I have a 1982 mazda b2200 that runs great and only has 164k on it. Problem is, the frame is rusted out. I am considering just dropping the engine/tranny into another truck. Does anyone know what other types of makes or models this engine would fit?

Kyle: sad to say the B2200 diesel won't even fit the B2000 gasoline version of the truck. They have different bulkheads, and take a lot of modification to make the larger diesel bellhousing fit.
However, don't despair. The same vintage Ford Rangers used the same engine, with different accessories and a different transmission, but have no problem with room.
I've got one of each (Mazda and Ford). I'd love to find another B2200 engine to put in my TR7. They're great engines, but orphans, completely lacking parts support from Mazda or Ford. They were license-built by Mazda (in a Mistubischi plant factory) to Perkins' specs, being a metric-version of their 4.135 if I recall correctly. Some parts will interchange, but not the fuel injection system bits. The 4.135 was not sold in the US, so parts aren't even available from Perkins here, and won't be listed as Mazda or Ford anyway.
Mine has 204,000 miles to date. The 5-speed transmissions are known for failing the input bearing, which can be replaced without disassembling the tranny.

Thanks for all the great info, john!!

quote:

Originally posted by johno:
Kyle: sad to say the B2200 diesel won't even fit the B2000 gasoline version of the truck. They have different bulkheads, and take a lot of modification to make the larger diesel bellhousing fit.
However, don't despair. The same vintage Ford Rangers used the same engine, with different accessories and a different transmission, but have no problem with room.
I've got one of each (Mazda and Ford). I'd love to find another B2200 engine to put in my TR7. They're great engines, but orphans, completely lacking parts support from Mazda or Ford. They were license-built by Mazda (in a Mistubischi plant factory) to Perkins' specs, being a metric-version of their 4.135 if I recall correctly. Some parts will interchange, but not the fuel injection system bits. The 4.135 was not sold in the US, so parts aren't even available from Perkins here, and won't be listed as Mazda or Ford anyway.
Mine has 204,000 miles to date. The 5-speed transmissions are known for failing the input bearing, which can be replaced without disassembling the tranny.

(johno) I am a new owner of a 84 Mazda B2200 Diesel. And I was wondering what if any tranny info you can give me for that truck. As far as gear ratios, or wher to get a new/used/rebuild one, or what part number Mazda designates to that transmission. i would greatly appreciate this information. Due to the fact that it is greatly neded because my 5 speed has been abused by the previous owner, to the point that the counter shaft bearing is shot. I have dropped the tranny and pulled the front seal and all the BB's from the countershaft bearing fell out and they're all ground/chewed up along with the outer race. The inner race is nowhere to be found. Please help me someone.
Thanks, 84mazdaB2200

My understanding gleaned from this site is that the tranny is the standard 4-speed with a 5th speed borrowed from the RX-7.

Hey guys,
After a few long frustrating days I started searching all over for help, including the web, and finally came across this thread. This seems like a preaty neat site. Anyway, let me start by saying I am the third owner of an 82' mazda b2200 diesel and apparently the only one trying to repair it correctly. It has 310,000 miles on it and a handfull of problems that can be fixed, I believe, with a little effort. I see Johno has stated that the input bearing fails on the 5 speed tranny. Is this what may cause 5th gear to not stay ingaged? I may have a different problem but someone has told me it might be the syncronizer. I have no clue about transmissions and thought maybe this problem is what you have incountered. Besides this inconvenence of holding in 5th it is not much consern as an immediate fix. What concerns me is wiring. I can't seem to find color codes or diagrams anywhere for this. Many books that clam to be for the b2200 diesel tend to only show the parts of it which are similar to the b2000 gas model. The original owner was a bit of a slacker to put it nicely. I have pulled out about a mile of unneccessary wire. For every 4 or 5 lines run for power only one would reach the battery or fuse box. Others would be tied in by slicing a line about an inch and the other's tips would be threaded between plastic an wire then wrapped and taped. Many lines not even wrapped in electrical tape but duct tape. Also, I found many lines including on the factory wiring harness spliced up to 3 times within 6-10 inches with tons of slack left. Almost no butt connectors used. I spent 2 days so far tearing out and redoing so many connections, amazed I haven't had problems for the past 2 years. Anyway I have been rambling far too long so I will cut strait to the chase... There is still many wires, on the factory harness, that are not connected and I can't seem to get rid of a short that seems to be slowly spreading across the vehicle like a virus. I have found a few problems by investigation alone but I am at a standstill without a wire color guide or even some pictures. I will spend the next few days working on it but without help I am lost. I can snap some pictures in the morning and post them for you. Sorry for being so long winded. Thanks for any help and your time.
James

