BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS





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6.6 Duramax
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LB7's are the ones with injector issues - though not all of them (keeping my fingers crossed.)
 
Registered: September 14, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am absolutely positive that the fuel is dry.

I'm wondering if insufficient fuel supply to the injectors could be harmful to them. There are two ways that my fuel system has misbehaved in ways that cause fuel supply to the injectors to be compromised:

1. clogged filter due to clouding. This is the most common issue.
2. loss of pressure (or is it vacuum) at the filter housing. The truck is in the shop right now waiting for a new filter mounting assembly because the old one will not hold pressure when you pump the primer. This assembly has spontaneously lost its prime in hot weather in the past. Until now, when this happened I could pump it up and start the truck.
But I'm wondering if it has been leaking for a long time at a low, chronic level. And I'm wondering if this, and/or the clogged filters from cloudy fuel could have contributed to the failure of 4 injectors in 87K miles.
I don't know enough about the injectors to know if this is a plausible explanation or not.
 
Location: San Luis Obispo County, California | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My mechanic assures me that insufficient fuel supply would not cause injector failure.
 
Location: San Luis Obispo County, California | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by PedroElGreaser:
LB7's are the ones with injector issues - though not all of them (keeping my fingers crossed.)


Yes you are correct... Big Grin

quote:
Originally posted by mwr:
I am absolutely positive that the fuel is dry.

I'm wondering if insufficient fuel supply to the injectors could be harmful to them. There are two ways that my fuel system has misbehaved in ways that cause fuel supply to the injectors to be compromised:

1. clogged filter due to clouding. This is the most common issue.
2. loss of pressure (or is it vacuum) at the filter housing. The truck is in the shop right now waiting for a new filter mounting assembly because the old one will not hold pressure when you pump the primer. This assembly has spontaneously lost its prime in hot weather in the past. Until now, when this happened I could pump it up and start the truck.
But I'm wondering if it has been leaking for a long time at a low, chronic level. And I'm wondering if this, and/or the clogged filters from cloudy fuel could have contributed to the failure of 4 injectors in 87K miles.
I don't know enough about the injectors to know if this is a plausible explanation or not.


I agree that there could have been a vacuum leak at the filter to housing interface (Gasket) but fuel starvation causing injector failure, I hardly doubt that. Water in fuel can blow the injector tip from extreme expansion of water vapor...So everyone that runs out of fuel will have injector failure. Come on... too much of a liability.
 
Location: Norse | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by duramadmax:
...
I agree that there could have been a vacuum leak at the filter to housing interface (Gasket) but fuel starvation causing injector failure, I hardly doubt that. Water in fuel can blow the injector tip from extreme expansion of water vapor...So everyone that runs out of fuel will have injector failure. Come on... too much of a liability.


I'm not sure I understand the point you are making here. The issue I'm dealing with right now is a failed filter mounting assembly. The dealership has ordered a replacement because the one on the truck will not hold vacuum pressure. Thus the engine will not run. It's not just a leaky gasket, and I have not run out of fuel. I also don't understand why running out of fuel would equate to water in the fuel, unless perhaps we are talking about humidity in the air that sucks into the engine when the tank runs dry.
I specifically asked my mechanic if fuel starvation could cause injector failure, and he said no. (I'm not sure how he knows this.)
 
Location: San Luis Obispo County, California | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The only possible way the filter base can leak (lose vacuum) is the o-ring seal from filter to base, o-ring on bleeder screw on top, water sensor on bottom of filter, or the inlet/outlet hoses/clamps..
 
Location: Norse | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I have asked them to save the parts so I can figure out what happened...but I have a friend who recently had a cracked housing. I should have it back within a day or two.
 
Location: San Luis Obispo County, California | Registered: August 04, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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kewl, I am curious what the exact reason is. Good luck... Wink
 
Location: Norse | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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mwr, did you get it back yet? what was it?


