BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS





Sponsors    Biodiesel and SVO Forums Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  Diesel vehicles and other diesel equipment  Hop To Forums  Miscellaneous vehicles and engines    Just purchased '86 Jeep Cherokee Diesel...need advice...
Page 1 2 3 4 5 

Moderators: Shaun, The Trouts
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Just purchased '86 Jeep Cherokee Diesel...need advice...
 Login/Join
 
Member
posted Hide Post
Ah, the fun continues. So, I tried to start her up today to look further into the injector issue and...no go. Tried jumping her...no help. And now it seems I am leaking both oil and coolant...not all the time, just when I try to turn over the engine (and not a lot, just a light dripping that ceases after a minute or so). So, things just seem to get worse and worse. Yikes! :^>

To answer your other questions, I got all of the parts for the rebuild from winnebegoparts, including the following:

COMPLETE GASKET SET
ROD BEARING
MAIN BEARING
RINGS
NEW OIL PUMP
A SET OF SLEEVES AND PISTON SET

I don't know what else the mechanic used in the rebuild, though I know he reused a lot of the hoses (a few of which subsequently burst and cracked) along with many if not all of the bolts and other fasteners. And that's assuming he truly did use all of the new parts I bought him.

I'm going to give the IP place a call tomorrow and see about having it towed to them. I definitely think something is up on the injection side (aside from the distinct possibility that the gasket is blown and the had warped).
 
Location: Pasadena, CA | Registered: May 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
ventureforth:

you dont mention where the oil leaks from ? or where the coolant leaks from - this is most important - especially if occurs when cranking engine -

if I can imagine - is from the rocker cover ( valve cover ) not being tightened
make sure when you do secure it - all matting surfaces are clean - including gasket

sounds perhaps like you have air in the injection system - this will cause a non start
do you know how to bleed an injection system ?

you can also email me direct with symptoms - as I wonder if we are getting a bit carried away on a biodiesel board

the coolant leaking from cranking engine is a huge concern - investigate this - where does it leak from - this will tell you much - and how is the oil in the sump - is it milky

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
fastinating reading keep it here
I had one of these jeeps 15 years ago


Larry Williams
35,000 miles and counting on a 1997 3500 6.5 td with home made svo conversion
 
Location: Northwestern Kansas | Registered: April 28, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hi,

dear folks, great post, just bough a cherokee diesel 2.1 5 speed. 269 000 miles
seems to run good.

It does not seem to get hot so may be a thermostat problem.

after glow plug it fires immediately and then dies after a couple of turns. I have to start 3 or 4 times and then it runs rough with a lot of blue smoke.
I think it has air bubbles in th epump injection lines.
After a couple of minutes it runs very smooth. No strange noises. From that moment it starts immediately.
I have a 240d and 300D and a powerstroke but no experience with this Bosch VE IP.
Any body knows something about air getting in the pump ?

The instrument cluster has some odd things going on.
the tachometer jumps a lot between the 2000 and 300 rpm. The oil pressure does not drop to 0 when I turn the engine of and it seems to jump a little bit. bad sensor , wiring , gauge.
please let me know your experiences / thoughts.

Thanks a lot.


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hallo joeblack5

Good for you - the VE IP will probably have to be rebuilt - especially if ULSD has been run on this machine for a while - the use of hydrogen to remove the sulfur dries the rubber gasket - one possible way air can get into the injection system - - you have plenty of miles on this - so you may be getting some issues coming up that should have immediate peeks into - the oil system is of most concern - these are known to get clogged up somewhere in the turbo line and suck the oil into the intake I think ( I have not driven mine in very long as I must break down / rebuild ) - your blue smoke could be as simple as a fuel filter replacement - or ......... - what does the blue smoke smell like ?
Where are you located / continent ? How much did you pay for this machine ?- Please to report to us on this site with your experiences - we all are sure to learn from you

best of luck
cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
hallo again joeblack :

and of course feel free to talk openly about your Niva diesel - Have been interested in the Niva for some time - is that a factory engine or a swap

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



Member
posted Hide Post
Hello Metric,

I do not know how long it has been run on ULSD.
The cold start works good, I mean there is not cranking one or more ignitions take place immediately after I turn the key. So I hope that the compression is good will test that in close future. The turbo has been rebuild not long ago and the boost pressure on the dash gauge is he 8 at 2500 RPM. When I have it warmed up it seems to be able to pull of 10.
Is this clogged oil turbo line the return line?
The smoke smells like diesel.
I am located in Pennsylvania USA
Car is second owner from CT, paid $2900

The jeep factory manual does not explain a small pipe with barb coming out of the side of the fuel filter ( square box close to brake booster)
No hose is connected.