I'll try to scan a copy of the wiring diagram for you. It may take a few days though. Do you have any specific questions about some specific wires I might be able to answer in the mean time?

5th gear isn't affected by a failing input bearing, but might be affected by a failing output bearing. The tailshaft housing has a weak support bearing that might misalign the shaft if it wears out. The drive shaft would be loose and leaking oil, if the bearing is worn. The Mazda Diesel boards haven't mentioned it that I recall, so it's a guess on my part. Does the tranny make noise in any particular gears?

All of the bearings are readily available at a good bearing supply. The numbers are stamped on the bearing races, once they're removed. Some specialized tools are needed to dismantle the tranny inner-parts, so that step is best left to a transmission shop, but you can remove the tranny yourself.

Thanks for the quick reply. The only gear that makes noise is 5th and this is only because I am holding it in with pretty good force. It is only a slight wine that you would hear if you push the shifter into gear as hard as you can in any gear. Other than popping out if you don't hold it, the gear works fine. As far as the wiring goes I definitely noticed something that isolates the problem to the heating fuse and wiring. I have some pictures to help. In the first picture is 2 plugs and a ground at the front drivers side in the engine bay.

As I am pointing to in the second picture these run to the fuse panel on the cooler fuse... I am guessing for some reason the factory wire harness for this has 2 more plugs for insertion that wrap completely around the engine bay to come full circle at the firewall where they come out of the cab. This is really no concern to me because I do not have an A/C unit under the hood anyway and do not believe there is any problem with these not attached. I am just curious as to if my suspicions are correct. The next picture shows the full view of the fuse panel.



What is the head cleaner fuse at bottom right? I have never even had prongs there. What I actually want you to look at in this picture is the heater fuse spot. I noticed that one end of the fuse would get power and the other didn't so I changed the fuse. I removed it because when it didn't blow the fuse immediately, the fan for the A/C would blow regardless of being turned off or unplugged from the control panel on the dash. Although when the panel is plugged in it can make it increase speed. On off is like on high and on high is like its high on something, tornado winds. Anyway, the next picture shows the dash in this area.


Here you can see a cut red line which I have no clue about. You can't see it in the picture but there is a green stripe on it. That is like the 3rd or 4th red with green stripe wire I have come across. You also see the blue plug with the 4 inserts into it. I strongly believe this is for the clock because it fits perfectly into its back snapping in and all, but the clock only has 3 prongs and is also broken so I am not certain of this. Also, this blue line with the black stripe you see was for some reason plugged into the one spot on the blue plug which was not being used by the clock. This seems very unlikely to be right because the only way it would all fit together in the clock and the blue wire plugged in would be that the wire would have to be striped and with no tip attached stuck into the hole so it can bend around and allow the plug itself to sit flush against the clock. The only thing is when the fuse for the heater is inserted and not blown, plugging this in here brings all my dash components back to life. Could this just need to be grounded? Maybe the red wire too? I don't understand why the fan is receiving constant power. If there are any other angle shots or areas you would like to see a picture of let me know. Thanks again.
James

