BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS




You can search the Forum Archives HERE
Sponsors    Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  6.6 Duramax    Fuel Filter

Moderators: Shaun, The Trouts
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
-star Rating Rate It!  Login/Join 
Member
Posted
I don't know the rules here; I'm planning to become a "dealer" for a company that has been manufacturing billet aluminum filters with surgical stainless steel filter elements. These are direct replacements for your oil and Allison spin-on filters. They are currently introducing a similar type fuel filter. In all cases, you simply remove the filter, disassemble it (by hand - no tools required) and wash the filter core in hot soapy water. Is anyone interested in this? For the 6.6 Duramax, the oil filter is about $300, trans about $200, I would guess the fuel filter will be in the $300 range. I listened to the company owner's 3500 idling and there is NO knock or rattle; he says this is due to removing all the air from the fuel. Also, he claims that he gets an extra mpg now. I have the oil and trans filters on my '08 2500, and the trans consistently runs at least 5 degrees cooler and feels like a shift kit was installed. Any interest?
 
Location: Southern California | Registered: 28 October 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
You didn't mention the manufacturer.

System 1 oil and fuel filters have been on the market for some time.

http://www.system1filters.com/
http://www.system1filters.com/oil_filters.htm
http://www.system1filters.com/fuel_filters.htm
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/system_1_oil_filter.htm

It looks like you're looking at $160 to $170 for the oil filters, and $100 to $120 for the fuel filters.

30, 45, and 75 micron filters (75 microns sounds a bit large, 30 sounds more "reasonable", although the paper cartridge filters are generally rated to do a bit better).

The fuel filter canisters are big... and apparently popular in the racing circuits that want LOTS of fuel with little flow resistance.

Personally, I'm not convinced that the "billet" style filters would be very convenient.

The "Remote Mounts" for canister filters look nice, but a bit expensive.

For automotive oil filtering.. tearing these apart and cleaning sounds like a messy job. Perhaps less messy for fuel filtering, and, of course, it would allow roadside cleaning.

However,
As soon as I get to WVO&BD system building, I'm planning on adding one of the filters to my system to try it out, and we'll see how long my fuel filters last.
 
Location: Oregon | Registered: 17 October 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
The 'rules" I'm not sure about are whether I'm allowed to mention the manufacturer. I didn't mention it, but I believe the filter elements are rated at 5 microns. I don't understand the rest of your comments; these are direct replacements for the OEM filters. Where does the convenience issue come into play? You have to remove either type.
 
Location: Southern California | Registered: 28 October 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
I use Donaldson fuel filters and Purolator Pure 1 oil filters, both are top-of-the-line, and changing both annually costs about $15. A forty year savings payback for washable filters with nowhere near the filter media quality just doesn't make sense.

Best of luck with your entrepreneurial endeavor.


--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.--

'89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE
BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends
 
Location: North of 60° | Registered: 03 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
quote:
I listened to the company owner's 3500 idling and there is NO knock or rattle; he says this is due to removing all the air from the fuel. Also, he claims that he gets an extra mpg now.


That is hard to believe. Air in the fuel? now now.....

Our fuel filters are 2 micron dual pleat models. Very effecient and to recoup savings would take some time. Plus I want NO water near my fuel or trans filters. We are human and make mistakes. Less human interaction... the better. Sorry..I like my factory jobs...
 
Location: Norse | Registered: 22 March 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Your fuel rail is running at over 20,000 psi. You don't think there's any air in the fuel? Who said anything about adding water to anything?

And the guy who only changes his filters once a year ... why bother making biodiesel if you only drive 1,000 a month?

Well: I found out what I wanted. No interest here.
 
Location: Southern California | Registered: 28 October 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Maybe check out this place

It's a Duramax site
 
Location: NJ | Registered: 29 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
UFO
Member
Posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sailor645:
Your fuel rail is running at over 20,000 psi. You don't think there's any air in the fuel? Who said anything about adding water to anything?

And the guy who only changes his filters once a year ... why bother making biodiesel if you only drive 1,000 a month?

Well: I found out what I wanted. No interest here.
You mentioned washing filter elements using soap and water. So you are down while you wait for the element to dry, or risk getting water in your fuel.


'05 CRD B100
'01 TDi B100
'83 240D B100

 
Location: Colorado | Registered: 20 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
As someone has already stated that you use water in cleaning the filter,there is even on a microscopic level there is water,air, sulphur, and even contaminants..Diesel knock is from fuel properties and not air....sorry..
 
Location: Norse | Registered: 22 March 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Oh, for Pete's sake ... How long does it take STAINLESS STEEl to dry??? How do you explain that the manufacturer's 3500 DOESN't knock any more?

I know I'm done with this post ... the moderators are free to remove it.
 
Location: Southern California | Registered: 28 October 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Member
Posted Hide Post
Three is a classified section of this website...
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/cfrm/f/109605551

And, I haven't seen any significant complaints about mentioning new and unique technologies, as long as it is pertinent and not overdone. I.E. Don't repeatedly plug the same product. Or, you can comment on your own product when others bring it up, but otherwise just quietly add a link in your signature.

However details are important.

And, if your filters are twice as expensive as the competitor's filters, then you need to explain why yours are twice as good as the competitor's filters.

And, filtration efficiency would be part of the explanation.

If your filters have single pass 5 micron filtering, and the competitor has a 30 micron filter, that is important, but it needs to be confirmed rather than qualifying it by "but I believe... 5 microns".

Certainly on a website like this, there could be two potential markets for the filters.

PRODUCTION of biofuels.
Vehicles that run biofuels.

Each potential market is slightly different, but there is some overlap too.

My comment about canister vs inline... certainly it is dependent on what the OEM filter is like, and the frequency of changing it.

If, for example, one chose to use the stainless filter for raw Waste Oil Filtering, then it is likely that it will need lots of cleaning/changing, so then convenience might be an important factor.

Adding brand links allows one to do better comparisons. But, it also opens you up to global competition. And, of course, keeps you HONEST.
 
Location: Oregon | Registered: 17 October 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
  Powered by Eve Community  
 

Sponsors    Home    Forums  Hop To Forum Categories  6.6 Duramax    Fuel Filter

© Maui Green Energy 2000 - 2009