I hope to stay away from IP rebuild a while.
Is this one specific gasket or do you mean all gaskets?
Do you think adding a check valve to the diesel inlet would help keeping positive pressure?


Either way it is comforting to know that other people are here to share the concerns with.

Are the erratic dash gauges. tachometer / oil pressure and low temperature common for these jeeps?

Thanks again.


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hi Metric,

Yeah the niva, I love the design of that car.
It was one of the factory prototypes ( 1987) to get past the road worthy tests in the Netherlands.
I since moved to the USA (1993) but kept the carin storage.
It has the peugeot 1.9 diesel .no turbo.
I need to transport it to the USA.
Did a lot of off roading in Europe, nothing extreme like you see in the 4x4 magazines. It has an mazing drive train, may be a the front differential ( aluminum) could be stronger but then every thing is easily rebuild by the average mechanic
I had a gas NIVA earlier and it did not handle deep muddy water very well. (Starter and alternator to low) The diesel is very good but should have a turbo and some more noise insulation. Top speed about 120Km/h at flat road
12 Km/liter at 80 - 90 km/h

Thanks again


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hallo joeblack5:

feel free to email me at MachineAge9@gmail.com
I have the INJ.D Renault Manual - can put on disc for you if you need

try running some bio diesel ( 75% would be best - not sure if you can get over b20 in your area ) this will plump the rubber back - but will also start to eat it up - this trick will work for 9 months to a year

not sure on the whole turbo story - will seek around in my stored emails as to where I got this info - came from an owner in Europe

Fuel Filter - the barb ( POINTS DOWN ) on right side - back of filter - 1 o'clock position - is fuel inlet
barb on left side 10 o'clock - fuel outlet - is one of these barbs you speak of ?

i will also seek some of the other places I get my info from other J8S Cherokee owners here and pass those along as well

The Niva - they are or were sold out of one province in Canada - have always liked the style - small-ish SUV type - the front end is styled heavily from the early Ford f-150 pickup
I hear they are quite capable machines - a diesel moteur - excellent - do you think on turbo for that 1.9- should not be too difficult to engineer that with existing stuff out of europe - I mey be working in UK for 3 years starting next fall - I will be seeking many diesel parts for all my diesels here

good price I think for a operating J8S cherokee
you have experience with diesel - you know of course the french engineer different than the germans - so dont expect the same nuance

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hello Metric,

It is a 3 to 4 MM barb on the top left side of the filter housing. There is also on top a sort of black plug with + . I assume it is a air vent plug?
That IP manual would be real cool.
Does your car need anything?

Later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
hallo joeblack5:

i will have a look at my fuel filter - i purchased my truck with a bottom end "tick"
so i have not operated truck in long time - waiting for the best moment to pull engine and break down- looking to secure a set of pistons/sleeves just in case- parts can be had here on our side of pond - but very costly - parts are cheaper in Europe - this engine is more plentiful there

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
hallo again joeblack5:

this barb you speak of at 11 o'clock back of filter housing is for bleeding - best filter( Brand ) for these here is Baldwin- same as the late 80's Chevy 6.2/ 6.5 L- a truck ( Semi /tractor ) parts dealer may be best bet to get these - easy to change out - but they drain so have a suitable drip pan ready - are all of your rubber return lines in good shape/ or dry - and how are they attached -

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



Member
posted Hide Post
hello metric,

Thank you for the help. I am going to add an electric fuel pump before the fuel filter so that i can circulate the fuel and flush potential air out of the system.
The car is very fast compared to my MB 240D manual.
The Jeep does not smoke under load so I believe the engine is pretty sound. I had a slight knock but was able to locate it to the vacuum pump.(pull vacuum line and knock disappears)

So this weird start is puzzling me . Starts at first turn but does not keep running when I let go of the key. have to start several times before it keeps running and then it seems to run rough. Probably would be best topull the injectors and see what I have and do a compression test at the same time.

later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
hallo joeblack5:

Sure - the J8S is going to faster than the 240D manual TANK - is lighter and turbo'd

First I would look at the simple stuff -

Fuel Filter first
Air filter - if oily - blow by -
bleed fuel system - then ...
check your cold start thermostat capsule- or the fuel shut off solenoid
Former is related to thermostat/coolant - latter is electric and with ignition switch - may be loose /a short - dunno for sure but these are 22 year in service now

your injection system will be pressurized - and these systems are pretty easy to bleed - an electric fuel pump before the filter may not be needed - as bleed at the box - then if needed crack each hard pipe at the injector to check for air - dont rule out a new fuel filter - if truck has been sitting for a while / parked - sitting with cheap diesel - remember 22 years of same fuel tank - maybe crud in the bottom of tank - hard to say - i always go to easy first before I spy the harder stuff