This message has been edited. Last edited by: cajunwrangler,

The 5th gear problem sounds like a worn middle bearing, allowing the shaft to move foward enough to prevent full engagement by the synchronizer. A similar problem occurs with 1st gear, but that's when the front bearing wears, allowing the input shaft to move forward and prevent full engagement. I know of no remedy that can be done with the tranny in the vehicle, sorry to say, but the offending bearing is likely to be one that can be removed without special transmission tools. It's still a job best left to an experienced mechanic, and it's up to you to decide if the truck is worth the hassle and expense. 300,000 miles is past the average lifespan of these engines. I plan to keep mine running long past that point, but I'm sure mine is close to needing a rebuild. It needs done soon, because parts are getting hard to find. If the rest of your truck is in good shape, then you'll probably want to keep it running, at a guess.
The fuze block looks badly corroded. The cover may be from a different vehicle. Mine has one vacant fuze position, too. I don't recall "head cleaner" printed on mine, but I'll check. The "cooler" label looks familiar.
The color code for the clock wires are WB, GL and RG. It may also have a ground. I don't recognize the blue plug, but I don't recall looking at the back of my clock. That's probably what it is for.
The two plugs look like the ones that power the solenoid valve that controls the flap in the air intake. There would be a mating pair of plugs clipped to the side of the air cleaner bracket next to the fuel filter. Mine works fine, but I've read of others that quite working so got bypassed. Mine also has a few unused plugs up by the radiator support.
RG wires are for tail and dash lights. They should have no power unless the switch is on.
Do you have a/c? You mention not having it, but also mention "the fan for the A/C would blow...".
I'll study mine a bit more and get back to you.
Cheers,
JohnO

There seems to have been an A/C at one point, but the compressor has been removed. There is still a fan for the vents and heater. Speaking of heater, the temp. gauge barely moves at all and the truck seems to never get hot enough to blow heat. Is this normal? I have just recently noticed that the top slide lever can be pulled outward. Is this how to engage the heater? Even so it seems the temp. would not rise enough to produce heat. I know diesel engines run cooler but this is a bit much. I am thinking there is something wrong with the gauge perhaps, but even so, no heat. On to the important stuff. I have gone back to testing the fuse panel on the heater spot and have found it hard to come across power on one side again. I don't move the fuse but the tester tip to different parts of the same side and some spots show power. I am good at common sense but electricity seems to get the best of me. Also, looking at the wire connecting to that side lead on the fuse is blue w/black stripe. This is the same as the wire that goes to the back of that clock plug. I can't get the fuse to come on anymore though. I was wrong earlier in saying that the fuses were being blown, they are simply not working. When they did work and the fan stayed on I could plug the blue wire in the ground spot on that blue plug for the clock and tah duh the dash lights and all are back on. If I plug the blue wire to the power slot in the plug the fan comes on also unable to be turned off by the fan speed knob. It seems every time I recheck I am getting different results. I just went back in the middle of writing and I found constant power from the fuse on both sides but no reaction inside. I tried starting the truck and the starter started clicking. Wouldn't turn over so I did the tap on it and it went to a constant fast clicking without trying to turn over the motor. I then tried to remove our strange heater fuse and start but no change in the starter, although the dash lights came on dim an slightly flickering. This is without our blue wire plugged, clock, or fan control. I have had the same things unplugged/plugged many times with never this result. Do you think the starter could be causing some of these problems besides it seeming to be shot now and not turning over? Also, what are those wire colors you gave me? I don't know the color abbreviations. On the back of the blue plug in the picture I posted, the bottom right slot is the one the blue wire was plugged into is a solid green wire going in. The bottom left slot is the one I am getting power from and it is white w/black stripe. The top left has 2 solid black wires run to it and the top right has 2 red w/green stripe wires run to it. Sorry for dragging you along with all of this and thanks again for all your help.

