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Is this sensitive enough to use with wash BD to determine if all the soap is removed? or atleast to certian level. this might provide a more consistant check for soap in washed BD instead washing until the water is clear.

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Report This Post
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I use 0.5g for glycerine, 5g for unwashed bd, and 30-100g for washed bd. I started out using 100 then ended up using 30g. I usually bubblewash till the pH is close to the tap water's pH and then test for soap. I have been experimenting with bd washed by the bubblewash method and by treating with Magnesol and then comparing the two. I have found that there is still soap in the bd after a bubblewash, but with Magnesol, I end up with no soap.
 
Location: Florida | Registered: 30 June 2005Report This Post
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have you tried a harsher wash after bubbling? Does the water end up clear?

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Report This Post
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I start out cutting back on the air (very little amount of bubbles) so that I don't get an emulsion. I do this for about 1-2 hrs. I separate the wash water, test it's pH, and bubble wash again with hot tap. If I do have an emulsion, then I do this a few times and the hot tap seems to unemulsify the bd/water. Once I don't get an emulsion, I go full flow with the air which is pretty violent for about 24 hrs. I keep doing this till the pH is close to the original pH or close to the previous pH of the last wash, usually 2-3 more washes. I never end up with clear wash. It is usually slightly cloudy. I have sent my samples out for ASTM testing and it comes back within their standards, so I must be doing something right.
 
Location: Florida | Registered: 30 June 2005Report This Post
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thanks,
that was what I was heading towards, but looking for a testing method that I could preform. My wash does get clear either. I'm talking 6-10 washes sometimes. Last night I took a sample from the last batch to dry inside. it took no time to dry and then I added hot water to see if the water would cloud...it didn't but the wash in the large tank was still cloudy after 2 more washes.. At the moment I'm drying the large batch..
thanks for the info

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Report This Post
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dkenny

Have you given any thought to Tilly's contribution on this subject. He suggested that washing was sufficient when the soap content was reduced to the point where it would not gel on cooling. His test for soap content would therefore be to put a sample in the fridge. You should always do that anyway in order to test for water content and cloud point.
 
Location: Australia | Registered: 17 July 2001Report This Post
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neutral,
until recently..no the weather has been warm enough that clouding/gelling were not an issue.

BUT that is changing on me fast!!

I was just wondering if this soap test would allow me to say the BD is washed enough, dry it, then test for cloudy/gel points.

typically I don't heat to dry the BD just spray. with the cooler weather I'm going to have to start heat the BD to dry it

thanks

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Report This Post
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This idea of Tilly's is new and there is no experience to rely on. All one can do is think about the science and work from there. Here are the facts about what you may see on cooling a sample:

If there is too much water in the fuel it will go hazy.

If the cloud point is too high fine crystals will be observed swirling around.

If the soap content is too high a gel will form.

Some skill would be required. The word "gel" is often used by people when they are referring to the whole body of the fuel starting to solidify. It is important to distinguish between this and soap gel. Soap gel is wobbly. Solidifying fuel is viscous.

For fuel to be good for purpose none of this should be seen at the lowest temperature of use.

Ideally the first thing seen on cooling will be the cloud point. There will be no water haze and on further cooling the fuel will become viscous and solidify. Try it out.

Finding the cloud point is not that easy. Do a rough test first so you know the temperature range to look at. Then do a careful test, cooling slowly. The only way I know to do this is to use an ice bath. For very low cloud point fuel you may need an ice-salt bath.
 
Location: Australia | Registered: 17 July 2001Report This Post
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neutral,
as usual your information is priceless...Smile
I have been trying just what you have described. it looks like misting washing for 24 hrs continuous, is enough washing. this is based on taking samples and heating until dry and waiting over night. lately the nights have been in mid 30's F, or 1-4C depending on your location. even thought the wash water is not clear. not even as clear as in the summer, the dried BD stayed clear overnight. yeh SmileSmile
so maybe I have been overwashing.. this would be good news because I'm trying to increase production to help my oil supplier..

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: 15 December 2004Report This Post
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