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Just had a Wood Chip fire
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Hi Joe,

Is that a plastic drum liner in the top picture?

I'd love to hear how it works out for you. I was under the assumption that you needed a Tee on the bottom, with pipes filled with holes and covered with screen in order to increase the opening size. I'm guessing that the opening size is related to the maximum flow rate.

Rick
 
Location: Cowboy Country | Registered: December 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Rick, No, that's just the plastic drum. I made a shallow cone shape out of perforated metal to allow the BD to spread out in the bottom of the drum. It then will come up through the chips and out one of the bungs on the lid. Waddaya think? Smile


Blessings. Joe 1999 Chevy Suburban w/new optimizer 6500 TD and 1995 Chevy Cube van 6.5L. WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
 
Location: Sterling Hts. Michigan USA | Registered: October 18, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Joe_M:
Rick, No, that's just the plastic drum. I made a shallow cone shape out of perforated metal to allow the BD to spread out in the bottom of the drum. It then will come up through the chips and out one of the bungs on the lid. Waddaya think? Smile


Sounds Good! Got a picture?

Rick
 
Location: Cowboy Country | Registered: December 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Joe M. and Legal,

Does it matter if you fill from the bottom or top? Lets call them "Top Fill" and "Bottom Fill" I am under the impression from Legal's explanation of fuel filters, he has been using "Top Fill" and collecting at the bottom (and then out from the center tube back at the top.) Here is a diagram with that layout I just built and also uses "Top Fill". However, it looks like from Joe M's description, he is designing the opposite. Are there any advantages of one over the other?


Doug



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Location: Los Angeles | Registered: March 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The design you are showing here is the way my two resin tanks work. Load from the top but then it has to filter down through the media before it can follow the path of least resistance and go up the center tube, a reverse flow if you will.

The wood chip drum I have uses a straight load from the top and outlet by the bottom design. The flow is then sent up to the resin tanks from the bottom of the chip drum and does its thing there, it is finished by a 2 micron CAT fuel filter can.

The principle idea is to give maximum residence time to the biodiesel in the media so it can do its job. The only variable is flow rate; the more media you have, as in multiple drums/tanks, the greater you can increase the flow rate (to a point).

In your design you can see that the biodiesel will get plenty of residence time as it has to travel down through the media and then up the center pipe before exiting, so that is what you are looking for. Be sure to place a screen over the end of the center tube's pick up point or media will migrate. I prefer a 70 mesh stainless steel screen cross woven as it is very unlikely to deteriorate over time.

HTH



** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.


 
Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: December 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Great. I am out in the yard finishing regenerating the Thermax. Since I don't have a pump good for methanol, I just put the thermax in buckets and soaked them in methanol overnight. Just re-reinsed them till methanol was clear. Now airing it out. Hopefully this filter change will last me another 12-18 months.
 
Location: Los Angeles | Registered: March 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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if you do a good demething of the biodiesel after it has settled out the glycerin layer and then stick a drum of hard wood chips in front of the resin it will most definitely last you a much longer time than if you didn't have the wood chips/sawdust.

To give you an example; RolfQuo (see interview in sig links) pioneered wood chip use in commercial production after people like Jehu ( on this forum) had shown it to be a viable method. The way it was done initially is 4 drums of wood chips ONLY, no other nothing. And with the chips they were hitting ASTM grade (they have a lab) consistently. It wasn't until this last year that they added a drum of Purolite PD206 resin after the chips as a redundancy. They have now run over 1/2 million liters of biodiesel through their set up and have yet to see the need to swap out the chips. Mind you theirs uses 2 sets of 4 drum each and one drum of resin per set of 4 wood chip drums, but as I said the resin wasn't until last year. Soaps would start around 1,000ppm and would come out ZEROppm and the same is STILL true today. I asked, but don't remember the answer as to what the soaps count was after the chips and before the resin after having run so much fuel through them.

What this shows is that for a home based biodiesel producer like what most of here are, a well prepared drum of hard wood chips or sawdust could conceivably last at least a few years before needing a swap out. but just like anything, the more you ask it to work the quicker it will wear out; the same is true of chips and/or resins. The key is both good settling out of the glycerin and also good demething of the biodiesel after the glycerin has been removed, giving time for the soaps to drop out of solution.

What we are doing with wood chips/sawdust is essentially speeding up the GL Eco-System process. Where Graham demeths and then relies on time to allow the soaps to drop out of solution we push that procedure by using wood chips/sawdust to get the residual left over soaps. Time alone has been shown to do it effectively (couple weeks or so) but most people either don't have that much time or aren't patient enough to allow for it, so along comes wood chips followed by resin to "get'er done".

HTH



** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.


 
Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: December 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hello Legal,

I've been chip filtering for over a year now with success but would like to add in a resin column for the final polishing. I've been looking for a water softener tank used but have not been able to find one. Might you suggest the best place to buy one? What tank material works best? And, was the tank lid the one that came with the tank or did you buy one specialized for the purpose?

btw, my chip set up is two PVC columns(based on Houston Biodiesel plans), 60" high x 4"ID, that feed from the bottom up in a lead lag config using aspen chips. I would add a single resin column (perhaps a ~60" tank) in line with the chips filters.

Fire! The chips stay immersed in BD and are sealed within the columns from the outside air so I think i'm safe from fire...I hope. That fire story is scary!!

Thanks!


Dana Knight "dckfly"
Boulder, CO

Chevy Silverado Duramax
3 VW TDI (wife and friends)
 
Location: Boulder, CO | Registered: May 13, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
And with the chips they were hitting ASTM grade (they have a lab) consistently. It wasn't until this last year that they added a drum of Purolite PD206 resin after the chips as a redundancy.

What is Purolite PD206 resin supposed to take out or polish out of the fuel?
If its already been shown to pass ASTM testing without it, I fail to see the need/hassle to use it.
I guess the question should be, Is RolfQuo seeing anything different in their ASTM testing after adding the resin to the output?
Cheers,
Jon
 
Location: Wellington County, Ontario Canada | Registered: February 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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