Pulling out the top slide lever shuts the outside air inlet to the heater.
Your description of low temperature is unusual, and may indicate a bad thermostat.
The two big Phillips screws in the middle of the fuse block hold it to the fender. Disconnect the battery before dismounting the fuse panel for the first time, in case a wire comes loose and drops into contact with something grounded. You'll be able to see how things are supposed to be connected once you can look underneath. Mine was corroded in spots, but I was able to clean it up so it works ok now. Hopefully you can too.

My fuse box is already disconnected. It seems as everything is in decent shape. Most of the corrosion looks like it is on the casing not on the metal. I will clean it anyway. I have found a picture of the wiring on a b2000 and it seems the interior is similar in wiring. I will be working for a few more hours tonight and will post any new results before retiring for the night. Thanks again.

The rain has stopped any progress for tonight. I will be fully removing the dash and tracing lines with the diagram from the B2000 in the morning and I am optimistic about the outcome. There has to be an extra power wire somewhere that is somehow feeding power with seemingly random timing. I now also have to take apart my starter and see if I can clean it and get it going again as well. I know it seems I should just scrap the truck with the high miles and all but before this short hit it has been driving like a champ. On top of it all I love working on it. I don't see this motor quiting any time soon. It does need a few minor things like a new oil cap and dipstick. Also, it could use a few new gaskets, but nothing leaks to much at all. How many MPG do you get? I avg. between 40-45 and thats usually not holding 5th in and cruising at 55-60 in 4th gear. This truck need a little attention due to neglect by previous owners but soon it will be a tank and I would bet it will go another 75k at least. Here are the diagrams I have, if yours match don't waist your time.


Sorry they didn't come out legable.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: cajunwrangler,

Mine gets something like 35 mpg, which is what is expected for these trucks. If you're getting over 40, then I suspect your odometer is indicating too high, or your tires are smaller than stock, unless your driving consists of steady cruising at about 45mph, without starting or stopping. It's not uncommon for the rear end to have been swapped in an attempt to increase acceleration, which will throw off indicated mileage and speed. There's also the possibility the transmission has been tweaked.
The diesel speedo unit is unique, both in gear ratio, and having a speed switch that connects to the glow plug timing circuit. I've read about gasser speedo's being swapped for failed diesel speedos, but the glow plug circuit doesn't work right without some re-wiring, and even then loses some function.
The engine block has a temperature sensor for the glow plug circuit. It switchs the glow plug to a "warm" setting (cycling on and off quickly) after a 6-second heat cycle (at the end of which the dash light goes off). Below 30 degC the glow plugs stay on at this low level at speeds below about 5mph. Without the speed sensor the glow plugs stay on at any speed until the engine reaches 30C. This can burn out glow plugs very quickly.
My speedo and odometer are off about 5mph, indicating 70 when actually doing 65. I've heard of some being less accurate.
Your diagrams look more complete than mine, although I havn't figured a way to enlarge them. BTW, I'm on 44k dial-up, so this page takes about 6 minutes to download due to the pictures.
I, too, enjoy the way this little truck drives. The power is adequate. The engine has the most satisfactory agrarian sound. Mileage is better than the later turbo-diesel. The only parts I haven't found a source for are rubber seals and gaskets around doors, windows, shifter, etc.
More anon,
JohnO

sorry about the large files. let me try and make a link to the pictures instead.

http://www.shutterfly.com/view/pictures.jsp

I believe the truck is pretty much stock. The tires are very bald so somewhat smaller but I think they are factory size. Can get you the actual specs in the morning. The truck was originally owned by an old black man for about 270k of the miles. The only mods he did seem to be running lights and taking them off and putting more and so on making a rat nest of wires instead of using the same ones. He removed the A/C compressor for some reason. He installed a very annoying reverse buzzer unless that came stock, I don't know. The only other thing that doesn't seem stock is some toolboxes on either side of the bed. As far as MPG, I estimate by the tank... I go about 450 mile to the tank and never see the fuel light. My buddy assures me it works and that the needle has to drop below the empty mark before it comes on. I never run it too long into touching empty. So it is really a guess. I know the speedometer is on at lower speeds like 35mph due to the radar signs the cops put on the roads down here maybe after getting up to higher speeds it gets a little off, I'm not certain. When I get up and running again I will do an accurate measure by going on a trip with a full tank and refilling after 100 miles. Also, I'm not sure of your landscape there but here is pretty much flat besides on ramps.