1985 300SD 326K no mods, his 59K on veg(since October 05)
01 Jetta TDI 251K stock, my sons 107k on veg(since august 06)
99 Suburban 6.5L 252K stock, 1,500k on veg(since sept 08)gone, tranny broke, 98 E300 TD 157K stock, hers,5K on blend of Dino and my mix,75% WVO, 25% stale RUG, AMSOIL cetane boost, AMSOIL diesel fuel modifier, pure gum turpentine, acetone
 
Location: Uncasville, CT | Registered: July 15, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hello everyone!
My name is Doug Smith and I live in Southern NH. It gets cold here. I bought a 6.6L LB7 this summer and I am experimenting with a B70 blend with Kerosene. So far so good. I did experience a problem with losing pressure in my filter. I believe I got that solved. One thing that comes to mind is if that gasket for the filter (or any of them for that matter) were rubber I can explain the trouble easily. Biodiesel is corrosive (violently) with rubber and will in it's pure (B100) form degrade rubber in a matter of days. This should not be an issue with the newer filters, but if you are buying inferior Chinese knock offs who knows. Wix 33910 is what I use and I do not feel the fuel is the issue. I previously drove a 7.3L on the Biodiesel and it was very forgiving.

As for your injectors it is not uncommon for the injectors to fail multiple times in the older trucks. This is why Chevy warranties the injectors for 7 years or 200,000 miles on all of the LB7's except the 03 and 04 which may get added soon. Make sure the dealer installs 3rd generation injectors and not the (rotating) older stock prone to failure.

I make my own Biodiesel and have for many years now so I can tell you with a very high degree of confidence that it is most likely not the fuel. One Caveot is that Biodiesel will clean the sludge left by petroleum diesel and it will clean it out quickly. If you are using an inferior filter it is possible that some of the sludge got through and damaged your injectors.

On another note. It is also possible that the dealer is just trying to rip you off and telling you that because of the Biodiesel your injectors are bad so he can get payment right away and not have to wait for Chevy to pay him. The burden of proof is on the manufacturer and their representatives (the dealer) to prove beyond a doubt that the fuel caused the problem before they can legally refuse the work under warranty. They will all try to take advantage of our ignorance so beware.

Well I had a lot to say didn't I. I hope this helps and I will let you all know how my research on B70 with Kero goes.

BTW, if you can afford to add the second tank and the extra cost to heat the tank with coolant then you are better off and will be able to run all winter on B100. This does assume you can heat it when the engine is not running (i.e. a coolant heater better than the standard block heater).


Amazing how something so simple can be so easily overlooked.
 
Registered: October 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Quote:

quote:
Originally posted by duramadmax:
I agree that there could have been a vacuum leak at the filter to housing interface (Gasket) but fuel starvation causing injector failure, I hardly doubt that. Water in fuel can blow the injector tip from extreme expansion of water vapor...So everyone that runs out of fuel will have injector failure. Come on... too much of a liability.



You have touched on a subject that I am experiencing right now. I can pump my primer and get more fuel in the filter occassionally and before I do this I get hesitation under medium to hard acceleration. I prime the filter again and it goes away for a bit then returns. I wrenched the filter again yesterday and today all seems fine. I will repost if it happens again if not repost assume I fixed it.


Amazing how something so simple can be so easily overlooked.
 
Registered: October 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by duramadmax:
The only possible way the filter base can leak (lose vacuum) is the o-ring seal from filter to base, o-ring on bleeder screw on top, water sensor on bottom of filter, or the inlet/outlet hoses/clamps..


You know my bleeder screw on top is plastic and has no o-ring. Confused


Amazing how something so simple can be so easily overlooked.
 
Registered: October 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Yes it is plastic and has a o-ring uner it since the threads don't just seal. I believe the o-ring is purple in color but I am may be wrong.
 
Location: Norse | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by duramadmax:
Yes it is plastic and has a o-ring uner it since the threads don't just seal. I believe the o-ring is purple in color but I am may be wrong.


Now I am curious. I will have to look next time I replace the filter. I did not open it all the way this time so I did not get a chance to look. Just assumed since it was plastic it did not. Should I open the bleeder when I am priming? I tried and it did not seem to work. Maybe I should exercise more patients (but I am not a doctor so I have no patients Smile Big Grin Cool).


Amazing how something so simple can be so easily overlooked.
 
Registered: October 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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yes you do. In order to prime the filter to void the excess air, you need to open bleeder, pump say 10-30 times and the once fuel seeps out, close bleeder. otherwise air is in the filter still and can be a performance and starting issue.
 
Location: Norse | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by duramadmax:
Well I understand your concern. The ole' lly motors had injector issues. Lb7's and LBZ's they were corrected. So fuel could be an issue but most of the fuel systems today are resistant to such chemicals and additives. However, if the fuel is DRY, converted and DRY...it should be fine.