By the way - boost pressure specs 0.6 bar +/- 0.025 @ 2500 RPM = 8.7 +/- 0.3 psi

have you checked your coolant level? do you know how to burb these systems ? very important to know about this - do you know your maintenance on this vehicle - Am sure it was properly looked on over the years in order to reach 300,000 km
cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hello metric,

I installed a pressure gauge after the fuel filter and it pulls about -2 to -3 psi.

Yes you are right, a lot fo things can go out in 22 yrs . The former owner seemed to be good about maintenance. A new fuel filter came with the car and next oil change is written on the window.

I installed an electric fuel pump before the filter and the pressure gaufe gives now 6 psi after the filter. I uses a clear tugothane hose from the pump to the filter and a lot of air bubbles come by. Drove about 10 miles and the hose is now clear. Tomorrow I will see how it starts.

Do you have any data about the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?
This car has the oil filter mounted under the air filter it has an additional oil cooler. The oil pressure sensor is mounted on this assembly.
A second wire is hanging loose.
When I pull the wire of the pressure sensor the gauge reads full scale or zero ( I forgot already) Do you happen to know the resitances at what oil pressure?

It seems that the boost valve is tuck full open, I can not move it by hand. On the iside gauge it get 8-9 at 2300RPM ,it goes up to 10 at higher PPM. I am not sure what is stuck. I will drive carefully and not allow it above 7.5.

There is coolant in the expand tank and the radiator is full. i replaced the seal in expand tank but there is a small crack in the top of the tank where the screw attaches it to the mount. It seems to get hot , but the gauge reads low. The radiator does not get very warm but it is cold here and my drives are not further then 10 miles each time.
I noticed a small hose from the top of the thermostat housing going back to the expand tank.It seem that the nipple for this hose is glued or threaded in the thermostat housing??
It looks like it could be made out of one piece
but then it does not look to solid either, French engineering?? or strange repair job??

Thanks for the help.
Later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Oh yeah, That cold start capsule does not seem to work.
The water hoses get hot but the position of the plunger / arm / wire does not seem to change.
It seems to be stuck, Is it repairable?
Does this affect the timing?? or amount of fuel??

Later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hallo joeblack5:

check your gmail account - i send 22 odd pages from the Inj.D manual - about some of these things you discuss

hope they help

for the boost - you will have a waste gate on this turbo - not sure when it engages - should ask for the guy who rebuilt - should have been thoroughly tested and documented results if done at turbo shoppe


I may have an answer for you in a few days on your other question - bit busy at present with some cancerous brake pipe that needs repair

hope the pages help

cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hi metric, Thks for the help.


My fuel boost pump did not take the cold start problem away.
I can see air bubbles go through the tubes so I hope that that is the problem. I will have to change some more tubing to clear to find where the bubbles are coming from.

Good luck with your brake line.

later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



Member
posted Hide Post
Hallo joeblack5:

have you checked your email - I sent 22 odd pages to you from the Renault Inj.D manual

do let me know how you progress on chasing this air leak - annoying eh ?
good luck
cheers:
 
Location: desert s.w. | Registered: November 24, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Member
posted Hide Post
Hi Metric,
somehow my replay did not get posted.

Yes , thank you for the pages, a great help.
How did you brake line do?

Annoying?, I am getting a little worried. I left the electric pump running to insure that no air could get trapped but car shows same starting problem. Since it has good power and little smoke it is hard to believe that i have a compression issue.
I will have to check the current to each glow plug to see if all of them are working.
The pages about the cold start wax cartridge was great. I pushed the lever by hand to the front of the engine and it sounds a lot smoother. I assume injection is delayed?

Again thanks for the pages, I received:
p1,2,3
p6
p16,17,18,19
p30,31
p41,42,43
p46,47,48

You mentioned that you had a bottom end tick?
Mine has a bottom and knock that worried me for a while but it turned out to be the vacuum pump.


Later


240D, 300TD, pwrstroke, niva diesel, 73 vette, DS20, 77XJS,
 
Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2 3 4 5  
 

Sponsors    Biodiesel and SVO Forums Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  Diesel vehicles and other diesel equipment  Hop To Forums  Miscellaneous vehicles and engines    Just purchased '86 Jeep Cherokee Diesel...need advice...

© Maui Green Energy 2000 - 2014