450 miles is only 11 gallons at 40mpg. That's excellant if the odometer is accurate. That would give you 600 miles before the low fuel light comes on at 15 gallons. Note that it only gives you another gallon or so, and the pickup is near the front of the tank, so it'll suck air going uphill (if you've got any around there). I know that if it comes on before I leave work, the truck won't quite get back home before running out of fuel (32 miles from work to home, with no gas stations in between). It's pretty flat here, but I do have a small hill on the way to work.

I shoveled the snow off the hood this morning and was surprised to see my fuze cover is identical to yours. My tires are 225/80-R14's. I couldn't quite bring myself to get a light and look under the dash for the blue plug. It's a bit awkward when I'm bundled up against the cold, especially a couple hours before the sun comes up. I'll look this weekend during daylight.
Cheers,
JohnO

Bad weather there too eh? Tornado warnings and thunderstorms predicted all day today here. Its not raining yet but its windy as hell. Don't worry about the wire too much it seems I have a lot of tracing to do with the harness so if it takes a few days its no big deal. I have another vehicle anyway, its just that it only gets about 8-10 MPG. It is in one of the new pictures I took with the diesel this morning. There is a picture of the back of the clock next to the plug and a digital clock I cut out. Is the digital factory too? It has a factory plug as well but all the wires were cut to it and it was attached by bent coat hanger wire so I removed it. My tire size is different than yours, P205/70 R15. Also, I had no idea it was a 15 gallon tank. I thought it was a 13 gal. I still don't know about 600 miles though. The fuel light may not be on at 450mi, but the needle is getting pretty low at this point. I'm too nervous to wait for a light. I would only imagine going 500 maybe 525 till completely empty. Who knows maybe with all the electrical problems lately the light would have been coming on by that point. Anyway, I need to quit chatting and get back to work before the rain comes. Here is the link again.
http://www.shutterfly.com/view/pictures.jsp

Ahh the rain is here. Even sitting inside the truck has become too dark to see what I'm doing. Some advice to you if you haven't experienced it already, don't attempt to fully remove the dashboard. It is held on by some hard to deal with bolts, a few screws, and a great amounts of black magic. I removed all the obvious bolts and screws on the top, sides, bottom, and glove box. The last one that looks to be holding it at the bottom right corner won't budge and has stripped. Even if that one was removed though, the dash still feels like its attached to something. I removed a ton of screws that might hold it to anything but still it feels as more is holding it than that one bolt. The wiring is all cut from the zip tie spots and the air vents are disconnected. I finally gave up trying to remove it and have been working inside of it, although I can't see behind the ashtray spot on to the right. I have been taking every piece of tape off of the harness and checking/cleaning all connections. I found a second mysterious blue wire in the same area as the other one. This one has no tip, it is just cut like the red one and is the same length as the red one. It also traces back and connects in the harness plug with the other blue w/black striped wire. I found a few knobs for controls in the glove box while removing the bolts. When you get a chance and if you have a digital camera, could you take a shot of your dash so I can see all the controls that should be there. Again no rush, I am taking my time cleaning everything and assuring secure connections so I won't have to ever do this again. Thanks again JohnO, hopefully I will be able to lend you a hand in the future as well.

I torched the nut and finally got the dash out. There is another two wires that are cut on the wiring harness coming out from the passenger floorboard.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dc20b3127cceb50a...000025102AcM2rFozZsp
This is the only plug like this in the truck that I have found. All of these wires in the picture are for the blower, but I don't see where these would connect. These wires also run over to the main wire harness. Any idea why the factory would run two wires separate from the rest? Where would I need to go to find a legend for reading wire colors and electrical symbols?