The first generation of 6.6 is the LB7 and was used until 03 then they introduced the LBZ for 04-05 and in 06 -07 there was the LLY, then in 08 they introduced the LMM. I might actually have the LBZ and LLY reversed. But I know that the LB7 was first and I have one in my 02. It is the engine that had all the injector issues. Mine were replaced just before I bought it with 3rd generation injectors so I should never have a problem. My fuel is spray dried for anywhere from 8-24 hours. I do not heat my Biodiesel to dry it as it will not really be dry when it first looks dry under heating. I also believe it takes less energy to dry longer at room temp then to heat and dry. One other note, you will notice your humidity jump when you are drying.

I believe most of my issues stem from me not having replaced a filter before so I probably made some mistakes. I liked the 7.3L Ford's fuel filter placement. It was easy to replace, but I always wondered what happens when you swap the filter as the dirty side and the clean side are in direct contact with each other while you replace the filter.

Also, I should note that I use strictly Canola based WVO to convert for truck fuel in the winter as it will not gell until well below 20 degrees. I ran my 7.3L last winter into December (then ran out of Biodiesel and was moving) without any issues. No blending just straight B100. Well I am not going to try that with my 6.6 as I know they are a lot more finiky than that 7.3 and much peppier.

I am glad that we have this forum here to discuss this also, but I feel there should be an actual 6.6 forum or this one renamed to Chevy Diesels.


Amazing how something so simple can be so easily overlooked.
 
Registered: October 25, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi yall, Joined a few weeks ago, first post. I have an 02 lb7 long bed w/banks system. Yes we have injector issues. My buddy has an 03 with banks and butt load of other stuff. My other bio partner has a 03 7.3 l expedition (need ear plugs w/ that thing, lol). Have made several 40-50 gal batches and haverun ~b50 or less a few times. Well we are going for it. we just got a 750 gal steel cone bottom kerosene tank and are in the process of accumulating the parts to get it going. Also have a bunch of other tanks for wvo storage. We have 600 gals of wvo thats been settling for weeks now. Here in st.pete fl we got lots of wvo, as long as you can handle 8-20 mls of KOH, lol...

I am hoping more people post on here. Seems like most threads ive read get going and then simply stop. ??????????


Im not sure of the etique aaround here so I will limit my posting in this section to just my experience with my duramax. Which the lb7/banks is by far the best engine performace wise. Cant wait to start using b100-----all the time... Then nitromethane!!!!!!


02 duramax, bio since 04/08
 
Location: St Pete Florida | Registered: December 29, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by Hootep:
Hi yall, Joined a few weeks ago, first post. I have an 02 lb7 long bed w/banks system. Yes we have injector issues. My buddy has an 03 with banks and butt load of other stuff. My other bio partner has a 03 7.3 l expedition (need ear plugs w/ that thing, lol). Have made several 40-50 gal batches and haverun ~b50 or less a few times. Well we are going for it. we just got a 750 gal steel cone bottom kerosene tank and are in the process of accumulating the parts to get it going. Also have a bunch of other tanks for wvo storage. We have 600 gals of wvo thats been settling for weeks now. Here in st.pete fl we got lots of wvo, as long as you can handle 8-20 mls of KOH, lol...

I am hoping more people post on here. Seems like most threads ive read get going and then simply stop. ??????????


Im not sure of the etique aaround here so I will limit my posting in this section to just my experience with my duramax. Which the lb7/banks is by far the best engine performace wise. Cant wait to start using b100-----all the time... Then nitromethane!!!!!!


I am in Land O Lakes and have an 03 duramax. Looking into producing and running B100, would like to know what your experience has been so far.
 
Location: Land O Lakes | Registered: May 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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03 Duramax. Doing Eng Oil Analysis and compression tests regularly to monitor performance. Went from PD to B50 at about 60k. Noted increased fuel economy by abut 10
%, which is interesting. Also noted an increase in compression, perhaps due to lubricity? Initial engine oil analysis looked good, 500 miles of B50, no change. Will repeat the OAP and the compression at about 2500 miles and post. If all looks good at 2500 miles, plan to do B75 for another and recheck. So far, so good!


Duramax Driver
03 duramax
06 Lib CRD
 
Location: Maryland | Registered: May 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm waiting for my bp190 to come. I was wondering what intervals I should change filters. Should it miles or time. And how frequent. Anybody have a link to a great deal on factory filters since I would buy bulk discount.


03 duramax for now, 10 year TDR member 96 2500,98 3500,2004.5 3500 all Cummins power, bio pro 190
 
Registered: January 28, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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