as an accompaniment.

** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.

Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: December 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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